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Careless Torque repeat (Read 10717 times)

Houdini

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#25 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 08, 2008, 08:38:15 am
But let's not get carried away now,


this problem's antique and you'd think that being so close to wad town someone would've found time over the last decade+ . . .



Anyone for Cobalt Dreams then?

n_man

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#26 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 08, 2008, 05:30:29 pm
please don't taint my name with -man

It's not a tainting just a distinct lack of imagination.

he must know thats your name, just as ned is n-man.

Fabulous. If people think I'm Ned perhaps I'll be a little more forth coming with opinions.

Johnny Brown

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#27 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 08, 2008, 06:17:12 pm
Quote
What I'd really really like to see is people turning the lip/mounting the beast.

Tall man's sequence. Only the flexible need apply.


Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better footlhold with right foot, layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.


There used to be a vid of Andy Brown's ascent on the web somewhere, maybe on the Beardown site? Can't find it now.

Jim

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#28 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 08, 2008, 11:49:02 pm
I had that somewhere but think it got deleted due it being very low quality

Ena

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#29 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 09:41:53 am
I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.

Doylo

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#30 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 09:55:53 am
he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.

Adam Lincoln

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#31 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 09:59:09 am
he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.

Rascal?

dave

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#32 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 10:03:45 am
Tall man's sequence. Only the flexible need apply.


Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better footlhold with right foot, layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.

It sounds like Ron's beta is what i've tried, failing at the "boule over with RH" step. From the Ryan gif i can't make out how he goes from having LH pinch and RH sloper to having both hands on the arete and left foot really high. question?

GCW

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#33 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 10:11:53 am
I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.

I'd be interested.  Can you upload it somewhere?

Doylo

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#34 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 10:17:38 am
he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.

Rascal?

nah the pope  ::)

SA Chris

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#35 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 10:18:56 am
he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.

Ground upped?

Doylo

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#36 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 10:20:47 am
thats the one

Adam Lincoln

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Ena

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#38 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 12:06:59 pm
I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.

I'd be interested.  Can you upload it somewhere?

Download it here:

I won't leave it there for long, I'll remove it in a week or so. Cheers!

Ian

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#39 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 05:09:48 pm
Nice gif JB.  Who is it climbing?  Looks to me like a latter day Paul Pepperday.

philo

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#40 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 05:30:39 pm
good job ena with the vid.
sounds like the wind was a bit strong!

Johnny Brown

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#41 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 05:55:02 pm
Quote from: 'Dave'
From the Ryan gif i can't make out how he goes from having LH pinch and RH sloper to having both hands on the arete and left foot really high.

Well just so you have no more excuses, here you go, I've added a couple more frames.


Plus, here's the shot I meant to include with this:
Quote
Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better foothold with right foot (same foothold as ryan, but t'other foot), layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.


Quote from: 'fool'
Who is it climbing?  Looks to me like a latter day Paul Pepperday.

No, no, its Pepperday himself!

Fiend

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#42 Re: Careless Torque repeat
January 09, 2008, 06:00:05 pm
Good beta gif!

I guess being a bit flexible helps.

 

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