Philli Winks 7a (F8a)Shoddy holds lead up to a ledge from which apowerful slap off a flake gains a diagonal line ofcrimps leading to the top
the differences between how Joe and everyone else have done Monoblock is insignificant, using a different sequence doesn't make for different routes. Lots of routes can be climbed using different sequences.
Oh don't worry Nik, it's quite normal for people to talk shit about the stuff they no longer excel at
I've just caught up with all this. What the fuck kind of stupid arse comment is that???
Plus there is every chance that a 7b+ could feel harder than Hueco V10s, I regularly find 7b+ that feel harder than say, oh some Swiss 7c+ problems. This proves nothing... apart from grading needing another 50 years of cheap flights to be anything like accurate around the world, ah, oh well thats not going to happen.
Repeat ascentionists have flown direct from these to the similarly obvious housebrick-shaped rectangular slot (V8)
(The 7b quote was a throw away comment made in a cafe). The only problem i have done that felt similar is Turbo Clinex a highball 8a dyno in Spain which is not as high but does have the same feel.
Even Mr Moffat and Mr Glowacz failed to achieve that