[TobyD]

(or Dourbie, or Jonte)

Considering a trip in October: I've been before in August and thought it was ok; anyone been at this time of year (Autumn) and know what conditions are like towards later October?

I already know Cantobre could be a good option if it is too cold in the Tarn - anyone been? Any route recommendations (7a-8a ish) at any of the 3 Gorges? Any beta for good van camping spots?

Finally, what's the situation with bolts/ access? Are sectors such as Le Grand Toit open again now?

[jwi]

Well, last year we had 27-30°C in late October... but it should usually be good, if a bit on the cold side, or so I hear.

The campgrounds close in mid October. Almost all restaurants and bars in Les Vignes are closed. Everything else as well. The police stop patrolling the valley looking for people who sleep in the car.

Boffi in Millau is a good option if it is too cold in Tarn. Big area with lots of routes. Only been there one day, mind.

The bolts are awesome. Almost all sectors are open, except Grand Toit, which is officially closed. One or two routes have been removed from Grand Toit, and if you absolutely need to climb there you need the old thin guidebook (a scan is floating around on the internet).

[jwi]

Did I manage to convey how absolutely deserted it's going to be after October 15? That's both good and bad.

[TobyD]

Boffi in Millau is a good option if it is too cold in Tarn. Big area with lots of routes. Only been there one day, mind.

The bolts are awesome. Almost all sectors are open, except Grand Toit, which is officially closed. One or two routes have been removed from Grand Toit, and if you absolutely need to climb there you need the old thin guidebook (a scan is floating around on the internet).

Got the old guide from going there in 2009. I'd like to go back to do Little Big Boss which I got close to on that trip, as i remember it being really good. Also went for a rest day look at Boffi on that trip: little tricky to find it if i remember right?
As long as its aound 12 degrees give or take I''ll be happy; much sub ten degrees and Ill be heading South!

[jwi]

I'm pretty sure that the bolts are still in on Little Big Boss.

If you arrive after mid October you'll need to stop buy in Millau to get the new topo (it has more than twice as many routes in it). The tourist information in Millau has it. You can get it in the convenience store/bakery in Rosier as well. If you arrive before mid october you can get it in the campgrounds I think.

[T_B]

I was there last week in August a few years back and the campsite was half shut up by the time we left. Could be great that time of year though, we couldn't climb on the south facing crags in August...

[jwi]

The days are short, but it's nice to be in the valley without all the motorcycles, all the traffic, the noise etc. If I went there for a week in October I'd stay in a Gite / apartment /hotel.

This Gite d'etape is super-nice: http://www.lesfleurines.fr (though not cheap, but that's hard to find around Tarn) They have a pretty well equipped kitchen. Make sure you let the hosts cook for you at least once. Again, not cheap, but better than any resturant in Vignes or Rozier

[petejh]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one.

Planning a week's sport trip in early-mid April. Needs to be somewhere with decent quality 5s to mid 6s for girlfriend. We both want to go somewhere in France. Thinking Gorge du Tarn. Had a scan on ukc logbook of the routes and it looks like there's enough to go at in the lower grades - can anyone add any knowledge? Or suggest a better area.. I'll be after mid-high 7s, I'll hopefully be into a PE phase by April so would use the trip for short PE training.

[jwi]

In George du Tarn, the 6s are as good as the 8s. I.e. very good. I've heard that the 5s are good as well. Vert popular among Germans/Austrians/Swiss climbers operating in those grades.

[cjsheps]

You'll have a great time Pete!

The 6s are excellent, and there seemed to be many sectors with high-quality easier routes.

I think you might end up doing split days though, as the best harder crags don't have that many low 6s. There are a few exceptions, namely Tresor de Zebre and l'Oasif.

[ghisino]

Everything i've climbed There was excellent regardless of the grade and possibly the least walking I've ever done...you can easily climb in two neighboring sectors.

The style is a really good compromise, mostly on relatively large incut pockets that don't require too much feel/conditions, but not boringly straightforward... half way in between margalef and céüse if that makes any sense...

Oh an Jonte's multipitches are great fun as,well

[TobyD]

Thinking Gorge du Tarn. Had a scan on ukc logbook of the routes and it looks like there's enough to go at in the lower grades - can anyone add any knowledge? Or suggest a better area.. I'll be after mid-high 7s, I'll hopefully be into a PE phase by April so would use the trip for short PE training.

Tarn would be great choice.It may work well for you two to be doing your stuff at different sectors, but there are some combine-able locations. As others have noted, 3 or 4 sectors in a day is fine, plenty of it it is pretty roadside (similar walk in to the upper marine drive crags!) Planete Causse sector would be good for your grades, although the climbing there (and a lot of Tarn generally) is more long PE to full stamina orientated. message me if you want any specific recommendations. We got a really plush gite, which wasn't very expensive, again if you want details give me a shout. Sector Grand toit is totally climbable on - lots of French locals there despite 'official' line that it is banned. I got the impression this was temporary landowner grumpiness.

[TobyD]

de que fas aqui is good for all grades, and a nice crag but it is full on enduro I'm afraid! (although arachnide if i remember rightly was fairly techy - pe oriented)