The next step is a campus board which attempts to remove technique from the equation altogether so you can measure gains in strength.
[I can see where you are coming from. But there are other ways of improving technique at the wall, they just require discipline.
Quote from: GCW on January 09, 2008, 08:23:10 pm[I can see where you are coming from. But there are other ways of improving technique at the wall, they just require discipline. True, but they don't give measurable improvements.
They are quantifiable, but just on a binary scale, i.e. you can either do it, or you can't, whereas campusing and one-armers are perhaps a more quantitative scale if you see what I mean
whereas campusing and one-armers are perhaps a more quantitative scale if you see what I mean
Quote from: slack---line on January 10, 2008, 01:17:04 pmwhereas campusing and one-armers are perhaps a more quantitative scale if you see what I mean Not sure about that either. Yes, 1-4-7 is better than 1-4-6 but how do you know you're improving in between these steps? If you see my point.
Sounds like you're trying to quantify something that is not quantifiable. Technique certainly isn't all about pulling less.
There's always a balance between technique and power. Most moves can be done using POWER.
Quote from: GCW on January 10, 2008, 02:56:07 pmThere's always a balance between technique and power. Most moves can be done using POWER.
Bottom line is: power impresses chicks, while technique makes you look a bit effeminate.
I'm now wondering if there's any mileage in the opposite (ie a tool designed to de-emphasise strength)?I was thinking about something like connecting strain gauges to each hold on a boardwith a limit set so a buzzer goes off if you exceed a pre-set load.
Bottom line is: power impresses chicks, while technique makes you look a bit effeminate.word to that man.well thats what our macho brains would like to think.power is no substitute for more power etc..
Quote from: Dylan on January 10, 2008, 04:13:31 pmQuote from: GCW on January 10, 2008, 02:56:07 pmThere's always a balance between technique and power. Most moves can be done using POWER. I'd like to see that applied to lay by arete at slipstones