UKBouldering.com

Great White (Read 7836 times)

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#25 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 01:50:08 pm
Quote
A: I'm about an inch off reaching the sidepull from standing on the pebble cluster and bridging down to the rugosities.

Don't remember any rugosities, more of a poor smear. I'm 5'8", you're taller aren't you? I think I lurch the reach a bit and then swing straight into the next move.


I'm 6' and pretty normal arm length. The lurch and swing may well be the way.

trust me there are massive rugosities, but they will be well off the radar of the 5'8" gent.

Yep. The rugosities are very positive but it's a very wide, low bridge between them and the pebbles. You can reach static to the sidepull from there but I was about an inch off. At 5'8" you'd have no chance.

dave

  • Guest
#26 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 01:54:23 pm
i don't know if this helps but when i reach to the sidepull with RF on the rugosities my LF is just smeared wherever is convenient, not on any specific hold - its basically all on the right foot, don't let the left foot hold you back by putting it on something necessarily. I'm only a shade over 6' and can always get the sidepull ok (can't do shit with it though  ::))

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#27 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 02:02:17 pm
Nice one. I'll try that way too. Must admit that it felt as if moving from that position would be quite hard as you're well stretched. I'm counting on the fact that small positive hold + half decent footholds + long, locky move = right up my street.

I was going to say why the fuck didn't I think of trying it that way as it seems obvious now but then I've already attested to my basicness elsewhere on this forum.  :wall:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#28 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 02:42:32 pm
i can get the sidepull similar to dave and i'm shorter but better-looking than him. i too can do toffee with it though.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#29 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 02:48:07 pm
Cool. Many thanks again everyone. Now I just need new skin, decent weather, probably to get a bit stronger, etc etc etc and it's ON!  ;)

dave

  • Guest
#30 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 02:58:50 pm
despite the unfortunate typo, cofe is shorter and better at locking than me.

BVT

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 29
  • Karma: +1/-0
#31 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 03:03:15 pm
Jasper - Ena and I were the fat punters you were chatting to at Trackside yesterday.  The ones with plenty of big pads - would happily have spotted you if you'd shouted up, we were pretty shot by then.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#32 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 03:22:57 pm
Ah! Nice one. Unfortunately by the time I'd warmed up my skin was already in such a state that spotting / pads wouldn't have made a great difference yesterday but the offer is appreciated. Sorry I couldn't help you out with any sandwiches too.  :)

BVT

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 29
  • Karma: +1/-0
#33 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 03:58:54 pm
I wondered if you'd misheard me - I wasn't trying to scrounge a sandwich!  There were a load of sheep heading for your bag and I thought they were going to eat your lunch!

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#34 Re: Great White
February 21, 2008, 04:13:36 pm
Ha ha. Didn't see em! That does make more sense though come to think of it.  :-\

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 645
  • Karma: +72/-1
#35 Re: Great White
March 11, 2008, 09:56:50 pm
um, hate to be boring, but what's the grade consensus on great white. for some reason i had it in my head it's 7b+. Rupert gives it 7c. whaddya reckon?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
#36 Re: Great White
March 12, 2008, 09:26:11 am
Most seem happy with 7c. That's what I took.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#37 Re: Great White
March 12, 2008, 09:50:32 am
7c for sure i would say!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal