[Percy B]

Well, its probably new seeing as nobody else is stupid enough to try it, but I kinda got obsessed with it 'cos I ran out of stuff to do there.
The big block forming the opposite side of the corridor containing Gorilla Warfare/Hurricane/Early Doors. Start in the middle of the wall and gain the obvious ledge, then traverse right to finish up the right arete on its left hand side. Little if any new climbing, but a very hard and morpho move on small crimps to get across the wall. Took me a while, but I am a T-Rex in the arm department. The tall might find it easier - the short might get reamed. For me, I thought 7c-ish, but what's in a grade. The crimps in question are very small, but very 'positive' - watch that skin! I'm calling it Baby-belle.

[north_country_boy]

Is teh wall direct above ledge still a project? Any toutings of grade?? 

[dave]

This has been done before Percy (not sure by whom), I think kanye'd been shown it by someone and thus showed me it a few weeks ago. I had a tickle, seemed ok but for that massive move in the middle.

[Percy B]

Direct hasn't been done - not really any holds....
If its been done before, fair enough, although I wasn't aware it had. I know that some westies had been trying to foot traverse the ledge with their hands undercutting the overlap but this ain't bouldering - it's madness!

[neil h]

I did said problem about 4 years ago, but didnt finish on going up arete, just jumped off, thought around 7b, but have long arms

[neil h]

forgot to add, some rando, guy i had never met before actually showed me the problem, He did thre and then to show me

[Percy B]

Well, it's a new problem to me anyway, whoever done it first!

[Sloper]

forgot to add, some rando, guy i had never met before actually showed me the problem, He did thre and then to show me

Neil I've just noticed you avatar looks very much like you complaining that your four course cordon bleu meal has taken more than 10 minutes to prepare and cook.

Will see you at Easter for a beer.

[neil h]

Well, it's a new problem to me anyway, whoever done it first!

There is no problem with me, the way I see it you have done a new link up, so cool

[Jacqusie]

I did said problem about 4 years ago, but didnt finish on going up arete, just jumped off,

Jumping off ain't doing it Onki!

 

[neil h]

I did said problem about 4 years ago, but didnt finish on going up arete, just jumped off,

Jumping off ain't doing it Onki!

 

shut up, least I can climb harder than V1

[Jacqusie]

shut up, least I can climb harder than V1







..Funny Man

 - whats the local talent like out there anyway? - have you managed to find Keith a Granny with her own teeth yet then??

 

[neil h]

Sure it wasnt your fantasy, Im sure you had an old granny with no teeth and a beard


 

[Idol eyes]

Oh dear,,,

[Bonjoy]

Does Baby-belle start off the boulder (easy reach) or off the ground (hard slap)??

[dave]

from the floor you can french start to that jug, or theres a pull-on problem using a little queer shaped hold and a crimp out right, pull on and windmill over for the jug, probably about 7b, although since some morons insist on moving the blocks around its probaby got a paraplegia landing at the moment cos if you miss you bail off leftward. Theres also a 7a-7bish problem using the aforementioned crimp hold for left hand and another edge, pull on, pull to a crystally backhand then up to a good hold on that traverse. again easier with a frenchstart. i've not done either but have had a tickle, they do exist.

[Percy B]

I started off the block that is currently underneath and used the good layaway to pop for the jug. The current location of the block makes laying one on from the deck a bit risky, although I've started the problem off the floor too. Basically the problem starts from the jug, so its not so crucial how you get there - I guess the current position of the block will dictate. There are several variations of ways of using the collection of poor holds on that bottom wall to gain the ledge - none are particularly good though...
The meat of BabyBelle is the gruesome rockover on the minging crimps where the ledge tapers out to gain the edges on the arete. For the start - however you get to the jug adds nothing to the overall problem though. Either use the block or a french start will do, I reckon.

[r-man]

from the floor you can french start to that jug, or theres a pull-on problem using a little queer shaped hold and a crimp out right, pull on and windmill over for the jug, probably about 7b, although since some morons insist on moving the blocks around its probaby got a paraplegia landing at the moment cos if you miss you bail off leftward.

Yeah, this is a worthy one mover, and 7b seemed about right. Not that I managed to stick it. Tried it recently, and the block to the left didn't seem too much of a problem.