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Electrical Storm (Read 2284 times)

Charles

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Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 10:44:19 am
Hi,
Anyone got the beta on this? I've tried it several ways, none of them very successful.

Cheers

dave

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#1 Re: Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 10:56:35 am
I and people i've seen do it have done it like this (though i know you can also go straight to the top of the groove or gaston the groove, these seem much harder to me):



the only other tip i could give is use the good foothold way our left for the first move - this means you can get the sloper comfortably and thus in exactly the right place, which then makes the move in the above photo doable. theres a sweet spot on the sloper that works well if you can get it right on the send.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 11:58:18 am
 This reminds me. Ned has done a lefthand finish to this. I think it's 7b, but can't recall exactly

Charles

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#3 Re: Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 01:12:07 pm
Is that a heel on in the photo? And the Left hand in the 'sweet spot' which i assume is the kind of crimpy bit you can get at the front of it?

I'll be out there in an hour anyway (i love having so few lectures!) so I'll give it a go. Cheers. The Rib is on the list today as well... oo-er.

dave

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#4 Re: Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 03:05:25 pm
Is that a heel on in the photo? And the Left hand in the 'sweet spot' which i assume is the kind of crimpy bit you can get at the front of it?

i think the foothold was a toe. and the handhold i seem to remember it being a bit of the sloper that felt ok rather than a crimp. good luck!

Charles

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#5 Re: Electrical Storm
February 13, 2008, 05:26:18 pm
That was good beta ta!

After pulling on I went, LH to good bit of sloper (which i still kinda crimped where theres a pebble, but am stronger on crimps than slopers so maybe just me), then right foot on to higher foothold, left heel into original left hand hold, RH to crimp out right, then LH slap up rib, then slap to top and traversed off. 

Cracking problem in my opinion, really nice line!

Also did Attitude Inspector - was suprised I committed to it as I only had one pad and no spotter!

Good session was had.

Cheers again!

 

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