[Kingy]

I have searched for old threads on this but could not find anything on it although i could have sworn I read something about it ages ago 

Anyway, once you have got the crimp with the RH like Quentin has in TPOC, how do you get the sidepull with the RH on Jericho Rd? Do you swing your foot into the break after you have got it or before?

Also, before this it seems desparate to get established on the slopers before the move Quentin in is on. Do you campus this bit? one move in particular where you lock a small RH sloper and move your left hand across to a big fat sloper (the one you go off to get the aforementioned RH crimp) was shutting me down. Mind you it was about 25 degree heat on saturday so probably not surprising! 

[dave]

i can't remember the exact position of the TPOC photo, but heres my sequence as best I can remember it.

basically campus the first few moves on those nice dishes, till you can put a foot on and get that nice rounded crimp for the RH (its a bit below the line of the slopers), then put RF on and sag into the good sloper (above and left of the crimp) with left hand. then make a big move over right past a nice sloper for that uberpositive crimp with RH (RF in same place). then put left heel up in front of you on an obvious scoop and sit on it to bring LH over to the nice sloper in front of your face. then dog RH right a few inches to a flat bit (might need a brush) to enable to you bring LH into match the uberpositive crimp (again still sat on that left heel), then swing right heel onto the jericho road ledge, get JR sidepull, sit on heel to get JR incut then you're good. Caveat: no-one else I know does it like this.

[Kingy]

Nice one dave. That sounds bang on, I hadn't got a clue how you would get your LH on the uberpositive crimp as it would be a desparate finger change but that clarifies matters. Have wired Jericho now so will try next time I'm down!

[Andy Harris]

I have a nice sequence that minimises any footlessness. However it seems so complex in words you might struggle to understand it. oh well here goes anyway.

Jump to start hold and put RF in v polished dish directly below hands.
RH to send 3 finger edge
LF to edge immediatel right of dish (almosta  foot swap)
- you now keep this 1 foot on for the next 5 hand moves (ie. until RH on slopey edge & LH on poor sloper.
RF low edge almost under roof
RH to positive edge
LF slopey edge on zippys traverse
LH next sloper
cutloose & LF to incut edge dwon & left
RF heel hook ledge
LH cross under to small slopey edge
sit on heel and in to sidepull

By the way Moffatrocity footless was never done and would be a good tick for any footless beasts out there (8a+/b). Jerich footless from the shelf is 8a on it's own

[Kingy]

Great stuff cheers Andy! haven't quite got my head around the beta but I'm sure at the crag all will become clear. I am intrigued as to how much this lot will add to JR, as that's hard enough as it is!

As for the footless project, pass the sick bucket! the very thought appalls. even JR footless must be a mission. mind you, footless climbing is something of a black art to me. 

[n_man]

If you climb Moffatrocity R to L and do the Superman/Hulk finish what grade does it get?

(Apologies to those of you that have read this twice  )

[Andy Harris]

I guess this depends where you start moffatrocity. Theoretically you would have to jump or climb from the floor to the last holds of jerico road (the last part of this problem) then head leftwards.

I guess maybe what you mean is start ON the big shelf then directly reverse the traverse of moffatrocity into said problem. Given the finish of this hulk is OK i would expect similar grade to moffatrocity (7c).

There is however an alternative finish that goes directly up from the 1st jug on Moffatrocity. John Welford did this some years ago (can't remember grade) and then linked from superman start to a big slap with RH to moffatrocity jug (7c+/8a). I guess this is now impossible due to superman sidepull snapage but the finish is probably still ok (7b+)

[n_man]

True I did mean start on the big shelf. Would love to see someone jump to the last holds of Jerico though - I'd pay a fiver.

I've done the John Welford prob going up from the first hold on Moffatrocity, would be a good link doing the traverse R to L first. This may sound desperate/trivial but its just a case of finding new and DRY things to do at the moment!!!

[dave]

a more obvious link would be to do zippy's traverse into this finish.

[r-man]

Doesn't Pink Indians go up from the end of zippy's? Big sloper both hands, up to poor lh crimp, stick r heel on, lock up to good rh hold etc?

Must be 7c-ish to to link zippy's into this?

[n_man]

Is Pink Indians the name of the Welford problem Andy couldn't recall?

[r-man]

Maybe, but the one I'm talking about isn't 7b+ from the sloper. It was shown to me as 7b, but felt on the soft side. Still, linking from Zippy's is hard work.

[steven82]

is this really 7c?? what are peoples thoughts, it feels quite a bit easier than other 7c's i have been on. just wondered what peoples opinions would be.

[dave]

i thought people reconed 7b+ these days.

[steven82]

yeah that was my thoughts on the grade but wasnt really sure what the general thoughts were on it, as i keep seeing people log it on 8a.nu as 7c.

[r-man]

Haven't done it, but I always thought it was 7c. For me, it's as hard as Powerband. I find the Jericho crux really frustrating on the link.

[Paul B]

Haven't done it, but I always thought it was 7c. For me, it's as hard as Powerband. I find the Jericho crux really frustrating on the link.

I put it down as 7C but comparing it to Seans i'd have to say its a bit easier, 7b+ seems right. As hard as powerband? are you in your right mind?

[Jaspersharpe]

No hard moves but quite hard to link was what I always thought.

7B+ is fair.

[steven82]

never really tried powerband i just dont like it, but compared to rockattrocity and stuff like that its a walk in the park surely, i think 7b+ is fair