My favorite sloper (Read 4131 times)

Jim · August 12, 2003, 08:46:39 pm

As the nights draw in and the weather will hopefully be going colder, I have been thinking about my favorite grit slopers that I will be going to pull on, on that first cold day. Some of my fav's are:

the start of the wobble block - burbage bridge
blind date - remergance block
early doors sloper - curbar
beachball - secret garden
piss - higgar

Come on then, what am I forgetting

dave · August 13, 2003, 12:02:52 am

the sloper on blind date you dont really have to pull on, just really use it as an intermediate. I rate the big double handed sloper/boss on the nose at burbage west (although it is quite juggy its nice), the slopers on deep end, and the lip sloper on pogles wood. Flava.

dobbin · August 13, 2003, 07:41:40 am

My favourite sloper of all time has to be that one on the Press that you go to with your right hand.... Ok, I'm only kidding. I've always liked that one that you have to pinch on the nose of the remergence block before you move up to a sloping edge. Very good.

fatboySlimfast · August 13, 2003, 10:19:13 am

have to be the pocket/sloper on on T'crack, get it feels good, get higher oh my god its become shit.
that sloper thing on early dors is very satisfying when u get the right bit, all of a sudden it feels piss

Bubba · August 13, 2003, 10:24:07 am

Thinking about it - my favourite one is on a b6 at Eagle Tor - you snatch up to it off the floor then match and use it to get your feet high and a big big reach for the top. Dunno why, just feels nice!

dave · August 13, 2003, 10:39:35 am

Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"

have to be the pocket/sloper on on T'crack,

i fucking hate that hold. It rips skin like a mofo, its so much rougher than the surrounding rock (its must be chipped, no?). You are on the money with the ED sloper tho.....

Stu Littlefair · August 13, 2003, 10:44:04 am

How can anyone choose anything other than the second hold on Berezina?

Are you all mad. That is as close to Plato's "ideal" sloper as it gets.

dave · August 13, 2003, 10:47:50 am

well it ain't a grit sloper is it :wink:

but if we're on about font slopers, there too many to choose from, but i rate the one on el pousahh, and the first double-handed one you jump to on aerodynamite is a corker.

Bubba · August 13, 2003, 10:48:08 am

This looks like a good 'un:

dave · August 13, 2003, 10:52:15 am

we got a new challenger:

Avoiding the Traitor · August 13, 2003, 11:46:17 am

Quote from: "dave"

we got a new challenger:

Hmm didn't know Prince Harry into Bouldering.

dave · August 13, 2003, 11:47:19 am

Rather!

Jim · August 13, 2003, 04:08:19 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

Thinking about it - my favourite one is on a b6 at Eagle Tor

Is this is the guide? if so which problem is it as i haven't been there yet but may go this week.

Have just remember the hideous sloper on work/play hard at curbar, is this a good sloper or not. I suppose only once you've been able to pull on it - so a sloper to aspire to!

The sloper on T-crack is awesome if you hit it right and use the cheeky undercut with left hand to get the top.

Finally the sloper on blind date is not just an intermediate, for weakling like me, I need it to get my foot established on the lip and then fall off - will hopefully get a move or two further this winter

Bubba · August 13, 2003, 05:38:38 pm

Quote from: "Jim"

Is this is the guide? if so which problem is it as i haven't been there yet but may go this week.

Page 165, problem 5 or 6, not sure really - you prolly won't think much to it, but I just like it.

Quote from: "Jim"

Have just remember the hideous sloper on work/play hard at curbar, is this a good sloper or not. I suppose only once you've been able to pull on it - so a sloper to aspire to!

Well there's a photo of it up the page!

hongkongstuey · August 14, 2003, 02:02:15 am

without a doubt it has to be the sloper on the problem left of the dyno at the Newstones, the sweetest hold on the sweetest of problems!

dave · August 14, 2003, 08:47:30 am

I'll drink to that - totally forgot about that one, its the best sloper on grit by miles!

Bubba · August 14, 2003, 08:52:44 am

The problem that goes up the vague groove line?

dave · August 14, 2003, 09:17:34 am

no it goes up a blunt arete.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=1888 The sloper is in his right hand. better than it looks in this photo.

hongkongstuey · August 14, 2003, 09:47:11 am

there must be a better picture of this problem somewhere - i've got stack loads in a box in my parents attic but thats not much use

Bubba - get down there with your camera - i'm sure it'd be delightful in 30 degree heat!

Bubba · August 14, 2003, 09:54:38 am

Mmmmm sweat, mmmmm midges, mmmmm :wink:

dave · August 14, 2003, 11:06:23 am

i got some photos of that problem on print at home.

its actually coling down a bit now, last nite at the tor it were proper baltic.

hongkongstuey · August 14, 2003, 11:09:09 am

Quote from: "dave"

it were proper baltic.

i can keep dreaming - atleast two more months of sweat out here before things get nice again :crying:

Percy B · August 24, 2003, 07:37:47 pm

A very sad choice ('cos it 's on one of my problems) but the sloper at the bottom of the hanging slab on Tourette's Arete at Eagle Tor is my personal fave (the hold you get off the starting slopey ledge). Apart from anything else, if you don't have the 'feel' of the move it just does not seem possible to hold it. Many a strong boy has failed to do anything with this particular grip. Mind you, I 'spose it could hardly qualify as a true sloper as there isn't really any hold there to speak of - just a slightly stickier bit of grit.....Nice! Roll on October..... :D