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Bouldering b5 (Read 2154 times)

Rancid

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Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 03:39:24 pm
I know this is pretty vague but can anyone recommend me some quality b5's around the Peak (and Yorkshire) - ive done a handful at Stanage plantation but would like to know some nice crimpy non reachy ones.

I realise you lot can probably do b5's in your trainers but this is a challenge to me and would appreciate some advice.

dave

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#1 Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 03:57:16 pm
B5 is a superb grade in the peak for loads of ultra classic problems.

Your hitlist should include:

Lurcher Direct, Bell Hagg (1 hard move)
Banana Finger Direct, Burbage North (is a bit reachy, but most shortarses find a way)
21st Century Fox, Fox Hagg
High Traverse, Clifftop Boulder
NTBTA, Stanage
Enthusiast (arete left of Niccotine Stain), Burbage North
Pock Man without the chips, Burbage South (quite tough)
The little arete back and left of Hampers Hang buttress, Stanage (brill)
Solitude, Burbage North
Think Tank, Wimberry
The Little B5 stepped arete, Burbage Bridge
Pebble arete LHS, Stanage
Strawberries, Curbar (can feel nails)

That should keep you going for a while, quite a good range of styles there. When you've done all them you'l have some mad skillz under your belt!

I'll post any more when i think of them....

Scouse D

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#2 Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 04:10:02 pm
Too much time on your hands dave

Rancid

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#3 Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 04:11:58 pm
thanks they sound good.
im working strawberries at the moment, some days im frustratingly close and others im no way near!

keep em coming cheers

dave

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#4 Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 04:14:13 pm
come on scouse, you've got more than enough time to cut loose a list of tasty gems. :)

Jim

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#5 Bouldering b5
August 19, 2003, 04:45:49 pm
The B5 slab on roaches lower tier is very good (a bit out of the way though) and cratcliff tor has lots of good problems about that grade.

Strawberries is the herdest B5 I have ever done. When I finally did it last year it felt like absolute piss but haven't been able to do it since and I can normally flash problems or get them 2nd or 3rd go about this grade

mozzer

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#6 Bouldering b5
August 22, 2003, 03:50:54 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
Strawberries is the herdest B5 I have ever done. When I finally did it last year it felt like absolute piss but haven't been able to do it since and I can normally flash problems or get them 2nd or 3rd go about this grade


Loads of people say this, but I managed it about 4th go even though I cant do loads on Dave's hitlist. Must just be luck. Top tip from me is to really put your left toe right in the back of the crack - when I did this I did it next time.

Having said this, it suits me as a problem and I am weak as the bloke on the Mr Muscle ads.

Bubba

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#7 Bouldering b5
August 22, 2003, 04:29:37 pm
I did ok about a year ago, then the last time I tried I'd forgotten what to do so couldn't do it - summat to do with getting your feet up high and laybacking to the right of the bottom crack I think.

dave

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#8 Bouldering b5
August 22, 2003, 04:32:29 pm
its all about trusting a high left foot, and having a bit of pull accross the shoulders to reach into t'other crack. I found it quite hard at the time, and you still gotta climb it right to do it.

Jim

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#9 Bouldering b5
August 22, 2003, 05:02:33 pm
I've heard people mention 2 or 3 differnet sequences but I've only seen one that works as dave mentioned, get evrything right and it goes dead easy but just be slightly out of position and it feels nails.

A similar sort of problem I've been havin probs with is blind pew at earl, I can pull my carcass quite high on the top boulder and get my feet up on top of the bottom block but the top seems like proper distance away. Tried slapping for it a few times and nearly went mat surffing over the edge so left alone. I'm sure it will go static, any beta would be nice :D

 

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