[Ged]

I've heard it's been a really dry winter in Catalunya, so hoping to get up to Rodellar in early March (off to Terredettes first), in the hope of finding it bone dry and in brilliant nick (optimistic?). 

I'm guessing the campsites are closed in early march, so do people just generally wild camp that time of year, or is there a rifugio or something? guessing the nights are pretty cold that time of year.

Cheers

Ged

[Bonjoy]

El Puenta just outside the village should be open and do discounts for climbers, phone and ask as they you should get a considerably cheaper tariff as an off season climber than those listed on the website. http://www.campingelpuente.com/index_en.htm
There is also a refugio in the village which is open all year round, I forget the name now.
Terradets also has a refugio near the crag.
Both should be brilliant in March if the dry weather holds

[Ged]

cheers for that, didnt think it would be too much fun dossing there in march.  WHats the rifugio like?  And is Rodellar indeed the best place in the world?

[Bonjoy]

 Have only been to the bar at the refugio. this was a nice friendly place run by climber for climbers, probably the best bet of an evening in Rodellar. No idea what the digs are like.
 If you like very long, very steep sport climbing then Rodellar may be the best crag in the world. It's certainly my favourite sport crag. So good I stayed there for two months last year infact.

[Ged]

cheers for that.  any good pics of the place anywhere to while away my last few days at work?

[Bonjoy]

To quote myself from a previous thread:

Some info on Rodellar here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4236.0.html . I went there for two months last year and for me it is easily my favourite sport climbing area. There are some pics from that trip here http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=27746&id=722433792

This is one of the main sectors - The Gran Boveda, it varies from 20-35m and has loads of super classic steep tufa routes, mostly in the 7b-8b+ range.


If you like really long, really steep routes, on mostly big holds sector Surgencia is unsurpassable. Here's a pic of the classic 40m 8a El Corridor De La Muerta:


 Rodellar may well be in great nick at the end of Feb, but it probably more prone to seepage than the other crags mentioned and the best sectors are more shady. If the worst comes to the worst there are still a couple of weeks worth of routes which never get wet. For non-tent accomodation the El Puente campsite just outside the village has chalets and apartments and does off season discounts for climbers.

 Terradets has a good cheap refugio very near the crag and a mid priced hotel a little further north. Montgrony has a refugio in a very beautiful old monastic sanctuary building, right beneath the crag. There is a downloadable topo for Montgrony on Rockfax.com
Here's a pic of a 7a+ at Montgrony:

That campsite website also has some good shots

[Ged]

another question:  the rifugio at Terredettes, is it worth trying to book some beds? anyone know of a phone number or an email?

ta

[Bonjoy]

It wasn't busy when I was there but it would still be worth booking ahead. I know it shuts for a period midwinter, but I think it should be open by March.

[Ged]

Just back from Catalunya.  It has indeed been a really dry winter, and all crags are bone dry, Rodellar included. 

We spent 1 week at Montgrony, which is absolutely superb.  There's a new book available from the Rifugi, and stacks to do up to 8a+.  Well worth a trip; quiet and awesome routes.  Here's some pics...

http://www.malhamba.com/photos/added/europe/Spain/Catalunya/?s1=2&s2=178&s3=201&s4=403&cs=s4

and an article...

http://www.malhamba.com/articles/montgrony

We were going to head to Rodellar after that, but some freak cold weather came in, so we headed to Terradets, where it was snowing!  Great crag though, especially if you're after a quick hit to get fit.  Some pics here...

http://www.malhamba.com/photos/added/europe/Spain/Catalunya/montgrony/?s1=2&s2=178&s3=201&s4=458&cs=s4

Cheers

Ged

[Bonjoy]

Good little article.
I would dispute the recomendations on months to visit. I spoke to some locals and with it being in full sun they reckon it's too hot to climb there outside of winter. I wouldn't go any time outside Nov-mid-March personally.

[Ged]

Yes fair point (i wrote that article a couple of years ago).  We had one day when the sun was out and it was nearly too hot, and the locals seemed to think it was nearing the end of the season.  But Toti, the bloke who runs the rifugi, seems to think summer is good, as the sun is so high in the sky that you get a lot of shade.