[Jim]

Houdini, I thin you may be thinking about the arete thing at raven stones? that was discussed on these boards last year sometimes.
James is deceptively tall with a big reach BTW

[GCW]

There's an arete at Thorn needs doing.

[Jaspersharpe]

Houdini, I thin you may be thinking about the arete thing at raven stones? that was discussed on these boards last year sometimes.
James is deceptively tall with a big reach BTW

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5409.msg99242.html#msg99242

[andy popp]

The Ravenstones one is good but possibly just very highball nowadays, but Houdini is right, there is also a belter at Kinder Downfall, near Raggald's Wall, looks v. hard and definitely not just highball.

[Johnny Brown]

What Andy said - its in the downfall area and looks like the bow of a ship. High, hard, bad landing.

I've no great problem with Dave's exclusive, feeling he had to lie about it to three of us yesterday was a bit wierd though. Jeez, if Sam can keep a secret for 12 hours I'm sure I could.

[David S]

I didn't really trust anyone to keep it quiet (except the odd close friend) because I know what gossip is like. Plus I even rang you to apologise this morning Adam so let's drop it yeh. Just get back to the fact that James' climbed it.

[AndyR]

Maybe you have to see it in person to realise how important this is, but the photos on the hotaches page left me wondering what all the fuss was about? Is it just not very photogenic?

[AndiT]

It is brilliant news, well done James. It's great to see that it's pushing the technical boundaries too, rather than being another skyhook/rock n roller type route.

I think it was inevitable that it would one day be climbed, and James really deserved it.

[andy_e]

Bon effort monsieur tres fort. 

[Houdini]

Interesting as JB predicted it as E7 7b (which I would've thought that if that were the case it would have been done years ago) and James gives it E10 7b which would be more appropriate - if you understand the Brit system fully.

Also - no disrespect to JP - but is this pushing technical boundaries?  Sure a 7c tech grade would be the case if that was so . . .

And argue!

[AndiT]

Also - no disrespect to JP - but is this pushing technical boundaries?  Sure a 7c tech grade would be the case if that was so . . .

And argue!

Yeah, course it is, how many other 7b routes are out there? Plus, it may be hard 7b. Also, if he gave it 7c, everyone would be saying "hey, we've missed a grade".

I definitely think it is a boundary push and it's also good news to know that someone at last is willing to break the tech grade bubble.

[Johnny Brown]

Interesting as JB predicted it as E7 7b

James suggested E7 7a when I saw him on it, I see now this was clearly a joke. It think 7b is fair, suggests font 8a-8b for the crux section. Can't really comment on the route grade, missing the break would certainly see you very close to the ground, think Genocide but worse, and with a 7b move to stick to boot. Bransby suggested E6 for the higher section, which could mean nothing.

Maybe you have to see it in person to realise how important this is, but the photos on the hotaches page left me wondering what all the fuss was about? Is it just not very photogenic?

The good pics are clearly being saved for the mag. This pic might give a better idea, if you ignore the balding chump:



Its a stunning feature. Direction is lost slightly iabove the crux section, but few who've seen it would deny its worthy of a place in the canon of most coveted lines on grit. The fact that its been tried by all the best makes it a prize indeed. I'm sure James is walking around with a right grin on, and well earned. Can't wait to see the video.

edit: I'm sure James has already got one, but the name suggestions on this old thread are worth a read

[Houdini]

Warm Love is given 7b as is Samson (theres a fair bit on boulder probs) and is old now.  But your point is salient, there are not that many routes w/ 7b on, however it's not up there w/ the hardest moves on rock and that's what I meant and should have made it clearer - and saved you a job.

[old cheese]

Was hoping this news got out. Mw and worm were at cratcliffe on Sat and saw Mr Simmonite looking furtive amongst the boulders. He was very coy though, I kinda knew what was happening and we went to watch. Looked easy when he led it. A faint left foot slip as he latched the break and no drama after that.

Worm did reckon he had done it before James who offered us a grade of E2 5C or font 8a+!

[Sloper]

Was hoping this news got out. Mw and worm were at cratcliffe on Sat and saw Mr Simmonite looking furtive amongst the boulders. He was very cosy though, I kinda knew what was happening and we went to watch. Looked easy when he led it. A faint left foot slip as he latched the break and no drama after that.

Worm did reckon he had done it before James who offered us a grade of E2 5C or font 8a+!

Was it that cold

[Resonate]

is it this one?

[Ru]

Amazing: a great line, a funky solution. Props to James.

[AndyR]

The good pics are clearly being saved for the mag. This pic might give a better idea, if you ignore the balding chump:

That photo looks like a Lancashire quarry!

[GCW]

Not as good as a Lancashire Quarry 

[Jacqusie]

good effort James - the conditions were so good it felt something big should have gone down - just in time for Adams script too!!

(and of course some piccys for the guide too!!)

 



Si

[Bubba]

Fantastic!     

[Will Hunt]

I'd kind of like to see it called "The Groove" simply because thats how its always been known and sometimes less is more. Then again if I'd wanted to name it I should have gone and climbed it. Had stuff to do though so never got round to it.
 


Fuckin ell. The shit has already started on UKC. People complaining that he wasnt in the groove. Bloody gobshites. 

[dave]

Has anyone heard what the name will be then, or do I have to wait for Hello magazine to come out so I can read it in WHSmiths?

[Johnny Brown]

Fern Ill gets my vote.

[cofe]

given the venue, 'Nuthatch/my mortal enemy the pomegranate' would get my vote.