[Fiend]

So. It's sodding cold out there. It's getting to prime grit conditions (routing anyway, still a bit warm for bouldering). I've got lots of locals to climb with. But my head and heart are still pulling holds off Dorys or cranking on crozzles above the Marine Drive.

Thus. I need to get psyched for grit again. Last year I proved to myself that I could climb grit and did several great routes. This year my ticklist is a bit smaller and the pressure is off a bit. But the prospect of all those slopers and smears, ick, it's frightening my timid soul. I can feel my skin shredding already.

Now. What can I do to get inspired. I think I will go bouldering in Yorkshire a bit, that's always good. I've got a few Stanage roofs that inspire me, and some esoteric odds and sods I feel like getting on with.

But. What else?? Fire me up with stuff, ideas, concepts, places. Not like "Go to X and tick Y", but more like themes of climbing to explore. More Dawes than Gresham, if you like.

Ta in advance.

[mini]

There was a thread on UKC about doing all Brown n Whillans routes at Ramshaw, Hen Cloud and Roaches in one day - could try that for starters to get you into the groove?

[Fiend]

Oh dear god, that's a bit much, it saw off a couple of very tall climbers.

Though, cracks, good one. It might be nice to climb something more challenging than HVS hand-jamming. And I won't be bothered about muffing onsights as I'd hate the damn route anyway.

[Paul B]

Allen and Bancroft routes?

[GCW]

It makes you dance in a certain way.....

Go to places you haven't been before.
Do routes with colours in their names.
Do routes you like the look of, before you read the guide.  Just go and look and try them.
Then have a nice pint of Bitter and chill out. 

Paul- 997:  you're sooo close to being a Forum Saddo Hero 

[AndiT]

I've been trying to do routes with daggers, atleast one each 'routing'day. There's plenty to go at.

Challenge days are good too, but you'll need to limit these as they're knackering. All the 3* HVS on Stanage, Brown n Whillans routes in Staffs or just a few days of soloing, properly, on your own, just to remind yourself why you love climbing grit, that'll get you going.

[butters]

... cracks, good one. It might be nice to climb something more challenging than HVS hand-jamming.

Bagsy those HVS jamming cracks - as a trade you can have those two beastly cracks at Chatsworth (if it's a crack and it gets E3 then fuck the onsight I say) and you could also start a short but quite probably entertaining career in off-width climbing. There you go - you get to do lots of horrible routes and as an added bonus you get to watch me flail in a pathetic attempt at climbing the things I profess to enjoy. Let me know what you think and I will punt the idea to Slackjaw so they can make a DVD of our collective trashings\thrashings - lets get down with god's rock and have a low grade bumble fest!! 

bluebrad

[SA Chris]

Have you been to many of the route crags in Yorkshire? Admittedly not as extensive as the peak, but there are many fine routes.

[butters]

Have you been to many of the route crags in Yorkshire? Admittedly not as extensive as the peak, but there are many fine routes.

If the walk in takes less than an hour then I would put folding money on the fact that Fiend has been to any Yorkshire crag you care to mention - it is his speciality - God help us all if he gets on Mastermind.

Name: Fiend
Specialised Subject: Bollox Esoteric Gritstone Crags in Yorkshire with a walk in of less than 1 hour. 

bluebrad

[Fiend]

Ta for the suggestions:

Allen and Bancroft routes?

Yeah right!! I'd be lucky to find one A&B route I could onsight surely??

Go to places you haven't been before.

Excellent, always a good option, I'm sure there are a few (see below).

Do routes with colours in their names.

Hmmmm....maybe...maybe not.

Do routes you like the look of, before you read the guide.  Just go and look and try them.

Not a bad idea, although I do tend to know too much to do this.

Have you been to many of the route crags in Yorkshire? Admittedly not as extensive as the peak, but there are many fine routes.

Only Almscliff, Brandrith, Brimham, Caley, Crookrise, Earl, Eavestone, Heptonstall, Ilkley, Rylstone, Slipstones. Which leaves me a few left to explore for routes - and a lot more bouldering to do. Definitely going to boulder more up there. Would also like to explore more at Great Wolfrey, Simon's Seat, Lord's Seat, Blackstone Edge etc. Nice one.

Exploration is always good.

I also feel inspired to learn about the rock, just playing around on it...

[SA Chris]

Check out Brown Beck too if you get a chance. Like Slipstones were in the late 90s. Probably walkable in under/just over an hour.
Simon Seat has some good routes, main crag faces due North so greens up quite early. The smaller buttresses stay in nick pretty much year round though. Might take a bit over an hour mind. Deer Gallows (good for soloing and you can do pretty much the whole crag in a day) and Eastby (like Crookrise only more sheltered and shorter approach) are recommended to your preferential attention too.

I never got to Brandith (always put off by odd access restrictions back in the day).

[Fiend]

Oops, forgot, have been to Deer Gallows and Eastby. And Hetchell.

Very varied, Yorkshire. A great place.

[webbo]

try baildon bank.the ulitimate urban experience.

[Fiend]

Jesus I am getting senile. Webbo is this what it feels like, forgetting things all the time??

Baildon, top crag, love it.

[rc]

How about going to the more continuous bits of stanage, the parts that probably already feel a bit too well known and uninspiring, and do a full rope length of the stanage traverse. No guide - it allows a bit of exploration and creativity.
See how much guidebook information you can spout as you cross each route - you can only put gear into routes you know the name and grade of, maybe that's too easy on the popular bits and you should also get the year of ascent or something.
Clock up the whole thing over the winter; mileage training if nothing else, and producing the info under stress while on lead will get you ready for mastermind.

[webbo]

Jesus I am getting senile. Webbo is this what it feels like, forgetting things all the time??

Baildon, top crag, love it.

no senility is when you forget what crag you are at when you are at it.not that this ever happens to me.





i tend to forget the way home.

[webbo]

what about scout hut crag there looks to be some short sharp little numbers there or widdop crag.ceiling crack is surely a must for a man of your stature.how much have you done at eavestones or were you put off after one visit.

[nik at work]

Went up to Blackstones last week with slopes. Some nice mid grade bouldering to be had. Didn't try any routes but my advice would be wait for a spell of two or three dry days before heading up there and take a big brush. Its as green as kermits cock.

[r-man]

Blackstones, yes, it's good fun. You've just reminded me to post some photos... http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8146.msg121882.html#new

[Sloper]

What about another trip next week?  Monday anyone?

[r-man]

What about another trip next week?  Monday anyone?

If anyone's going from Sheffield, I might be keen.

[Sloper]

I think we could organise a car load, what about Thursday this week or early next?

[nik at work]

Am going up tomorrow morning so will have a mega cleaning sesh.
Could also do thursday this week and monday next week.
As an added inducement I will offer tea, coffee and a variety of cake style products chez moi as a post climb re-energiser before people face up to the journey home.

Now try and tell me thats not a tempting offer...

[r-man]

As long as its not Tuesday or Friday, I'm game for the trip, this week or next, assuming we can get a decent sized group with a few pads for some highballs.

[Paz]

Rather than worrying about invisible smears, out of condition slopers, (or even an out of condition sloper ;-)) and skin shredding pebbles and tinies, surely this is the time to exploit what Grit does best:  Convenience.  This translates into mileage. 

You could go out and solo loads of routes you've never done before.  Not counting walls, I started climbing at burbage N (or was it Stanage, Dave, help) and always thought I'd done everything easy I could do in the easy days, but still found a shit load I'd not done before.  Apparently there is even bouldering away from Remergence and Banana Finger areas, but that's getting really keen. 

Disclaimer:  I wouldn't solo on most of Stanage of Froggatt wihtout being in exactly the right mood as it's death high, but most of Burbage (the bit you go to, not Ash Tree Wall or Knight's Move) I always tell myself I could get away with falling off (the cruxes anyway).  Wharncliffe, now I'm talking.  Staffordshire.  Kinder even (come on what did you buy your down for?).  You can always put a rope on if you want to do a nasty crack or something tenuous or hard anyway. 

You don't get a right lot hard done, but there's not many better tonics for your head than a shedload of ticks to get back into it. 

[r-man]

Baslow is brilliant for easy soloing. Lots of excellent short slabby routes. Stick a pad down and suddenly there's so much rock to just enjoy.

[butters]

Sloper - can't make this week as I am working nights but next Monday would be good for me - lift possibly available from Sheffield though bouldering mat space might be a bit limited.

bluebrad

[Sloper]

Looks as if Monday will be the day.

We can drag Fiend out and have a live exposition of a list of the top 50 E0's on grit.

If we're going from Sheff, who else is up for it?

[Fiend]

Looks as if Monday will be the day.

We can drag Fiend out and have a live exposition of a list of the top 50 E0's on grit.

If we're going from Sheff, who else is up for it?

Yessir that will be the one.

I will be up for it on Mon, definitely this time. This is on the condition I can try a couple of routes okay. No routes, no lift, no ranting about E0s. Actually I'm flexible on the ranting...

Will be back from Wales Sunday night and either at cider nutter's in Stoke or back in Sheff, if it's the former I can get up early and make a move back to Sheffield. Happy to give lifts to all and sundry in return for a bit of petrol money (you'll see why) and a tolerance to being forced to choose between E0 ranting and ear-sodomising drum'n'noise. Maybe. Will be in touch with sloper and or butters Sunday night??

[andy_e]

ear-sodomising E0 ranting drum'n'noise.

 

* andi_e opens cubase and samples fiend's rantings

[nik at work]

Well I'm going to be busy first thing but should be able to get up there for 11-ish which should be more than early enough. I'll also post an early morning weather report which is probably worth checking to save the innocent from a pointless hour and a half of earbleeding music coupled with mad ethical ranting in fiends car.

If people are interested I could be persuaded to make a post climb cheesecake, just make sure you all practice your CPR over the weekend....

[GCW]

I may have to see if I can get away from work early.  Sounds like a fun meet.

[r-man]

Cheesecake is my favourite cake; count me in. Can I have a lift, Fiend?

choose between E0 ranting and ear-sodomising drum'n'noise.

One vote for E0 ranting.

[Sloper]

OK Monday is goooooooooooooooooooo (where's the Murray Wanker smiley twat thing)

Fiend I hope your car is less sensible than mine.

Shall we say 9.30 at Waitrose?

(10 am at Lidl for any proles hoping to attned)

[nik at work]

Right who, if anyone, is coming to Blackstone tomorrow. I have cheesecake ingredients ready to go and if the weathers anything like today it should be a good session.

Lets say 4 definites (assuming good weather) and I'll break out the apron. You have until first thing tomorrow morning when I post the early morning weather report to bagsey your slice of cardiac destruction....

(GCW you're welcome to attend the cheesecakeing even if you can't get away from work early enough to climb)

[r-man]

I can't come anymore, unfortunately. Too much work. Hope everyone enjoys the cheesecake as much as I would have.   

[andy_e]

Lift from Leeds anyone?

[nik at work]

If you can get a train to Tod station I can easily pick you up from there if thats any help andi.

[GCW]

What time is all this action kicking off?  I may be able to get there about 1 or 2.  You guys still gonna be around?
Andi, if you get a train to Manchester I can give you a lift on the back of the bike

[nik at work]

I would have thought that by the time sloper has had his morning cigar and seven shots of coffee they won't leave sheffield area until 11 at the earliest, so by 1-ish we should just be lining up our first excuses. I think I'll go with "my knees are too small" this time and Tom will probably play the fat card as usual. I'm working in the morning and doubt I'll be up there before 12 at the earliest.

Andi the train too Tod should be very easy from Leeds, no connections or anything, and should also be pretty cheap as you stay within the west yorkshire do-dah. Apparently if you go outside of this prices suddenly go up. Can you bear to travel with the hoi-polloi on public transport though? If you want to get the train let me know and I'll PM you my mobile (the number obviously, not the actual phone, that would just be silly...)

[Sloper]

Just for the record I'm down to fewer than 12 shots of espresso a day (on avarage).

We should be there by about mid-day.

[nik at work]

We?

You, Bluebrad, Fiend?

Because it sounds like Andi E will be coming so that would make the required 4 attendees. I'll have to get my apron out....

[GCW]

I'll try to post sometime to let you know if I'll make it or not.  Hopefully get there on time.
Bit of a mixed forecast unfortunately.

[nik at work]

Well it was dry overnight and was looking promising first thing this morning, but now there is a very light shower, and the clouds seem to have closed in a bit a darkened up. It could go either way right now, I don't think there has been enough rain to stop play, and the weather is supposed to improve as the day progresses so fingers crossed....

Tom if you decide not to bother coming over will you text me to let me know? Cheers.

[nik at work]

Getting a bit wetter now. My official call if pushed would be don't bother coming. Once it gets damp it takes age to dry up there and I think it's probably heading towards that damp state.

[GCW]

Bummer.  All the green stuff takes a while to dry off.  The forecast I saw suggested it would dry off later on.  Any chance of an update about 11:00?  Cheers.

[BenF]

Just read this thread and it doesn't seem to have been mentioned, but Laddow is worth a visit for a day.  You can tick all the worthwhile stuff quickly and boy is it worthwhile - or at least the HVS-E1 stuff is anyway (the easier stuff was a bit grotty).  Got a bit of height to it too, as well as a range of styles from steep cracks, bold slabs and aretes, through to fun juggy roofs.  I loved it when I went up there the other week anyway.  Plus it's quiet and in a beautiful spot.  You may well have been up there though.

[Fiend]

Have been indeed. A bit of a summer crag and all a bit mountaineering to get up there. Agree that there's some fine routes around that standard.

Have realised that one good way to get inspiration is me buying the recent Stanage guide. Worked a couple of years back with the Burbage guide showing me stuff I hadn't previously considered, so a weighty new tome could be the key...

[BenF]

Agree with your comments about Laddow, just thought I'd mention it because it gave me a fine day's soloing and routing the other week.  Plus nobody I've spoken to since actually seems to have heard of it...  serves me right for hanging out with a bunch of boulderers.

As for the Stanage guide, I'm with you on that too, even down to acknowledging how the Burbage guide opened my eyes to lots of stuff that I didn't know existed, routes and problems.  Plus it's a chance to buy yet another guidebook with which you can wile away yet more winter evenings.