ideally id like to not have any doubts as to whether my first 8a, if i manage it, is actaully 8a.
As a rule, to onsight 7b, the best practice is to onsight plenty of 7a+s and lots of 7as and hundreds of 6c+s. It's a pyramid thing and if you are consistently onsighting a given grade then you should have a 50/50 chance of getting the next grade up, which you can improve by choosing suitable routes. It's not really a mystery formula just a question of applying yourself and having a little patience!
Hi ksjs, were your 7b and 7b+ onsights Kalymnian? If so i think this may explain the discrepancy between the difficulties. Although lots of the grades have been amended there, they are still generally steep with big holds and rests and easy to read. CheersTim
I did my hardest onsights at siurana, think because they're quite "british"; nasty little crimps and stuff, quite cruxy, but usually fairly obvious what's to be done. That brilliant 7b+ Arbones classic (muerte de sponsor i think), and another 7b+ on campi qui pugui on the left hand side, left of cleptomania. I didnt onsight bistec, probably because i'm shit at bouldering.