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Monoblock repeat (Read 18948 times)

Monolith

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Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 04:25:06 pm
Old school testpiece Monoblock at Pex Hill has had its cobwebs blown off and been reascended by Mick Adams today. Details are sketchy but hopefully some pictures will follow. Crouch..?

Drew

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#1 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 04:30:12 pm
Is Monoblock the one with the newer indirect start which everyone does instead of the original STRAIGHT up?

Oli

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#2 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 06:13:18 pm
Good work, I bet Will Hunt's creaming himself as we speak...  ;)

dave smith

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#3 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 06:19:11 pm
I see you've been subjected to Will's incessant Pex droning too then...

Houdini

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#4 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 06:46:18 pm
Heard of it; climbed @ Pex - but never had it pointed out.


Basic info and photos (any) required, bitte.

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#5 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 06:50:21 pm
"Holds the size of atoms....well spaced ones too" etc etc

andy popp

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#6 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 07:12:44 pm
Cool. As someone who's done this I'm keen to hear what Mick made of it. For those not in the know its classic just off vertical Pex crimping - tall, totally non-eliminate and not squeezed in, pretty old now too. There is slight variation between the exact line taken by Joe Healey on the FA and everyone else; Phil Davidson, me and and Pete Chadwick (latter on toprope) but its not massively significant.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2008, 07:40:56 pm by andy popp »

Monolith

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#7 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 07:20:44 pm
He claims to be on cloud number 9 right now and apparently Peaks has some images that'll go up soon no doubt.

Jim

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#8 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 07:51:50 pm
out of intrest, what font grade does this get?

GCW

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#9 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 08:07:26 pm
It always seemed to get 7c+, but that might be "I climb at Pex all the time and I'm used to the style" 7c+.  Fairly highball if I remember correctly.
Andy P is probably your man for gen.  C'mon Mr. Popp, opinions please.

andy popp

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#10 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 09:11:04 pm
Yeah, it seems to get 7c+ but this is more or less inspired guesswork, I don't really have a clue about that sort of thing.

GCW

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#11 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 09:33:57 pm
Cheers for your input, Andy :lol:

I suspect the fact it's only had a handful of ascents in many years (when did Joe Healey do it?) says one of two things: 
1.  It's Brick Hard, or
2.  It's a venue people don't travel to very often.

I vote for both.

andy popp

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#12 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 10:00:01 pm
It was done mid to late 80s. It probably hasn't been tried extensively by outsiders. Steve Dunning has tried it but not exhaustively. I think I'm right that Mick has tried it more than once before. Anyway, its a brilliant problem, nice to see it getting some attention.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2008, 10:09:29 pm by andy popp »

dave

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#13 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 10:39:50 pm
fucking hell, 13 posts about monoblock and andy F hasn't showed up yet.  :o ;) ::)

nice effort mick.

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#14 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 17, 2008, 10:56:15 pm
fucking hell, 13 posts about monoblock and andy F hasn't showed up yet. 

Yeah, I'm picking my words very carefully this time around.   :whistle:

BenF

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#15 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 08:04:46 am
Old school testpiece Monoblock at Pex Hill has had its cobwebs blown off and been reascended by Mick Adams today. Details are sketchy but hopefully some pictures will follow. Crouch..?

Details are simple... Mick pissed it, a very inspiring ascent indeed.  He's tried it many times before, but not much in recent years.  Mick abbed down it a few months ago to clean it up again but it was still a bit green higher up.  No photos I'm afraid as I was too busy spotting and the legend that is Crouch hadn't turned up yet.

Conditions at Pex are awesome at the moment.  Amazing friction and dry enough to top out stuff like Catalepsy etc.

andy popp

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#16 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 11:50:09 am
Yes, yes, that's all very well, but did he say anything about the grade?

BenF

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#17 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 12:25:15 pm
Yes Andy, he passed on his thoughts on the grades of the big three... Catalepsy, Breakaway and of course Monoblock.  Mick didn't really argue with 7c+, given how long it's taken him and the great conditions yesterday.  Pete's now goading me into trying it too. :-\ ::)  I doubt I'll get up it but I'll have a go for a few years before giving up.

Mick also felt that Breakaway was little different to when he last did it (a couple of years ago at least) and I was surprised to see him take a fair few goes to get it ticked (Mick normally eats stuff under 7b+ for breakfast and I've seen him flash 7b+ slabs).  I also climbed Breakaway (having only tried it once a few months back so can't comment on whether the hold has changed much) and thought it harder than the 7a you suggested after the "chipping" incident.  More endless discussion on the grade is probably required...

Catalepsy is also in fine nick and I topped it out, reasoning that 7a is a likely grade for this in the guide (although I'm open to persuasion if people feel the need to).
« Last Edit: February 18, 2008, 12:46:02 pm by BenF, Reason: clarity »

SA Chris

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#18 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 01:35:44 pm
screw ons only, no apostrophes.

BenF

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#19 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 03:45:52 pm
screw ons only, no apostrophes.

Duly noted and corrected.  And I hate those type of errors too.  I may punter myself later.  Once I've wadded you for pedantry of course.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 04:23:24 pm
Word.

Is it possible to punter yourself? I am intrigued to see, but first wall session of the year awaits.

Andy F

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#21 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 07:40:30 pm
Catalepsy is also in fine nick and I topped it out, reasoning that 7a is a likely grade for this in the guide (although I'm open to persuasion if people feel the need to).

7a+ was fair for Catalepsy I alway's though. Great to see Monoblock get a repeat, and the grade confirmed. Now get to it Ben, it must be the last thing to tick on that section for you.

BenF

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#22 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 18, 2008, 08:29:42 pm
7a+ was fair for Catalepsy I alway's though. Great to see Monoblock get a repeat, and the grade confirmed. Now get to it Ben, it must be the last thing to tick on that section for you.

Your thoughts on Catalepsy are noted Andy.  I was heading towards 7a due to the ease at which Mick did it and the way that I did it several times with no trouble.  I guess its a thing you can get wired.  I'm certain however that Breakaway is still at least a grade harder. Tough for the short too.

As for me ticking the wall... far from it mate.  Staminade is my main project this year there, but I'll check out Monoblock next week if dry.

Is it possible to punter yourself? I am intrigued to see, but first wall session of the year awaits.

If you can't do it yourself, I find that my mates are the best at puntering me off a problem.  A right bunch of twats. ;)

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 21, 2008, 08:29:12 am
Cant believe I missed this! Great effort by Mick.
 :great:
If anyone can confirm a new grade for Breakaway it would be cool.

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#24 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 21, 2008, 10:40:57 am
Ben you are the grand master chief of puntering, i also see your learning the art of Hustling ;)
Get on monobloc Ben!!!

 

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