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My Buddy the Apple (Read 5495 times)

The Sausage

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My Buddy the Apple
February 24, 2008, 02:55:21 pm
had a look at this yesterday.... would be very grateful for any beta (i know it's on winter sessions, but Bransby cruising it doesn't necesarily help that much). Any pics would be good too. Bonjoy put sme on a while ago but I can't see them for some reason (just red crosses). Is it totally desperate if you're 5'4"? (that's not me, I have a Friend Of Less Than Average Stature who's keen).
Ta all

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 24, 2008, 06:06:22 pm
 Get the two edges under the roof, throw right foot up into heel-toe on top of arete, bump LF up a bit, span out to lip with RH, bring LH up to sloper dish a few inches above lip, move RH right a bit, put in a LF heel-toe on the left hand start crimp (some folk use a RH palm in the roof to do this, see pic below), adjust right heerl-toe a bit, walk hands along lip, slap left side of flared slot at bottom of groove with RH, cross over to pinch, match pinch, RH flatty/jug, cut loose, do the top of My Apple. There's quite a bit to it
Here's some poor quality pics


« Last Edit: February 24, 2008, 08:54:00 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: remembered another detail »

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 24, 2008, 06:44:45 pm
I think I use a left heel hook on a sandy bit to match the lip. Once left is on good bit (as second photo) my knowledge is to reach back under with right hand to big pinchy arete thing by right foot, sort heel-toes out at leisure, then rematch on lip in a much better position to start the next bit.

meatball

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#3 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 25, 2008, 02:38:01 pm
where is this?

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 25, 2008, 02:39:04 pm
At the western edge of Rowtor Rocks

JohnM

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#5 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 25, 2008, 02:55:52 pm
What grade is it?

Bonjoy

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#6 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 25, 2008, 03:02:39 pm
Proper 7c

meatball

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#7 Re: My Buddy the Apple
February 27, 2008, 08:53:11 am
Cheers bonjoy  :)

r-man

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#8 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 12:55:03 pm

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 01:00:54 pm
No, but its value for the grade. No Storm or Terrace easy ticks here, no sirree

r-man

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#10 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 01:07:05 pm
Go on then, what are the JB grades for those two?

dave

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#11 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 01:08:32 pm
so heres another confusing use of "value" to describe a problem's difficulty to grade relationship. "Good value" should mean a lot of grade for not a lot of hard climbing, not the other way round!

Jaspersharpe

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#12 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 01:28:27 pm
Must admit I've always thought people meant something was hard for the grade if they said it was "good value" but when you think about it it doesn't make sense. i.e. If you're not getting much change out of 7C+ climbing wise for your 7C tick then by definition it is not "good value". I've confused myself now.  :-\

Bonjoy

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#13 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 02:43:52 pm
"Good value" in this context could be taken to mean a whole lot of 7c for your money

meatball

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#14 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 04:13:59 pm
Is it a good problem??? :-\ If so what does the grade matter ( sorry in a advance if i open a can of worms )

JohnM

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#15 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 04:55:08 pm
It matters because even if it is a good problem I personally need to know the grade to decide whether it is worth travelling to Rowtor Rocks to attempt this problem!

slackline

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#16 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 05:10:26 pm
It matters because even if it is a good problem I personally need to know the grade to decide whether it is worth travelling to Rowtor Rocks to attempt this problem!

Rowtor isn't a million miles from Cratcliffe/Robin Hoods Stride, so even if you think its poo your trip wouldn't be wasted.

Johnny Brown

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#17 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 04, 2008, 06:58:42 pm
Quote
Go on then, what are the JB grades for those two?

storm easy 7c, terrace middlin, buddy hard. Folk seem to forget one grade covers a range of difficulty.

Bonjoy

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#18 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 05, 2008, 08:52:36 am
Is it a good problem???
No, it's a great problem.

dave

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#19 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 05, 2008, 09:04:52 am
Quote
Go on then, what are the JB grades for those two?

storm easy 7c, terrace middlin, buddy hard. Folk seem to forget one grade covers a range of difficulty.

yep, in this case 7c covers 7b to 7c+. :-\  ;)

Johnny Brown

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#20 Re: My Buddy the Apple
March 05, 2008, 12:37:49 pm
Buddy isn't as hard as it looks. As Bonjoy says, it is superb.

 

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