[Big Frank]

I've just noticed this problem on ukbouldering called The Bull.

http://www.ukbouldering.info/media/images/chrisWheeldon03.jpg

But as far as I am aware there is not a problem there called The Bull. The Bull apeared in the OTE guide but it's location is a bit of a mystery.

The problem has always been documented previously as Leaning wall.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/slipstones__leaning_wall.jpg

That aside the problem is desperate and I take my hat off to anyone who can flash it.

[dave]

me and john did this in february. we did it from sitting, think it took a couple of goes, not flashed. I seem to remember the crux was the next move from the top photo, holding that heel hook to move the LH onto the arete, gotta squeeze that heel. Nice problem - the name is irrelevant really.

[Bubba]

Probably reclaimed after the FA or something - I'll bow to the superior local knowledge of the yg.com crew but I'll let Mr Wheeldon have a chance to give his opinions first...

[jonP]

It's in the 1999 YMC guide as "Leaning Wall".  Not sure if it's in the previous guide - I'll have a look later.

Dave's heelhook method doesn't work if you're a shortarse like me - it's a long way to the break from the lower foothold.

[dave]

i think we still did some foot movement before going for the break, like heel off and right foot up.

[Johnny Brown]

The sitter is absolutely classic, I even flashed it.
Sequences don't count for much on this kind of stuff, more like sustained hugging.
What an awesome crag though, can't wait to go again.
Roll on winter.....

lay-by arete would be the real tick for the flash - had an amusing half-hour watching vickers and parry totally fail on it. We refused to give them any beta and they (esp. Ian!) got well wound up until swiss Jvan went over and demonstrated - in trainers!
Ian still couldn't do it - must be that boreal rubber :wink:

Definitely in the top 3 for grit bouldering crags

[dave]

whats the deal with layby arete then, is it some heelhook on that little flake down right then?

[Johnny Brown]

Ha ha ha haa!
After what I wrote do you really think you're getting any beta??
 

[dave]

So thats a yes then.

I already know the beta, i was just testing you.....

[jonP]

Come on someone, spill the beans!

Leaning Wall was claimed in 1980 BTW.

[Bubba]

I've changed it to Leaning Wall - bit of a dull name though, innit?

[Johnny Brown]

Dave - if you really used a heel on that flake you have wierder techniques than I realised...

[dave]

don't think you can catch me out with the ol' double-bluff.....

my technique is the illest (not that i've actually done layby areye yet though...)

[Johnny Brown]

Ill would definitely be the word if your left foot popped whilst attempting said spazzy sequence.