UKBouldering.com

Pair of V10/7c+s on Little Orme and Pantymwyn (Read 11273 times)

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1500
  • Karma: +128/-5
Now that's established, could someone tell that Zaf Skoczylas fella...

Exactly, that problem is utter toss.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
I would like to say that i think that caveman is soft 7b and the sit down is a hard 7b+ from a sit start. Si graded this problem for me and would not listen to me about the real grade. About this sit start crap, My problem is from sitting on my arse, so what is all the crap about me starting from a move in, a sit start is sit start or has the climbing world changed for the worse. Sorry forgive me but fuck you very much.
Anyway good skills Danny from the undercut (beast).
P.s Wierdo is hard 7b in my eyes, Hard 7c my arse.

The sitter to Caveman is pointless cos the majority of people can reach the first holds of caveman from a sitter. Starting at the back gives the problem a new dimension. Hock we all know you don't find 7b+ hard and panton said you were puffing an panting up caveman. As for Weirdo being 7b, are the likes of mule, nige harris, danny and huffy so shit at grading? I believe in the majority of places that i have bouldered in the world it would get 7c+ so i reckon its at least 7b+ (probably 7c) in Wales. Anyway hopefully this thread will get more people up there, its a lovely spot.

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
If Weirdo is 7b+ I'm quitting climbing.

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
Or should I say..if Weirdo is 7b I'm quitting climbing. It's desperado!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
well it looks like its goin in the next guide as 7b. I'll retire with you Monolith, theres got to be more to life than this!

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
There is my friend. Tuesday all nighters in town arising at 3.30pm on wednesday. Get into it!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
i'll show you what partying is all about next saturday

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
An I'll show YOU what rhohypnol is all about.

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
I havent been on here for ages so forgive me if i havent found it yet, but is there a good topo for this place yet, i have seen some of the articles on northwalesbouldering.com but was just wondering if theres a full topo floating around yet, theres seems to be enough stuff there now for one

Have you got the NWB guide? - the topos in there show everything (done so far). The marked project on the Bulging Wall became Cheech Marin, although that is now awaiting a re-ascent since a hold broke. Probably be V12/8a+ now, if anybody is interested.

ah ok cheers i will check that out, also i am prob being lazy again, but the breck road area i know the topo is on line but exactly where is it, i know its around the cave, i just dont want to waste what limited time i have in wales looking for new places, cheers

If you read the topo it says quite specifically that the Breck Road area is 50m up the hill from Parisella's. C'mon man, it ain't navigating through a winter storm on top of the Carneddau, more like a quick trot up the hill from one of the most prominent and well known roadside bouldering venues in Wales!  ::)

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
Either way - these new Orme problems are gash.  Look at the rock quality.  Poor.  Sometimes to counter w/ movement is not enough.  There are holds all over that face, all over.  Which ones you use are dictated by you and not the rock.  And that's why it's gash.   Soft on The G does not suffer from this conundrum; but then it's made of rock - not fish.

I know I'm taking the troll bait...but Houdini, you miserable, negative, stuck record goon, I'm making an educated guess here, but have you ever tried Caveman? It's just that if you really want to stick the boot into the creative/explorative output of others, might it not be a good idea to base your vitriol on some good old fashioned, genuine, bona-fide, real life experience?

Just a thought, that's all. Consider/disregard as you see fit.  :wave:

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
Bog off Si  ;)

« Last Edit: February 16, 2008, 05:25:23 pm by Houdini »

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
Either way - these new Orme problems are gash.  Look at the rock quality.  Poor.  Sometimes to counter w/ movement is not enough.  There are holds all over that face, all over.  Which ones you use are dictated by you and not the rock.  And that's why it's gash.   Soft on The G does not suffer from this conundrum; but then it's made of rock - not fish.

I know I'm taking the troll bait...but Houdini, you miserable, negative, stuck record goon, I'm making an educated guess here, but have you ever tried Caveman? It's just that if you really want to stick the boot into the creative/explorative output of others, might it not be a good idea to base your vitriol on some good old fashioned, genuine, bona-fide, real life experience?

Just a thought, that's all. Consider/disregard as you see fit.  :wave:

he he.

soft on the G houdini is that a piss take. I never know when your being serious!
« Last Edit: February 16, 2008, 06:28:36 pm by Doylo »

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
And as if by magic, Doylo appeared. . .

 ;D

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal