[dave k]

Did this yesterday- Think it was Andy T who mentioned to me it was a soft touch 7c a while back, which was what i was after! I feel my way is not 7c- max 7b really. To be honest the staffordshire grade of 7a+ might be nearer the mark.

In favour of 7c grade are
-I have always trained on 45% boards and so it could suit me
-Peak District: Bouldering and Ru gives it 7c (since some holds broke)- not prone to soft touches
-8a.nu - none of the 8 ascentionists mention it being soft and all claim the 7c grade (which is unusual for 8a.nu)

I should probably just take the soft 7c and congratulate myself.

Whats your view?

[JC]

What was your way of doing it then? the usual method i think is sit start the flake, then left hand up to the crimp, then jump! anyway i reckon it is very overgraded though, probably right at 7a+/7b.
Regardless of the grade though its a really cool problem & i'd just be happy with the tick! 

[Duma]

you train on slightly less than half a board? 

[dave]

last time i looked at this the flake at the bottom was rotten and broken - maybe its kept breaking to leave a bigger hold that originally?

[steven82]

I think i have been trying this wrong by whta people are saying here, i was going up with my right hand first to a small but positive edge then flicking out left to the ok hold then jumping for the top, its felt quite hard, am i just being a total idiot with that way then

[dave k]

I started matched on the flakewith right hand on the best bit. The one pit of flake that is not rotten. Move left hand to very poor pocket, drop knee left foot, then reach with the left hand to the good crimp- can be done static, but more reliable with a bit of a throw. Then bring right foot up, place right hand on positive but awkward crimp. Bring right foot up slightly, then throw for the top- last move is probably the crux in my opinion.

If you start by reaching up to the crappy crimp with the right, then I can see why it might get a higher grade- but that would be making life unnecessarily tricky.

[dave k]

I meant bring left foot up, before the final throw.

[rainbow]

I started matched on the flakewith right hand on the best bit. The one pit of flake that is not rotten. Move left hand to very poor pocket, drop knee left foot, then reach with the left hand to the good crimp- can be done static, but more reliable with a bit of a throw. Then bring right foot up, place right hand on positive but awkward crimp. Bring right foot up slightly, then throw for the top- last move is probably the crux in my opinion.

If you start by reaching up to the crappy crimp with the right, then I can see why it might get a higher grade- but that would be making life unnecessarily tricky.

Bumped into you yesterday up at Wrights mate. Always thought 7c was a gift for this. I'll describe how it was originally done. Sit start both hands on sandy flake, right hand on upper part of flake, left on small slopey pocket, throw with left for crimp in break, and match. Left then went in mono/lock thing to the left of crimp, postion feet on little edges and throw with left for top (not where all the chalk is now) pic below. I've tried using chalked pebbles/crimps to the right in the break and it just seems a lot harder that way. Maybe its just me and my wack sequences. In the shade conditions were awesome today.

[AndiT]

It is soft at the grade, but I'm coming round to the fact that conditions perhaps play more of a role in the Churnet than at many other venues. I'd certainly say that Simple Simon, Sam Tam, Wright's Low and Point Break are all harder than Bizarre, yet graded easier, read from this what you will.

[al]

then throw for the top- last move is probably the crux in my opinion

agree dave, kept getting up there every time and flailing at the top - i'd say the sit down has also crumbled since then, although no harder - it was flexing/creaking last visit, or was that just greg behind me?

conditions perhaps play more of a role in the Churnet than at many other venues

also agree andi, it can be well sweaty, although I always end up there in the summer, and forget it stays dry in the grit season