[Will Hunt]

Used this today to abseil inspect the protection on the route and was pretty concerned by the bolt at the top. I'm sure that its got rustier and you cant fit a standard modern krab through it comfortably.

Should we (the locals) replace this?

[BenF]

I didn't even know there was a bolt there Will.  Shows how long it is since I've done that route (with or without a rope).  Where is the bolt?  I remember years ago when I was dead young and we used to put a rope down the knife, we rigged a rope back to the dodgy looking tree.  Bit shit but it worked.

As for replacing the bolt?  That just ain't gonna happen is it?  And if it does, someone will chop it.  The pegs didn't last over the other side of the quarry and suggestions of rebolting the Breck were shouted down, the history of local climbing doesn;t include many bolts (with some obvious exceptions).  Obviously the best solution would be a double bolt belay at the top of the Knife; limiting erosion, tree damage and making it safe.  Again, that won't be greeted with much joy by some people.

In the absence of decent bolt belays the current solution works - trees where available and metal fences where not (just don't tell the Water Board).

On a side note, aren't conditions at Pex amazing right now?

[Andy F]

As it's just an abseil bolt then go ahead IMHO, but check that it's not just the hanger that needs replacing rather than putting a completely new bolt in.

[Will Hunt]

On a side note, aren't conditions at Pex amazing right now?

Haha! I take it you're just talking about the Pisa eliminate area which I suppose is in good nick. The Knife however is a complete washout and  couldn't even link it. Lady Jane which is my favourite is a bit shit too but didnt really have a close look.

I dont reckon a fuss would be caused by the replacement of a bolt that was generally accepted and used by many. The bolt is actually on top of the quarry and not on the route at all, simply there as a belay tool. Unlike the pegs that were on Pex Wall (a few of which survived if you look closely enough methinks).

[andy popp]

I don't think it should be replaced

[BenF]

The Knife was dry on Friday by the way.  As were most things on green wall and Pisa.  And before anyone asks, it was me that pulled a hold off Catalepsy.  Luckily it doesn't really affect the climbing.  I was hanging off the big pocket contemplating topping it out and I gently pulled on a big pebble just up and left of the pocket.  The pebble just popped out leaving a good edge.  I've still got the pebble if people think it should/could be glued back.  Personally I feel it's probably best to leave it as it doesn't alter the grade or the moves really.

As for the bolt, Ewan explained today that it's used for directing the rope from above.  Never noticed it myself, or if I did I must have dismissed it as either crap or pointless.  I'm with Andy, best left well alone.  Pex doesn't need anymore bolts and certainly not replacements for not that useful ones.  So Will, I really hope you were using other belays and not just the dodgy bolt.  Get a spare rope and rig up to the trees.

[Will Hunt]

I really hope you were using other belays and not just the dodgy bolt

 

Ah the folly of youth. I had it backed up on that spike I guess.

[BenF]

That may be alright.  I guess...