[Percy B]

Sorry to use this forum to remind people of the date for the PowerBar bouldering league at The Edge in Sheffield, but our website is busted, and more people who want to know when the comps are will look at this site!
Round 1 - Friday 8th November, with 20 problems set by me and guest route setter, Sir Ronald of Fawcett! You can ring me at The Edge on 0114 2758899 if you want info or abuse - I'm happy to provide either. Obviously the problems will be of the usual standard, and for the first round competitors will have the added bonus of Rob Gawthorpe being in Egypt, so he won't be able to set his usual wierd creations. My groin strain
has only just healed from last years infamous bridging enigma :? ! Its a 'skin diver' (£5) to enter, which is cheaper than the cost in petrol to travel to you're favourite bouldering areas, and it won't be dark or wet when you arrive! Can't say fairer than that.

By the way, Mike has already put on a bit about the Lost Arrow Masters Comp. which will take place next year. Just to keep you posted, 30% of the places are already filled (!), with some scarily strong teams entered. Look at the relevant thread if you want to get a team together. You'll be cranking alongside some of the best boulderers in the world, including the likes of Moon, Dunne, Smith, Earl, Parry, Creamer, the list goes on and on..........

[dave]

Nice one Perc! Last time i entered one of these was 2000, is there still 2 sessions going? also how busy do they get, cos i remember people falling ontop of other people etc etc it was pretty hairy. I guess you've got the woody to spread em out now though....

Yo Mike, what about getting a strong ukb team entered in the team comp? Get some fly company to sponsor the entrance fee, and hey presto. I'll volunteer my bouldering services if thats any consolation.

[percy B]

Still two sessions, one starting at 1630, and the later one starting at 1900. You get 2 hours to dispatch as many of the 20 problems as you can. As far as congestion goes, some of the problems are set in the Woodie so its far less busy than it used to be. Nobody got squashed last year, so hopefully this trend will continue! Grades range from V0 to V10. As we all know, 'its impossible to set anything harder than V10 indoors' (Old route-setters proverb)! :twisted:

[Bubba]

Sorry to use this forum to remind people of the date for the PowerBar bouldering league at The Edge in Sheffield, but our website is busted, and more people who want to know when the comps are will look at this site!

That's ok Percy - no bother at all  

[Bubba]

Yo Mike, what about getting a strong ukb team entered in the team comp? Get some fly company to sponsor the entrance fee, and hey presto. I'll volunteer my bouldering services if thats any consolation.

Not a bad idea there Dave - Now I'm not really good enough for comps but you and James, fatboyslimfast, and ??? How many form a team?

I'm quite happy to video proceedings - will there be some choons needed spinning like last time I wonder?

[underground]

Hey Percy, this is the Friday evening league I presume? Maybe you can drop me an email through the forum about the Lost Arrow, and in particular the finest funk DJ's setting fire to the dancefloor at the after comp party...... It would be wicked to do it again....

You know who i am dude  :wink:

[dave]

Not a bad idea there Dave - Now I'm not really good enough for comps but you and James, fatboyslimfast, and ??? How many form a team

6, 2 of which have to be honeyz. I;m afrain ukb will have to supply the climbing hos.

[Bubba]

I'll sort me bitch out tonight.... she's never really climbed before like, but she'll sure look damn good in that thong she'll have to wear.

oh shit, if she ever reads this I'm dead!

[Percy]

Can't get the email thingy to work, due to my technical incompetance (commonly on display when climbing too!) Of course you can come an play some of your records, young James. It wouldn't be the same without you. The party is on the evening of Saturday 1st March, and is a sponsored event! I will attempt to pay you as we did last time - a pint a track until comatose! Obviously, for everybody else, you can only come to the party if you've let me abuse you with horrific problems during the day or you bribe me with beer.  :D

[dobbin]

I really liked your problems at the Edge Percy, good style and dope moves. Almost makes up for having a dodgy barnet   I jest of course!

[dave]

:!: Bump :!:

So who's doing the comp tomorrow nite? I thought I'd give it a go, with a couple of mates - should be a good laugh.  Anyone else going???

Also does the evening session start at 1900 or 1930?? :?:  I've heard differing reports.....

[Percy B]

Evening session starts at 1900. I've already set a few of the problems and I'm prepared to bet a jam tart that nobody will flash them all, so come on down and bring you're strongest set of shoulders - you'll need them! :twisted:

[dobbin]

I'm coming - what are the standard of the problems? I mean, will i be able to do any of them? I want that Jam Tart!

[dave]

Nice on Perc - problems were pretty good, some nice slopey stuff there. I'm now looking forward to the rest of the rounds.

So didn't anyone else here go? what did you recon? I found as usual i could either flash a problem, or not do it at all, not really much middle ground!

Did anyone get up #20 Perc? and are the results appearing on t'internet anywhere?

[dobbin]

I did! it was class! the problems where brilliant! the usual formula for bouldering comps is that if you can crimp, or better still hang a crimp on one arm then you'll clean up - not so! well set, good climbing - excellent.

Re Problem 20, i got to the bonus hold on the flash and couldn't improve on that in any subsequent goes. That other one to its left the one where you got the slopey nose thing and had to mantle it for the slug - that was hard n'all.

My only criticism (and its more of an excuse) is that i didn't know there were any problems in the woodie and ended up doing them last and I think i could have ticked them had I done them fresh. But still, only really went to have a buzz and see who turned up - a good night had by all.

I got 140. Like you Dave, I flashed 14 and didn't do anything I didn't flash.

[dave]

I didn't think there was anything in the steep-power-crimp-yanking style that i favour (which was a shame!), thus i only got a measly 126. There were a couple of problems which i had one abortive go at, failed, then later on after the time limit i got it easily. I recon i can improve on 126 in the next rounds, as i'm out of practice at comps.

#19 was a strange one - piss but tiring up to 2 moves from the end, then it got silly. Still i got a bonus on the flash there..... can't complain.

The next round is a week after i return from Font, so I should be shit-hot on slopers by then!

[dobbin]

which one was 19 fella? and what do you look like???

[dave]

#19 was the red taped one at the far end of the woody, lip traverse hands for feet, then up. Saw some truly abysmal footwork exhibited by some quite notable climbers!

[dobbin]

Right, I did that one post humously (after the time was up and after about 4 goes) and as you say you were yarding off jugs until the last bit then I think I used a figure of four to gain a good hold before the top. Hurrah.

Its Leeds this Friday if anyone fancies it???

[dave]

Figure of 4???? Mentle.

[Bubba]

Percy has just posted me the results of the comp, so I've put them up here.

Good to see some woman's results halfway up the scale...

[dave]

One of those "women" isn't. I'll say no more. :wink:

[Bubba]

Have they got very long hair? Sporting a nice set of man-breasts?

Ok, my guess is either Kym Leyland or Toni Morgan - all the others have got to be 'airy blerks  :?:

[dave]

Yeah its Kim, but keep it under your hat cos if he get a bit stronger he stands a chance of placing in the girls comp!!!

[dobbin]

Morning all! this Friday is the next round of Percy's marvellous La Sportiva bouldering comp, guess there are two sessions again - quality problems last time - looking forwards to these and then a week Saturday its the Foundry leg of the BBC. Entries are first come first served and you have to get the form off the BMC website or click this:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/indoor/comps/Entry%20form%20BBC02-03.pdf

Gaz Paz won Preston btw.

[dobbin]

ITS TONIGHT! C'mon ukBouldering team! lets get it on! I have it on good authority that Jacky Godoffe, Fred Nicole, Stanley Matthews and Pele are all coming to the Edge bouldering comp tonight.

Its fancy dress and hobnail boots are compulsory.

(Needless to say the above details of the comp where fabricated, except the date. Its a fiver still and starts at 7. See you there...)

[dave]

So is anyone else gonna be man enough to show??? its not like any of you have got anything better to do,....apart from munching pies and sinking jars.


I'll be there. You'll be able to recognise me, I'll be the only person who thought to bring a pen, again.

[dobbin]

Dave, please forgive me for stealing your pen every five minutes. Good comp though, ace problems again. Percy has got the knack.

Somewhat frustratingly I flashed up to the last hold on the sloping mantle of doom problem on the RHS as you walk in and LH as you face the wall, and then managed not to be able to do the top move. More frustratingly I blew that Red problem right by the door, deciding I wouldn't do it and handing in my score sheet only to do it next go not in the comp.

Anyway, very enjoyable and its only fun innit!

scores that I found out:-

191 Miles,
188 Gaz
160 Harris
152 Me

[dave]

Ditto, twas a good 'un.

Need more crimpy power shit though, afterall thats my only strength!

Looked at scoresheet last night, they've somehow messed it up. For example, my name is on the overall scoresheet twice, once with 1st round score and again with 2nd round score, instead of being together. Also on the round scoresheet my name features again at the bottom with 0 points for some reason!?! And I'm not the only one either!

[dobbin]

Are the scoresheets online anywhere?

[dave]

I ain't seen 'em anywhere, just at the edge. Maybe Percy wil email Mike 'em again like last month.

[Bubba]

If Percy sends 'em to me again, I'll put them up here....

[Bubba]

And he has - thanks Percy...

Here they are

[Percy B]

.........and don't forget, folks, that after you get all fat and the skin on your tips is like that of a young girls from all the washing-up you've been doing over the 'festive' season, Round 3 of the Sportiva league is on Friday 10th Jan. This is also the day before my birthday, so to celebrate thrashing myself to death setting problems for you all, I can feel an urge to bring out my 'special stuff' for you all to sample. Be warned, last time this happened I nearly killed Neil Gresham, but it did serve him right......
Anybody who thinks its a good idea to hang by just one foot from an off-width crack at the top of the Edge's bouldering wall needs their head seeing to!
Anyway, if you're all nice to me I might make it a bit narrower this time........well, maybe :twisted:

[dobbin]

Tomorrow is the last of the years series of Bouldering Comps - the British Bouldering Championships at the Floundry... anyone who fancies a laugh but is too much of a tart to enter can come and watch for the princely sum of 2 of your earth pounds. Sorry Percy, I have no rhyming slang (skin diver = £5) to input here.

I know I will be beaten into submission by all the strong people but it will be wet outside and I'll be wanting to go to the Foundry anyway so why not? c'mon! you know you want to!

You can enter on the day and I think it's a mere £17...

[dave]

£17?? :!:  Christ, for £17 i hope you get someone blowing you between problems.  :wink:

[dobbin]

Oh yeah, thats an optional extra - potential competitors swayed by this news should also note that its Graeme Alderson doing the do  :shock:

[dobbin]

Saturdays senior final of the British Bouldering Championship went off well. Overall winner Gaz Parry was beaten in this round by and on form and very vocal Andy Earl and the laydees had to play second fiddle to Lucy Creamer who was far and away the winner.

The qualifiers consisted of 12 problems of excellent quality, the setting dream team of vickers and bishton excelled themselves with imaginative climbing and good moves for both Men and women, the scores aren't up on the bmc site as yet so I dunno who got though on what points or owt but I understand it was 70 something to qualify.

Keep checking the link - http://www.thebmc.co.uk/indoor/comps/results.asp

The final was dead exciting! there were 5 probs and only three of them got ascents at all. I will be going next year. After training very hard all year! Well worth the £2 to spectate and if you competed you got a t-shirt! wooo - worth the £15!

[Bubba]

Oh yeah, thats an optional extra - potential competitors swayed by this news should also note that its Graeme Alderson doing the do  :shock:

Now that conjures up a delightul image  :shock: