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Malham Re-bolting (Read 3861 times)

Andy F

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Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 08:15:19 am
As of yesterday the following routes have been re-bolted.
Upstairs
Lob'Session - top 3 replaced
Obsession - 4th and 5th
NAT - 2nd replaced
Herbie -  all replaced
Conehead - all replaced

Downstairs (not sure 100% on these)
The Oak - all done, will have an extra bolt added on the run-out at a later date (with John's permission)
The Maximum - 2nd and last
Magnetic - all done AFAIK
Connect 4 - top bolt
Raindogs - bottom 3 at least
Free and even easier - bottom bolt

Serpico

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#1 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 09:27:06 am
As of yesterday the following routes have been re-bolted.
Upstairs
Lob'Session - top 3 replaced
Obsession - 4th and 5th
NAT - 2nd replaced
Herbie -  all replaced
Conehead - all replaced

Downstairs (not sure 100% on these)
The Oak - all done, will have an extra bolt added on the run-out at a later date (with John's permission)
The Maximum - 2nd and last
Magnetic - all done AFAIK
Connect 4 - top bolt
Raindogs - bottom 3 at least
Free and even easier - bottom bolt


I think Connect 4 was completely rebolted, but the top bolt's been put in the wrong place and needs moving.
Was Raindogs done? I didn't realise it needed doing.
I think some better assessing needs to be done on some of these placements; good bolts are being hammered in when all that actually needed replacing was the nut with a stainless steel one. Good placements are at a premium at Malham and shouldn't be unnecessarily moved.

abarro81

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#2 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 09:51:45 am
wicked... on a slightly related note, what's a lanky weakling likely to find easier - NAT or toadal recall, and which one do ya'll think is better?

Teaboy

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#3 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 09:52:20 am
Thank you to anyone involved, have a wadage point by proxy :beer2:

Andy F

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#4 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 10:15:44 am
wicked... on a slightly related note, what's a lanky weakling likely to find easier - NAT or toadal recall, and which one do ya'll think is better?

NAT is the easier of the two if you're tall (or short for that matter) but Todall has better climbing. They're both bottom end 8a, NAT very bottom end.

north_country_boy

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#5 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 01:26:05 pm
yeah no point spending time doing 7c+'s.........get on a proper 8a....

Andy F

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#6 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 01:31:51 pm
yeah no point spending time doing 7c+'s.........get on a proper 8a....

True, they're both baby 8a. Embryo 8a in the case of NAT, but you have to put the boundary somewhere. Admittedly Raindogs is far better than either, but you all knew that anyway.

Andy F

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#7 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 01:49:25 pm
Thank you to anyone involved, have a wadage point by proxy :beer2:

Best give some to Serpico as he's in on it as well.

IanP

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#8 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 13, 2008, 04:37:43 pm
wicked... on a slightly related note, what's a lanky weakling likely to find easier - NAT or toadal recall, and which one do ya'll think is better?

Not that I've done either  :( but I would say Toadal was definitely the better.  Strangely enough despite the crux looking like a long reach I'm not sure its easier for the tall.  I've undoubtedly found it very frustrating which may well be due to my general rubbishness but did notice at the weekend that my shorter mate seemed to find it easier than another guy who was tall (and a pretty good climber, relatively) - we discussed whether it was to do with shorter people being able to get there weight over the rockover more easily.

Though really this all sounds a bit like feeble excuses for failure  :oops:

Well done to all putting the effort in, look foward to maybe clipping some nice new bolts this weekend  :dance1:

Doylo

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#9 Re: Malham Re-bolting
February 14, 2008, 10:38:05 pm
good work re-equipers! :thumbsup:

 

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