[r-man]

Sounds good...

Katz has made a super impressive ascent of the project prow at Gorple. This must be one of the best hard problems on grit. Nice one.

In between bouts of extreme DIY and rock n roll partying (as detailed in Dunning's blog!), I've turned 30, ouch! and climbed a big project at Gorple!

My new problem is on boulder 3, problem 1 in the old YBG- it's a belter! I've named it 'Chabal' after the French Rugby monster, as both are big, hard and tricky to take down! The problem goes from a sit start and finishes in the big 'hueco' on top. It's involved, with some 'proper' climbing on it- knee bars and heel hooks etc, as well as some horrendous slopers!

The rock at Gorple is a little gritty and needs careful cleaning in between attempts. I worked the project off a step ladder prior to my ascent (I got some funny looks from walkers and sheep! as I toiled along the 20 minute walk in with a step ladder sticking out of my pad!). I'm not sure about the grade, as unusually for grit it has alot of different climbing on it and also because of the nature of the rock, maybe 8a+??

As do these...

Managed a couple of new problems at the Buckstone boulder. This is the large boulder in the field opposite Earl crag car park. Well worth a visit with a dozen or so good problems. The first problem is one of the best new problems I have done for ages. Unusually for grit its really involved with about a dozen compression moves up a stunning prow. Just to the right of this line I picked off another problem, much more brutal but shorter lived.

I managed to make the second ascent of Steve's problem 'No Mercy' 8a at the Buckstone (Earl Crag) this week. It's a fantastic problem and I'm a bit gutted I didn't find it first! You've gotta hand it to the Ginger Meanie! Check out the pics on Steve's Blog.

And this...

Last week I managed to get out on the grit after school and managed to climb a new problem at Earl Crag, which I had scoped out over the summer. 'Colt 45' 7c is the project line on boulder 31, problem 2 in the YBG, it's a great line with technical and tricky moves. I'm still amazed that such quality problems are still waiting to be done!

[GCW]

The usual pre-guidebook flurry of problems.  I ain't complaining mind.  Good efforts by the guys!

[SA Chris]

Every time i go to Earl I look across at that boulder and wonder if there's anything good on it. Now at least I know.

Good effort all round.

[Houdini]

Where is Dunnings' blog?


And who is this Mark Katz fella?

[Darren S]

You can read Steve and Mark's blogs at the Scarpa website.

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/

[Jaspersharpe]

I just wasted two minutes of my life reading Daniel Kennard's blog cos I had no idea who he was. RAD!, SYKE! I feel so very old (and still have no idea who he is and even less inclination to find out).

Great looking problems by the way.

[Houdini]

I feel so very old

That's because you probably are...     Don't you have a young wife to molester?

[dave]

presumably "SYKE!" means he's dyslexic and really keen on the Inner Hebrides. Also keep and eye open for MLUL, JRUA and EGIG.

[Jaspersharpe]

I feel so very old

That's because you probably are...   

If the text under your amusing little picture is correct then you are in no position to talk, old man.

Actually I do feel particularly old at the moment. I can't believe how a humble cold has fucked up my training for nearly two weeks. I used to just climb through shit like this but now..... It's certainly not RAD and I aint fucking SYKED.

[Sloper]

Back on topic.

I recently did the wall to the left of the Punklet claimed as 'Thumbing your Father' as a highball V3 or E2 6a in old money.  Since this isn't in the guide and the doubts over the FA remain does anyone have any first hand knowledge of this being done (and we're not talking about John Wleford's problem)?

I also climbed the wall to the left of Ice Boat, no idea of the grade as I got a little scared but probably no harder than highball V2 or E2 5c/6a.

[Johnny Brown]

wall to the left of the Punklet claimed as 'Thumbing your Father' as a highball V3 or E2 6a in old money.  Since this isn't in the guide and the doubts over the FA

Jeezus! You're like a stuck record! Yes it has been done, by somone sufficiently talented that he can't grade at that level, and sufficiently modest that he'd rather see a joke name get into a guidebook than crack one off over his own. End of.

[Jaspersharpe]

Sloper has already started two threads about this. 

Although, in fairness, one got no replies and the other degenerated into the usual nonsense about V grades and spaghetti. 

[Somebody's Fool]

Succint as JB's ranting was, it's a bit glowing for my tastes.  Talented?  Maybe.  Modest?  You must be joking.  The whole episode was nothing more than the wayward actions of a smutty numb-nut. 

This 'Jeremy Largeman' sounds like the wanking chimp of the climbing community.

[Sloper]

Jeezus! You're like a stuck record! Yes it has been done, by somone sufficiently talented that he can't grade at that level, and sufficiently modest that he'd rather see a joke name get into a guidebook than crack one off over his own. End of.

As I said at the outset, my doubts are based on the error in the grade, the strange discription and the 'joke' name.  As for you point about the FA's modesty, why does anyone write anything up in the new route book in outside?

Perhaps you'd be so bold as to say who the FA is?  Or is it 'i know and you don't because I'm so cool and in with the scene'? 

As for your suggestion for the rampaging ego etc why not fuck off.

[Fiend]

[TomP]

 
As entertaining as it is reading banter and insults - how do threads nearly always go off topic and aviod the issue. I have read topics on this site for years but harldy post because threads start off meaningfully (usually) and rapidly degenerate. Don't get me wrong, I like reading what people have to say and what is going on in the (usually peak) climbing world.

I think start a thread to arrange times and places to meet face-to-face and sort out any grudges or misunderstandings

Fair play to Steve and Mark for their efforts. They look quiality problems and will have to check them out

Also I want to make clear Daniel Kennard is very sound and very strong. Why insult and try to humiliate someone who you don't know and clearly has sufficient talent to be sponsored by a reputiable company like Scarpa.

[Jaspersharpe]

Also I want to make clear Daniel Kennard is very sound and very strong. Why insult and try to humiliate someone who you don't know and clearly has sufficient talent to be sponsored by a reputiable company like Scarpa.

Er. Who did that? He writes a public blog. I read it and mentioned that his use of language made me feel old. From here it is rather a big leap to say he was being "insulted and humiliated". And who mentioned anything about the validity of his sposorship!?

  indeed.

By the way I don't know what "reputiable" means.

[TomP]

OK. Maybe insulted & humiliated was a bit strong but I was trying to point out that certain comments would seem slightly harsh if they were directed at you. I'm not saying they were ment to be so lets all get on with our lives.



Anyway, I'm really trying to stay on topic but it's much fuckin harder than I thought! There's lots of new stuff being done in Yorkshire at the moment, which is great to see. Yorks., IMO, is so much better than the Peak but very happy if people don't realise this FACT (that should stir things up a bit!). There are some really strong, good climbers and very friendly people - it's a great thing to be part of.

P.S. Jaspersharpe - I'm glad you know what reputable means, you must be very proud and have a great vocabulary. It also seems that you know sarcasm too - so do I !

[andy_e]

Shouldn't you be working, 9-5 boy? 

[TomP]

Yep. It's great having your own office though - I just think about climbing instead (which is avery shit alternative to the real thing)!

[Sloper]

So then; who is the modesty mystery maestro who put up Thumbing Your Father?

[Stubbs]

if you start another 4 or 5 topics here and on UKC maybe the mystery first ascentionist will appear?  Or maybe you could stop repeating yourself....

[Sloper]

I suppose, unlike all you heros, my telepathic powers are below par so I'll never know.

[Jim]

For god sake somebody's fool just tell sloper who did it then he can shut the fuck up.
Why is it so important to know??? are you going to confront them, demand to know why they overgraded another highball V2 at stanage. no one cares.

whats a heros btw?

[lagerstarfish]

I think start a thread to arrange times and places to meet face-to-face and sort out any grudges or misunderstandings

I am tickled by the idea of having a "step outside and sort it out like men" child board, with the results posted after each event.
This must be the ultimate way of settling on grades. None of this namby-pamby reasonable discussion leading to a consensus bollocks; democracy is soooo 20th century. 
What was the origional topic? I forgot...

[Monolith]

Grit sends people west.

[andy_e]

whats a heros btw?

A god of the underworld....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heros

[Mark Lloyd]

I just wasted two minutes of my life reading Daniel Kennard's blog cos I had no idea who he was. RAD!, SYKE! I feel so very old (and still have no idea who he is and even less inclination to find out).

Great looking problems by the way.

Well you might have bumped into his step Dad (Rob) on the southern sandstone when you were a lad
who had the cheek to repeat Second Generation as well.

[Sloper]

No I'm not bothered about 'confronting' someone for giving the problem the grade that they did, after all their grade could be correct and mine could be way out, afterall I'm not known for my ability to grade flour or anything else for that matter.

[Jim]

well speaking as a master baker, I can grade flour. However I am really not bothered what grade thumbing your father is

[Tommy]

Back on track - a couple of things I and others did this summer round by the Cowper Stone.

Carry on walking round from the Chips/Pie/Pea buttress and after 100m you'll come to a big 8ft roof. There's a lovely/'orrible looking flare thing that starts at the lip. Sit start this, from a hanging handjam and somehow get to the top: "Savage Me Softly" - which I originally thought was V5, but since going back... probably a bit harder. Project from the back of the roof, via a HUGE span and super-human body tension will probably be done (never?!).

Also... carry on walking another 50m and you come to a nice looking strip roof on a 3m high boulder. Sit start from the left with tricky mantle finish; "Fly Frisching" V6/7 and also sit start the right hand arete and mantle top out: Un-named Font 6c+. The project up the middle has been tried but not done - maybe about 7b??

All are great little problems and good additions to the already superb bouldering at the Cowper Stone.

Anyone done "Happy Amongst Friends" by the way? I.e. the new-ish Dawes thing? JB?

[Tommy]

Also - in case no one had seen it somewhere at the back on some routes section in a mag:

Fall of Grace, E6 6b. Rivelin Quarries.

[SA Chris]

whats a heros btw?

A god of the underworld....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heros

I thought they were Greek Doner Kebabs?

[Johnny Brown]

Anyone done "Happy Amongst Friends" by the way? I.e. the new-ish Dawes thing? JB?

No, tried it a few years back, got to a point where you do a big reach off jams, couldn't work out what to do next. A good highballish porblem is to start as for Sad Amongst, then from the position Johnny is on the cover of the old Stanage guide, instead of the crux frog move reach up and right to the flutings left of Snug..., gain these and reverse down snug. FA Jimmy Snaghands. Sorry, couldn't resist. Good problem.

I'm not sure the distances from the cowperstone to those roof probs is as far as 100 and 150 m. From memory this would take you out into the bog. Shouldn't stop anyone finding 'em though, good fun stuff, usually have to evict a sheep or two from the landings.

[Somebody's Fool]

Sloper, yhm.

[nathan wind]

I just wasted two minutes of my life reading Daniel Kennard's blog cos I had no idea who he was. RAD!, SYKE! I feel so very old (and still have no idea who he is and even less inclination to find out).

sounded like a cheap shot at a young and talented climber to me..

[Jim]

at the fact he can't write or spell?

[Jaspersharpe]

sounded like a cheap shot at a young and talented climber to me..

Really? Well I'll consider my hands well and truly slapped then. Jesus fucking Christ if I wanted to have a pop at someone then I'd do so. Commenting on someone's "writing style" is obviously not allowed now as a bunch of over touchy girls [cheap shot] will take exception. Grow up.  

[Somebody's Fool]

British climbing mag editors should shove Gresham off their pages and get Dobbin in instead.  People know how to climb by now, and Gresham's superfluous ramblings are no longer needed.  No, what the strong youths need in this day and age is 'Ben Morton's Blogging Masterclass'. 

Climbing doesn't happen on The Castle campus board/woody any more, it happens on the internet.  Future generations need to be able to communicate clearly via the net.  We need English words for English blogs.

That Pear of Joy twat could learn a thing or two about posting regularly as well.

[Greg C]

at the fact he can't write or spell?

Hang on, you just started that sentence without a capital letter, outrageous!! 

[BenF]

Hang on, you just started that sentence without a capital letter, outrageous!! 

Did you really need two exclamation marks there Greg?   

Overuse of exclamation marks is typical of the dumbing down and text speakisation of our precious language.  (I really hope that I don't need to add a winking smiley there)

[Houdini]

wtf? 

[BenF]

lol   ;-)

[TomP]

Commenting on someone's "writing style" is obviously not allowed now as a bunch of over touchy girls [cheap shot] will take exception. Grow up.  

 

[Jaspersharpe]

Commenting on someone's "writing style" is obviously not allowed now as a bunch of over touchy girls [cheap shot] will take exception. Grow up.  

 

I admit defeat. How can I fail to see the error of my ways in the face of such well constructed, eloquent reasoning. I apologise wholeheartedly for my offensive behaviour and bow to your superior intellect. Here, have wad point while you're at it. 

[Yossarian]

A blog is a piece of writing, yes? So surely it's fair to criticise it on the quality of the writing? If you're going to write a blog telling a load of people about all the exciting and/or non exciting things that you're doing, you need to realise that you're setting yourself up for criticism... Thus a crap climber who writes intelligently and sensitively about conquering his fear on Welsh VDiffs is, in my mind, the more worthy blogger than someone who is listing a load of (maybe) newsworthy stuff about his amazing feets of finga powa at Magik Woode, innit. People might want to read that to hear about what that person is doing / has done, but if you're going to put your writing in the public domain and it's shit then sooner or later someone is going to (quite reasonably) criticise it...

[TomP]

I admit defeat. How can I fail to see the error of my ways in the face of such well constructed, eloquent reasoning. I apologise wholeheartedly for my offensive behaviour and bow to your superior intellect. Here, have wad point while you're at it. 

Have a wad point for being a good sport old chap. 

[a dense loner]

TomP wrote:
As entertaining as it is reading banter and insults - how do threads nearly always go off topic and aviod the issue. I have read topics on this site for years but harldy post because threads start off meaningfully (usually) and rapidly degenerate. Don't get me wrong, I like reading what people have to say and what is going on in the (usually peak) climbing world.

i particularly like these references after reading everything you've posted since.

[Bonjoy]

This 'Jeremy Largeman' sounds like the wanking chimp of the climbing community.

Sheffielder´s who can´t figure out the FAs identity from that name don´t deserve telling! 

[slackline]

This 'Jeremy Largeman' sounds like the wanking chimp of the climbing community.

Sheffielder´s who can´t figure out the FAs identity from that name don´t deserve telling! 

Of course its Germane Jam Rely 

[Jaspersharpe]

A Jangle Me Merry

[Somebody's Fool]

If anyone wants to know who this Largeman is, I've made up a cryptic clue:

True reply he arranged finally reveals identity. (5,6)

[Sloper]

This 'Jeremy Largeman' sounds like the wanking chimp of the climbing community.

Sheffielder´s who can´t figure out the FAs identity from that name don´t deserve telling! 

Of course, I get it now! I'm not part of the clique. Sincere apologies.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

If anyone wants to know who this Largeman is, I've made up a cryptic clue:

True reply he arranged finally reveals identity. (5,6)

Nice try but Terry Heelup is almost as ridiculous and obviously made up as Largeman.

[andy_e]

Does Jeremy Largeman know Unreal Goose Bummer?

[AndiT]

If anyone wants to know who this Largeman is, I've made up a cryptic clue:

True reply he arranged finally reveals identity. (5,6)

Very good, got it! Do me some more now, before my minnow soils itself.

[Jim]

moi aussi, and I can't even do crosswords

[lagerstarfish]

A Jangle Me Merry

Shit, isn't that John deMontjoy?