[GCW]

Had a brief look at this today (as it's on my 2008 list).  Totally wrong conditions for anything, but at least the 300mph wind kept the rock dry.

I was pulling on LH mono, RH skin eating pocket.  Left foot up, sneaky toe on the ramp thing out right.  I was then going static to the sloper with my left.  It felt pretty awkward and needed an udge so I didn't stick the sloper.

I came home and watched the YorkshireGrit video.  I notice JonP pops to the sloper with RH and LF as I had them.  He almost looks like he jumps from the boulder (sorry Jon if you didn't, but this ain't a finger pointing thread).

Question:  I was going for what seemed to me the logical way of doing the problem.  What's the accepted method?  Bounce direct from the ground to get the sloper?  Or static from the ground?  I expect the bounce is easier, but what is the 7b appropriate to?

Cheers gang.

[cofe]

static from the floor. i seem to remember it's a steady move, but i think you can put your left foot higher than that and rock onto it more. then swap to right foot to match. you can crimp one of the slopers (right one?) and just jump from there. i'll try and dig out a pic. 

[cofe]

bit of a shit photo/scan but kim's got his left foot up on something.



it's a similar pic of the same problem that the bleaustone logo is from.

[GCW]

Yeah, that's roughly what I was trying.  I had my left foot where the chalk mark next to Kim's right knee is, and right toe hooking the rail bottom right.

But I'm LANKY.

[Bonjoy]

 The least skin shredding way is to use the toehook, get the the good hold (guy in pic has with his right hand) with left hand, cross onto sloper, move left foot up, release toehook and glide onto fininshing jug.
 Have also done it by matching the sloper but its much less pleasant and wrecks your tips.

[GCW]

Ah, interesting BonJoy.  I had thought of a cross through ever so briefly.
I suspect your beta may not be the best way for me- but there's only one way to find out.  Thanks.

[cofe]

Have also done it by matching the sloper but its much less pleasant and wrecks your tips.

don't remember it shredding tips. it's pretty solid wit the high foot. you must be weak.

[dave]

there seems to be a lot of cock&bull beta going around for what is essentially a very basic problem. its not a skin-ripper - the day i did it i'd already bust my skin up pretty bad and i had no skin issues on this.

[GCW]

You do it my way then Dave?   

[dave]

same as cofe.

[GCW]

Left foot into the higher mono foothold?  I must admit I didn't try it that way.  Next time I'm there I will.  I'll also take some bricks to hold the mat down.

[uptown]

there seems to be a lot of cock&bull beta going around for what is essentially a very basic problem. its not a skin-ripper - the day i did it i'd already bust my skin up pretty bad and i had no skin issues on this.

I agree with Bonjoy on the beta - it's possible static this way, no need to bypass the intricate technicalities with gangly lopping about...