[Houdini]

Yo --

I'm looking for a modern equivalent/s to gash old-skewl texts such as Horst et al.  Who isn't even a sports scientist.

W/ the focus on gaining modern beastitude w/ modern techniques (ie -- increased bodyweight etc..)  Preferably backed up w/ SCIENCE from SCIENTISTS -- if it's climbing-based, then even better.

What do people know about this?  I know there's not loads of stuff out there pertinent to bouldering, but . . .

[Paul B]

Ripptoe's starting strength, its not climbing based though.

[Houdini]

Anyone know where one may purchase bodypacks (some vest that takes added weight) or whatever they are called?

Interesting book and site.  Shame it's not more bouldering based.  Paul_ - write that book will you?  Go on be a sport, I'd buy three copies. 

[Paul B]

a while ago i thought about doing a useful training/injuries links thread.

[Houdini]

Meaning what, were you employing sarcasm/irony?  (I'm uninjured)



But seriously, who else is writing about climbing training right this minute?  Aside from Gresham and other Poodle breeders.

You could corner the market in one and employ the knowledge of the School.  That's quite a resource.

[GCW]

Dumby D has done a fair bit of research/ writing.  Used to be somewhere on his site.

[Houdini]

Gresham's DVD's are like watching paint dry.


Or as Ginger Cain is fond of saying It's like watching paint dry!

[Houdini]

There's always Nibile's guru . . .    Book would be much cheaper though.

[Paul B]

Meaning what, were you employing sarcasm/irony?  (I'm uninjured)

no  

But seriously, who else is writing about climbing training right this minute?  Aside from Gresham and other Poodle breeders.

steve mclure
dave macleod

You could corner the market in one and employ the knowledge of the School.  That's quite a resource.

its simple: basic, fingery, stop strong,however people will always look for a shortcut

[GCW]

It's like watching blood dry.

Have a look at Dave's articles- various under training.  I don't know if you've read them before.
You have to remember Houd, that not a lot of the info out there is based on SCIENCE, a lot of it is "this works for me".  Dylan is another one in the know, I'm sure he'll add something of use.

[GCW]

There's a review article HERE which may help you.

[Yossarian]

its simple: basic, fingery, stop strong,however people will always look for a shortcut

can you elucidate just a little more generously?

[Serpico]

Of the current climbing books, this is my favourite:
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=LV4O2YpzM-YC&pg=PP1&dq=the+self+coached+climber&sig=qVZSNIzAIG-LGpHqctANv-uF8rk
But It mainly covers chuffing.
For periodisation and strength training try this:
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=RUowTe6UvbcC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Bompa+periodization&sig=ozsuIwVFXH_e79b9bP5QtKQZXNI
And before you strap a load of weights to yourself you might want to plod through this thread:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1644053;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread
In particular note the posts by Aerili who's a certified strength and conditioning coach, and Fluxus who co=authored The Self Coached Climber, and is a climbing coach with a degree in human kinetics.

[Houdini]

Thanks for all the info & links.

What surprises me is that many sports science students, especially in Bangor, Sheff, and L'borough will study climbing in some form.  Strikes me as pointless that someone is not collating this info' and putting it on a website or in a book.  Something to build on.

Actually none of my questions revolve around my training needs (being super light is enough for me - and I'm happy - no interest in increased bodyweight exercises, personally) but an interested 3rd party who doesn't post here.

[Paul B]

sorry but not atm,1 finger typing on nhs keypad thing [takes ages]

[Yossarian]

ahhh. well, i will look forward to increased mobility...

[GCW]

Hence Room 101 eh Paul?
I looked on PubMed before to see what papers were around regarding our little sport (peer reviewed stuff is very scarce, and generally crap).  Feel free to have a search and let us know if you find something.  I would myself but I haven't got time at present.

[Houdini]

aerili wrote:


The exercise science literature now evidences that adding resistance to sport specific movements actually DECREASES performance. It has to do NOT with the strength of the muscles, but the way the body fires groups of muscles to perform the movement in the first place.


&

Attempting to duplicate a sport specific movement with unaccustomed movements and loads results in the athlete learning two methods or styles of performance, thus causing a negative transfer. Multiple motor memories adapt, which inevitably leads to confusion. Competitive performance will either suffer or not benefit in any manner as a result.

Quite.  So it seems I'm vindicated by refusing to indulge in nothing but bodyweight exercises.  I took this path 11 years ago after embarking on what I now recognise as an utterly savage weights regime.

Ah . . .   The sweet taste of Tylex is still in my mouth.

[Paul B]

i dont agree
1. for finger strength
2. core, simulating greater forces e.g.hard cut loose
3. static stuff e.g. locks

[Houdini]

It's simple: basic, fingery, strong.

I get it.  The School is to crimps what the Indy (Anglesea) is to pinches.

. . . people will always look for a shortcut.

Which is pointless & a fine reason why the disparate knowledge be collated and published in one volume.

I dont agree.

aerili wrote: - The exercise science literature now evidences

The point of this thread.

[Paul B]

note the word movement, then re-read. Point 2 should be more about 'resisting'

[lagerstarfish]

Anyone know where one may purchase bodypacks (some vest that takes added weight) or whatever they are called?

Well, over on weightvest.com (yes really)..

"I use the vest twice a week while rock climbing, and I have successfully gone in 6 months where most climbers go in 2 years. The vest is everything I hoped, and more. My strength and fitness gains are thru the roof, and the V-Max vest increases the intensity of my workouts by ten fold. The great design allows me to climb safely without worrying about harming my body. If I fall the symetrical layout of the vest allows me to land safely. Thank you for the great design, and wonderful performance."
-Marc B., Gainesville Fl

So, he has knackered up both elbows, both shoulders, six fingers and destroyed his relationship in just 6 months instead of 2 years like the rest of us?

[Paul B]

he's from florida?

[lagerstarfish]

Check out this map with all the outdoor climbing venues in FL marked in red.
There aren't any

Where's the science?

[Houdini]

161 dollars.  82 pounds (not inc. p+p) for the lightest vest.  Hmmm . . .