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Monoblock repeat (Read 23805 times)

BenF

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#25 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 21, 2008, 12:32:06 pm
Ben you are the grand master chief of puntering,

I bow before your puntering talents though.

If anyone can confirm a new grade for Breakaway it would be cool.

There has been a lot of discussion about this and at the moment it seems to be settling around 7b, but a low end one at that.  The reasoning being that it is still a fair bit harder than Catalepsy and Catalepsy seems to be stuck on 7a+ (despite my suggestion that it goes down a grade) due to the large numbers of independent, non-locals that have suggested that grade.  Although there was a furore about the hold improvement on Breakaway last year, it doesn't actually seem to have been altered much according to various people who've been on it before and after the "improvement".  I know that Andy P thinks it's well easier now, but the general reply to this is that he's a beast on small holds and much stronger than he thinks he is!  And also that the hold is actually still rather small and still makes for a hard move.  I cannot comment on the hold change as I didn't try the problem until recently, but having climbed it recently I do think that it's a grade harder than Catalepsy. 

In my opinion Breakaway is very worthy of attention, particularly if you can't reach the left hand little crimp with feet in the break - shorties get a better move than lanky people I reckon!

meatball

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#26 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 21, 2008, 12:35:49 pm
 :-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains

Will Hunt

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#27 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 22, 2008, 06:18:58 pm
Cheers for that, Ben. Will have to take another look at Catalepsy with that in mind. Is a top rope inspection of the upper section advised for someone who would be climbing just about at their limit in the lower section?

Pantontino

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#28 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 23, 2008, 02:42:16 pm
:-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains

The mind boggles!

Will Hunt

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#29 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 23, 2008, 04:34:33 pm
:-\ Ben dont play the innocent mate ;)
You taught me every trick that i know, including sewing prawns into somebody's curtains

Is that why beef curtains smell of prawn?

Did I  just say that?

 :whistle:

meatball

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#30 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 08:39:55 am
when was the last time you sampled the delights of the fairer sex??? ::)

BenF

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#31 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 12:37:03 pm
Is a top rope inspection of the upper section advised for someone who would be climbing just about at their limit in the lower section?

Not if it's dry!  The climbing isn't hard from the big pocket to the top, just a bit high.  Maybe English 5b.  Most important is ensuring that the top slopey break and the actual top are dry and not too green.  There is a branch/root that could assist topping out, but using it would be a cop out in my view.  You don't need to anyway, its a simple mantel.

SA Chris

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#32 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 02:20:10 pm
Mantle :)

BenF

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#33 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 03:36:21 pm
Mantle :)

No, mantel.  As in mantelshelf... http://www.thefreedictionary.com/mantelshelf.  I'm not talking about the Earth's crust, or even the mantle of being UKB's biggest pedant.  ::)

SA Chris

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BenF

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#35 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 04:13:54 pm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantle_(climbing) wrongly.

I quote...  "To mantle or mantel in rock climbing is to perform a specific move, typically to get a climber up onto a ledge. The term is derived from the phrase mantel shelf and derives from the shelf above a fireplace."

Fuck me, I can't believe we're having this discussion!  Oh yeah, I've got work to do, that'll be why I'm still replying...

SA Chris

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#36 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 04:29:18 pm
See last two lines.

BenF

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#37 Re: Monoblock repeat
February 25, 2008, 04:35:36 pm
What a terrible waste of time and effort.  Shameful.  However, the last ten minutes were a good ten minutes and I got a fair bit done.  Looking up on the work front.  Then I opened up UKB again.

r-man

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#38 Re: Monoblock repeat
March 30, 2008, 09:25:38 pm
Just happened across a photo of Pete Chadwick on Monoblock. Looks thin, unsurprisingly...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=83684

Houdini

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#39 Re: Monoblock repeat
March 30, 2008, 09:49:21 pm
That pic is awful and shows nothing. 

Is there still no better pic than this antique, something head on?

saintlade

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#40 Re: Monoblock repeat
March 30, 2008, 10:30:07 pm
Good effort on the send Mick, have stood below Monoblock a few times and have on occasion had the balls to cast a furtive glance up it but not actually even dare to try and pull on. Looks nails.

andy popp

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#41 Re: Monoblock repeat
April 01, 2008, 11:12:06 am
As the not so 'antigue' photo shows a certain local also did this last week.

Andy F

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#42 Re: Monoblock repeat
April 01, 2008, 06:45:21 pm
I'd heard said local was injured  :o Fine effort indeed.

fatneck

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#43 Re: Monoblock repeat
April 02, 2008, 03:39:04 pm
I heard the same too! Excellent effort Pete  :beer2:

Jim

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#44 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 05, 2009, 07:15:11 pm
James repeated this today, took him about 6 or 7 goes.
Good effort considering the rain, will post some photo's later

fatneck

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#45 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 06, 2009, 10:18:45 am
Excellent stuff!! Good to see people getting down with the Pex flavour...

Monolith

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#46 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 06, 2009, 06:10:20 pm
Good weeeeerk lid.

Jim

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#47 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 07, 2009, 11:14:33 pm


and dateline


slackline

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#48 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 07, 2009, 11:35:46 pm
Good pics Jim.

Good effort on the climbing too James.

mrjonathanr

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#49 Re: Monoblock repeat
June 08, 2009, 10:45:31 am
It was done mid to late 80s.
1985 IIRC

 

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