[Jaspersharpe]

Had a quick bash at this yesterday pm. It was greasy as fuck and with one small pad and no spotter I quickly lost skin / confidence but what a good problem.

Question. I started off trying to stay as right as possible thinking that the crack was on Ben's Wall and therefore OUT but on checking Ru's guide I realised the line is shown as starting in the crack and moving right. It would feel quite eliminate not to use the crack for feet but I just thought I'd check that it is IN?

Also. What sequence do people generally use? I was struggling with where to put my feet for the move to the high right sidepull thing - hampered by the fact that the left hand edge had been in direct sunlight for hours - and ended up just popping for it with left foot still in the crack and right on fuck all. It will definitely go like that but I'm sure there's a better way! 

[dave]

theres a few iron rugosities down right which you can use to get the sidepull at full stretch if you're tall enough. otherwise i think you can do it with left foot in that big pocket, but looks a lot more locky.

[Jaspersharpe]

And the crack?

Considered the foot in pocket option but as it felt like my left hand was about to grease off and deposit me on my back I bottled it. Rugosities eh. Sounds the better option. I'll have a look in colder conditions.

[dave]

yeah knock yourself out with the crack, i use it to pull on but never found it any use for the hard moves.

[cofe]

huffy does it on this vid i think (can't get it to work at minute):

[Bonjoy]

I reach the side pull with LF in crack and right foot on non specific flat smear. I then use the high part of the sidepull, pretty much cut loose to swing RF to obvious foothold, push  down on LH and get left toe high, then pop for pocket

[Jaspersharpe]

Sweet. Thanks.

[Johnny Brown]

What Dave said - I don't use the crack at all for feet. seem to remember a vague bridge for the move to the sidepull, left foot is on some pebbles right of the arete. Ah, here we go, ex junior champ turned thin white soho duke will demonstrate... he's a similar build to you I think.


...et maintenant pour le crux.


Like Ben's wall, break/pocket is hard to snag. Shame it doesn't top out.

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice pics as per JB. Yeah that looks a much better body position than what I was doing, I'll have to look more closely at the footholds! Days like yesterday make me really wish I had more time to get out when the conditions are good rather than just when I get the odd spare hour. This will all change of course when Sharpe Jr gets a bit older (and obviously wants to come to the crag with me rather than playing on a PS3). *wishful thinking*

[Johnny Brown]

Whilst on the subject, for the top move I don't do anything deliberate with left foot other than flagging.

[Bonjoy]

 Aaah, but you said you find it hard to snag break. If you put your left foot on the rock you can move slower and aim better. I reckon it's staticable my way. Technique see 

[Jim]

I seem to remember there is a pebble cluster just right of the crack for the left foothold. Anybody of normal stature should take note that the soho duke has very long arms, I have to jump to the side pull.

I have some photo evidence to back up JB's claims, will post them up after my tea

[Ru]

For the move to the pocket, if you put your left foot up near left hand (can't remember on what, probably the break/ seam) the move is static and easy.

[Bonjoy]

There you go

[Houdini]

Similar build...

Just lacks the breeding...

[cowboyhat]

What Dave said - I don't use the crack at all for feet. seem to remember a vague bridge for the move to the sidepull, left foot is on some pebbles right of the arete. Ah, here we go, ex junior champ turned thin white soho duke will demonstrate... he's a similar build to you I think.


...et maintenant pour le crux.


Like Ben's wall, break/pocket is hard to snag. Shame it doesn't top out.

That guy looks awesome.

[dobbin]

ooh he is. A real dreamboat. I put him at number three in my best looking boulderer top ten.

[Johnny Brown]

For the move to the pocket, if you put your left foot up near left hand (can't remember on what, probably the break/ seam) the move is static and easy.

I'm not strong enough to do it like that. I have to twist in so the layaway is as good as possible, and then tube upwards.

[Jim]

Here's photo's as promised (very long tea), sorry for poor quality but was long time ago and on my first digital camera which has been superseeded by the one in my telephone (crazy world).
I presume that getting your left foot up by your hand then becomes the crux move.

[GCW]

Bizarrely that last pic makes it look better going again with your right (crazy world).

[Jaspersharpe]

Went back yesterday pm armed with copious beta and better conditions  ..............and thin skin from Sunday which went through when warming up. Grrrr. 

Anyway I was still able to find out that - A: I'm about an inch off reaching the sidepull from standing on the pebble cluster and bridging down to the rugosities. B: I can do that move by either left foot in the crack and slap or (if I go back with assistance in the form of a spotter / more paddage for confidence) left foot high in pocket, tuck in and lock - before the blood pissing out of my middle right finger got too irritating and I gave up and went to the pub.

As annoying as the skin situation was the fact that all the bits of tape that some cunt had left and that I had cleared up from under Bens Wall on Sunday had reappeared along with some rizlas, filters and bits of food wrappers. Fucking littering pricks THERE'S NO NEED! 

[Houdini]

Some of my crew, people you all know, litter at crags constantly (95% is cigarette/joint detritus).  So what I'm going to do when I get back to Wales is photograph them and their muck and start a Litter Name & Shame thread for all to see, right here 

Great idea huh?

[Jaspersharpe]

I think it is.

[Johnny Brown]

A: I'm about an inch off reaching the sidepull from standing on the pebble cluster and bridging down to the rugosities.

Don't remember any rugosities, more of a poor smear. I'm 5'8", you're taller aren't you? I think I lurch the reach a bit and then swing straight into the next move.

[dave]

trust me there are massive rugosities, but they will be well off the radar of the 5'8" gent.

[Jaspersharpe]

A: I'm about an inch off reaching the sidepull from standing on the pebble cluster and bridging down to the rugosities.

Don't remember any rugosities, more of a poor smear. I'm 5'8", you're taller aren't you? I think I lurch the reach a bit and then swing straight into the next move.

I'm 6' and pretty normal arm length. The lurch and swing may well be the way.

trust me there are massive rugosities, but they will be well off the radar of the 5'8" gent.

Yep. The rugosities are very positive but it's a very wide, low bridge between them and the pebbles. You can reach static to the sidepull from there but I was about an inch off. At 5'8" you'd have no chance.

[dave]

i don't know if this helps but when i reach to the sidepull with RF on the rugosities my LF is just smeared wherever is convenient, not on any specific hold - its basically all on the right foot, don't let the left foot hold you back by putting it on something necessarily. I'm only a shade over 6' and can always get the sidepull ok (can't do shit with it though  )

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice one. I'll try that way too. Must admit that it felt as if moving from that position would be quite hard as you're well stretched. I'm counting on the fact that small positive hold + half decent footholds + long, locky move = right up my street.

I was going to say why the fuck didn't I think of trying it that way as it seems obvious now but then I've already attested to my basicness elsewhere on this forum. 

[cofe]

i can get the sidepull similar to dave and i'm shorter but better-looking than him. i too can do toffee with it though.

[Jaspersharpe]

Cool. Many thanks again everyone. Now I just need new skin, decent weather, probably to get a bit stronger, etc etc etc and it's ON! 

[dave]

despite the unfortunate typo, cofe is shorter and better at locking than me.

[BVT]

Jasper - Ena and I were the fat punters you were chatting to at Trackside yesterday.  The ones with plenty of big pads - would happily have spotted you if you'd shouted up, we were pretty shot by then.

[Jaspersharpe]

Ah! Nice one. Unfortunately by the time I'd warmed up my skin was already in such a state that spotting / pads wouldn't have made a great difference yesterday but the offer is appreciated. Sorry I couldn't help you out with any sandwiches too. 

[BVT]

I wondered if you'd misheard me - I wasn't trying to scrounge a sandwich!  There were a load of sheep heading for your bag and I thought they were going to eat your lunch!

[Jaspersharpe]

Ha ha. Didn't see em! That does make more sense though come to think of it. 

[The Sausage]

um, hate to be boring, but what's the grade consensus on great white. for some reason i had it in my head it's 7b+. Rupert gives it 7c. whaddya reckon?

[Bonjoy]

Most seem happy with 7c. That's what I took.

[monkey boy]

7c for sure i would say!