[dave]

Bo.

We were out at Burbage last nite (for JohnnyBrown thats the place you drive past on the way to Stanage) and spent some time on the block at the terrace/Jason's area. Personally i really rate this bit of burbage, some of these problems are amongst the best on grit IMHO. However there seems to be a dirth of info really about whats done here (the guide only got the 3 easiest problems), who goes where etc, and I'm a bit curious about in general how many people go here and what gets done.

I'll try to sum up what i recon is here, with a couple of questions (in italics): From left to right...

• Diagonal jamming crack (easyish)
• The Terrace V10/7c+ (Huffy)
• Roof Crack VFun
• Jason's Undercling V? (J.Myres)
• Standing start to jasons V5/6? (given B9)
• B7 hanging arete V? Which side do people do this on and where to start?
  
• Sitting (as for Jason's) into B7 arete V8? Again which side done on?
  
• B8 overhang V? (starting from big hold in roof)
• Stitting (as for Jason's) into B8 overhang V7/8?

I know in the past Mark has posted stuff about the low starts into these probs, so he might be able to shed some light, and if anyone has any general comments about this area/problems/what you've done, then lets hear 'em, will satisfy mine and Scouse's curiosity about this underrated place. Maybe a online topo will be good (not that i want to make more work for Bubba you understand...)

Shamone.

[Bubba]

Dave, if you got a piccy and can draw the lines on it then I can post it on this thread, then when folks have had a chance to get the lines right, I can incorporate it into the upcoming (yes, really, it *will* happen one day) super topo system...

[dave]

Bo, I'll take a pic next time i'm there (was too dark last nite really by the time we strolled up) when its sunny hopefully. Anyone else got ni comments?

[dobbin]

Sorry, its been 6th month review time for me (going to be a dancer at Manumission from now on), I love that bit of Burbage too, particularly the Sphinx and that bit that Jason's undercling is on.

Seems that you know the problems there either through hear'say (although I haven't seen them for ages so I don't know whats been done (tee hee!)) or through some Topos that exist here on UkB. So - yes, get a photo topo done, I'm looking forwards to when I can climb there again.

I've really only tried the stuff that you mentioned - and the sphinx of course.

[dave]

so do you know what side people tend to do the B7 on? last nite we did a sit start into the left hand side of the B7 arete, (using the high pinch on jason's to climb the arete) which was excellent. Dunno if this is the normal wayt to do the arete though....

anso has anyone done (or even got off the ground) the terreace, maaan thats hard - too hard for me.

[Johnny Brown]

have done a few of these but seem to run out of reach on Jase's undercling 'ting.

haven't put that much effort in tho' - its only a warm-up crag for the real deal.

[dobbin]

Re the B7, is that the thing round to the right of Jason's where you go with your right up to a big jug then over the lip to the right? thats the only way I've ever tried it.

Re the Terrace, have done the first two and the last two moves but not put it together. ITs all in that left heel though - if you get it right it ain't so bad. Think like the Lou Ferrino - slap hard and fast!

[dave]

Hard to know what the crack is with the B7 since the guide just says climb the arete. The way we did the B7 from standing was starting with RH on bottom of arete, LH on poich on jasons, pull on and work RH up arete.

The sitting into this we did start as for jasons, go up right for crimp (next to the big hold but in a better position), LH up on arete of roof, go again for the good bullet wound on the lip with toe hook on the "keel", then either finish right as for the "B8" or harder is slap round left for the pinch on jasons (heel hugging etc) then finish as described above for the B7. Hope that makes sense!

Think i nearly managed the first move once last winter. Its actually a good problem to do the last 2 moves from standing (LH on bullet dish, RH on hanging crimp) which rich heap/andy harris saying was font 7b, but it not all that hard, 7a?

[mark]

[*]Diagonal jamming crack (easyish)
[*]The Terrace V10/7c+ (Huffy)
[*]Roof Crack VFun
[*]Jason's Undercling V? (J.Myres)
[*]Standing start to jasons V5/6? (given B9)
[*]B7 hanging arete V? Which side do people do this on and where to start?
[*]Sitting (as for Jason's) into B7 arete V8? Again which side done on?
[*]B8 overhang V? (starting from big hold in roof)
[*]Stitting (as for Jason's) into B8 overhang V7/8?
[/list]

Agree that it's a great little spot. Here's what I can add to the communal knowledge...

I've always started the hanging arete with both hands on the bulletholed slopey edge just right of the base of the hanging arete. Pull up and rock round left, pinching the arete and laying your way up the left hand side. I don't use the pinch on Jason's but if you can reach it and it helps then go ahead. I reckon the problem is about V6 or 7, though properly cold conditions help a lot. I've done the problem from sitting, starting just right of where you start Jason's then climbing up the steep right-hand wall to get to the obvious big hold then swinging left to the slopey edge. Finish as for the standing start. V8?

The problem right of the hanging arete I again start from the slopey edge then makes moves up and right to a  little corner/groove thing then use this and the arete to finish. Basically this is the hanging arete climbed on its right-hand side. I've also done it from the same sitting start as I detailed above. V6 from standing, V7 from sitting?

All the problems are very good, the sit start to the hanging arete on its left being one of my favourite problems anywhere. Don't think any of them have names which is a shame.

Never tried the sit start to the hanging arete by slapping  left hand along the lip of the roof as you describe. I climb up the steep right wall on a couple of crimps to the big jug then toe hook Jason's undercling to get the edge on the lip.

[dave]

I've always started the hanging arete with both hands on the slopey edge just right of the base of the hanging arete. Pull up and rock round left, pinching the arete and laying your way up the left hand side. I don't use the pinch on Jason's but if you can reach it and it helps then go ahead.

Cheers for that. Your way of doing the arete sounds harder from standing (our way is about V5 if that) but our way is probably harder to get into from the roof (massive slaps into jason's pinch) so probably both cancell each other out. I agree about V8 (font 7b/+?) from sitting, whichever method you cross the roof with (both very similar anyway). Great moves.

The problem right of the hanging arete I again start from the slopey edge then makes moves up and right to a  little corner/groove thing then use this and the arete to finish. Basically this is the hanging arete climbed on its right-hand side. I've also done it from the same sitting start as I detailed above. V6 from standing, V7 from sitting?

YEah we did this and its deffo eaiser than the above problem. About V7 from sitting. Don't think we used the arete but its all much off a muchness. did you used the massive groove-jug thing over right on the "B8"?


All the problems are very good, the sit start to the hanging arete on its left being one of my favourite problems anywhere. Don't think any of them have names which is a shame.

I think I've heard of people (maybe even you Dave?) doing the sit start to the hanging arete by slapping their left hand along the lip of the roof though I've never tried it that way.

Yeah i think it were me. only really use it once, and thats just as an intermediate really. As i said above its just really 2 methods of crossing the roof, whichever one feels best for you.  Could describe em as seperate problems really but seems bit daft, i'm not gary gibson. Cheers for the input anyway.

So now we got:

• Diagonal jamming crack (easyish)
• The Terrace V10/7c+ (Huffy)
• Roof Crack VFun
• Jason's Undercling V? (J.Myres)
• Standing start to jasons V5/6? (given B9)
• B7 hanging arete V6
• Sitting (as for Jason's) into arete V8
• B8 overhang V6 (starting from big hold in roof)
• Stitting (as for Jason's) into B8 overhang V7