[Rhys]

I've got some mates coming down this weekend- one of whom hasn't been to Wales before, so could anyone reccomend some problems (about font7C/V9) to do? Unfortunately, being the weaking that I am I don't know what the classic problems are at this grade, and they don't particularly like traversing so I'd be most gratefull for ideas.

Mucho thanks

[dave]

the obvious one to suggest is jezzers roof.

[dobbin]

If they're strong (or think they are) take them to Parisellas too - Rockattrocity gets a 9 (I think) and theres always Lou ferrino if they feel butch.

[Scouse D]

Barrel Groove is 7b+ but feels harder(used to be V9), as Dave says Jerry's Roof is the classic V9, and Bus Stop(also under the same roof) is a more technical but shorter version also at about V9.
Up on the hillside you should get your mates on wavelength V8, which is nails but classic.
as dobbin says, Parisellas has got a good selection, but I know you climb there a bit anyway.
Maybe also take em to Caseg Boulder at show them the Gimp which is V8+or9 (to the right of the Groove and Main vein).
That's all I can think of at that grade now apart from more obscure problems. If they ice all those problems you could always take your mates down into Nant Gwynant where there's Elephantitus Cave and the Clogwyn y Bustach boulders where some new and apparently good probs have been done(a Floppy prob called Sick Happy, and some other good steep stuff)

[Rhys]

Cheers for the suggestions, if half the problems mentioned get sent it should be a good trip. I thought the Gimp was about V8? I can only get near it with my secret weapons (a pair of Sportiva mantas bought new for the price of some helixes!) and I was also thinking of the Barrel groove.

Just come back from quite a stressfull day doing an experiment for some guys I know. You're supposed to lead a route at your onsight limit with a heart rate monitor. I have'nt done a route for about 7 months now, but what with my bouldering going well I thought I'd hop on an E4. Yep, I cacked it.

[Pantontino]

There isn't really a consensus grade for the Gimp. Opinions vary between V7-V9. I've put it down as a V8.

Cheers, Simon.

[Rhys]

Just got back and a good time was had by all (The weekend stretched to 9 days!). Cheers again for the suggestions, and I'd like to report that some cranking like a mo-fo went on (as did some well ugly gurning from all involved :D ).

[dobbin]

pictures! pictures! pictures!

[Mike_H]

Rhys - were you one of the lads bouldering on the Cromlech boulders on Sunday?

If so, say cheers to the guy that gave me the beta on the Utopia boulder had a good afternoon up there on Monday.

[Rhys]

If you're refering to the unwashed gent that pointed out the Utopia block from the top of one of the Cromlech boulders- that would be me! Hope you had a good time- I think I reccomended a circuit (Wavelengh etc.) did you make it?

Luckily noone had a camera, especially as my tent fell down in the wind and got soaked (had to spend the next 3 days sleeping in the same clothes!), but a huge big-up to the hero who took the tent poles out, pinned down the fly sheet and weighed it with rocks. When I came back from 'Berris I thought it was gone, when I saw it my soul wept at the kindness.

Probably the worst grimmace was when Joe fell off the top jug on The Sting after holding it for a full two seconds (after about 10 mins work), he came back the next day and pasted it it.

[Mike_H]

Small world eh.

Yeah checked out Utopia first and then worked up the hill as you suggested, managed to bump in to another couple of guys that gave me a bit more beta.

Thanks again.

[Rhys]

No worries.

Did you have any difficulty finding the problems? What was the most enjoyable problem/ place? It's a magic place this time of year, eh. :D

[Mike_H]

No problems at all, I just headed straight for Utopia and luckily I managed to bump in to 2 guys who were pretty helpful and pointed me to another couple of boulders and from there I just followed the chalk.

Quite a nice experience not knowing the grades of some problems and just pulling on holds.

I liked Utopia, especially the two problems on the left the V5 from the J shaped side pull and also the problem to the right going up through those 1 finger pockets.

The guy who was there said it was V4, which I thought was about right. Then someone I spoke to when I got home said it was V5/V6 from the sit start. What do you reckon?

Apart from that King of the Drunks was good (couldn't latch the top sloper) and finally I liked the curving crack thing (V3?) took a little bit of figuring out.

[dontfollowme]

King of drunks is awesome, its been ages since I did so I can't remember the exact sequence but I remember the top moves were easier for my lanky long armed mate. I'm definetely going to make a trip to N Wales when the new guide is out.

[Rhys]

On the Utopia block you might be refering to Utopia Central V4 ('S.Start on square block, straight up pockety seam to ledge. Only V3 from a stand up start' -to quote the Northern sould guide). There's an eliminate up dimples next to it which is given V5/6 which is the one you may be thinking of.

Was the bent crack in The Meadow (i.e. next to Killer Weed)? if so it was Floppy's crack V3.

My sequence for King of the Drunks is to get the sloper with the left, right foot in and right hand on the slopey crimp and go to the golf ball with the left- it's only a tiny distance but the feet always fly right off!

Yeah, the whole place is ace (and apologies to Simon Panton- the real holder of the North Wales knowledge :D )

[Mike_H]

Good knowledge Rhys, it felt ok for V4. Thats why I was very suprised when someone told me it was V5/V6. As you say maybe it was their mix up with the thing next to it.

Yeah the V3 was in the meadow, I thought that was a really nice problem. Not mega obvious when you first get on it.

As for King of the Drunks, I may have to pay it a return visit before the year is out.

[Rhys]

If you give me a shout next time you come down, I could show you the area a bit better. I was heading back on Monday so I didn't offer then (that and trashed tips). Take care

[Mike_H]

Nice one Rhys.  :

I'll give you a shout next time I come down, I may check out Porth Ysgo next time as well.

Likewise if you get up to Yorkshire and want a bit of a guided tour, give me a shout!