[r-man]

Had a lovely Sunday at Wharncliffe and did what I think are three new problems. A couple are probably just fillers, albeit good fun, but the pick of the bunch was the wall left of Pixie's Arete, with an excellent crux lockoff to a tiny edge in a small seam a metre up from good crimps. This is followed by satisfying rockover to the finishing holds:

Sneaky Little Fingers, 7a
The wall left of Pixie Arete, Outlook Area

Here's Smooth on the crux:


Also, the wall left of that corner was good:

Slab and the Beanstalk, 6a+
Climb the vanishing crack and finish up the slab. A tight line left of the corner crack.


For anyone who hasn't been, Outlook Area offers a good mini circuit. Walk across the top of the crag from the Dragon's Den end and after 5min two boulders appear on your left, both boasting sizeable roofs. Outlook Roof is especially good, and amazingly only 6a (ish).

---

In the Lodge Buttress area, I climbed the left arete of Fishboy, using all sorts of foot-based cunning to avoid the swing dab on the boulder to the left. Silly, but fun:

Sushi, 6b+
Start matched on the flat crimp for full value.


There must be tons of other stuff at Wharncliffe. Anyone tried exploring further down the edge? Bonjoy? It seems to go on for miles...

[Bonjoy]

Nice, another one for the list.
Yeah, there is a fair bit of potential between the Lodge and the popular end of the crag. The boulders under Belle Vue are pretty good and the Upper Tier has had a few things done by Zaf, Iain Farrar, Kim T and myself. I really need to go back there, re-check stuff and see what's left. I have scoured pretty much the whole crag and saw a fair bit of stuff that I never got round to trying. It takes a degree of dedication to do new stuff though as the walk to climb ratio is quite arduous and a lot of likely looking boulders (most) turn out to be unsuitable.

[monkey boy]

Nice one robin but you do know you have to climb the problem to claim to have done it?! (refering to the video of sneaky little fingers!) 

Cool picture of smooth on it!

[Fiend]

Outlook Roof is especially good, and amazingly only 6a (ish).

You're not wrong, a quality problem.

Sneaky Little Fingers looks pretty good. Slab And The Beanstalk looks disgraceful, is it possible to get more eliminate?

[r-man]

Nice one robin but you do know you have to climb the problem to claim to have done it?! (refering to the video of sneaky little fingers!) 

Cool picture of smooth on it!

Photo credit to Dan Arkle. That's not me in the video of course, but I thought it was worth showing the crux move, even if I don't have footage of anyone getting up it. The edge you reach for is almost impossible to hit it at speed, so you have to balance, lock, and slowly sneak your fingers up to it...

Slab And The Beanstalk looks disgraceful, is it possible to get more eliminate?

It's a shame the line leads you up the right, as the moves are decent. It's a tight line, though, rather than actually an eliminate. I assume you don't want a list in response to your question?

[Bonjoy]

 What did you get done of the existing stuff up there R-man? Lembas is good and not too bad with a few pads, Kim Span needs a repeat from someone smaller than Kim, but the lower wall from SS is worthwhile in itself and the steep little sitter on the lower boulders is quite good from what I remember.

[r-man]

Not too much, it was near the end of the day and we ran out of daylight and skin. Next time I might head up there first, instead of the usual pottering at Dragon's Den. Did the lower wall of Kim Span but didn't try the roof. Lembas looked ace, but scary. Pete's Roof got done - spotting on that was a worry. Keen to go back!

At the other end we did Dragonslayer - thought that was really good - smart horizontal fridge-hugging to a nice pinch crossover move. Couldn't figure out Curvaceous - right toe on smear, rock up, then slap? Which hand? Felt hard, but a bit warm. Crazy Legs Crane looked too slopey to try in the sun, but I'll be back for it.

[Bonjoy]

Go with left hand on Curvaceous

[Resonate]

put my vid up you bastard...

the non-lie-down-start to sushi


don't tell me my bald-spot over-exposed the video or i'll punch you/cry in solitude (whichever's more convenient)

[r-man]

Here you go you bastard

[Resonate]

thanks (you bastard)