[jwi]

Botanics in Ventanas/Rodellar took me an inordinate amount of tries spread out over a long time. I really "should" have done it this spring, repeatedly falling off easy-ish terrain on the top. Alpine muti-pitch sportclimbing in the summer might have topped up my endurance, but most likely it was just dry air that helped me reach the chains yesterday. Well that, and a new easier sequence on the crux...

I'm more relieved than happy tbh.

[spidermonkey09]

Awesome, good effort. I was only thinking yesterday about how I'd love to go back to Rodellar.

[Duma]

Ah what an amazing looking crag, nice one!

[remus]

Looks quality, nice one JWI. Hopefully that relief slowly morphs in to satisfaction given a little time.

[jwi]

Looks quality, nice one JWI. Hopefully that relief slowly morphs in to satisfaction given a little time.

I'm happy ! but even more, I'm relieved

[Andy F]

Finally ticked Prime Evil at Chapel Head Scar. Feels great to be moving over some hardish rock after a frustrating two years of injuries and COVID earlier in the summer.

[Hoseyb]

Whoop whoop!

[Fiend]

 

[jwi]

I managed to redpoint No t’ho perdis, 8a, on Pared Gran in Sant Llorenc del Munt after what I guesstimate to be more than 30 attempts. I've lost track of how many days I've tried it. I know for sure that it is the 8a I've given most attempts to ever. And I'm not sure I've ever tried so hard on a single move as I did on the last move of the crux. Almost blacked out.

I have really large feet and pretty fat fingers and cannot stick to the original beta on the crux as it requires a hand-foot match in a deep pocket where there simply is not enough room for both my hand and some of my fingers. I found a method that bypasses the original crux (and uses none of it's holds), and I am still is in disbelief that I could actually pull on those holds on link. Last spring I could not even reliably do the three move crux as an individual boulder after resting on the bolt.

The climbing up to the crux is nothing special, a bit sharp and slighly unpleaseant 7c maybe. The climbing after is like a pumpy vertical 7b with some semi-rests. Meaning is where you find it I guess. Really pleased.

My better half has also tried the route and did the crux with some effort, so based on attempts for grades I would estimate the crux to be around FB 6C for her. I plug this in to Darth Grader and the machine agrees. The route is 8a. People seem to think it is a smack-in-the-middle of the grade, so the math works.

[nik at work]

Not sure f you’re happy because you did the route or because DarthGrader works… but either way, congratulations 

[Fiend]

Not sure f you’re happy because you did the route or because DarthGrader works… but either way, congratulations 

Exactly this! I'm guessing more the latter. Good description of the challenge you faced, JWI!

[andy popp]

Congrats Jonas - a hard won and well deserved victory!

Almost blacked out.

Many years ago there was a great article in Climbing (I think) by Geoff Wiegand about a first ascent in Logan Canyon. On lowering off after a huge fight he curled up on the floor and blacked out, entering some weird catatonic state that had lasting physiological effects. It was an entertaining read if anyone can track it down.

[Stabbsy]

Almost blacked out.

Many years ago there was a great article in Climbing (I think) by Geoff Wiegand about a first ascent in Logan Canyon. On lowering off after a huge fight he curled up on the floor and blacked out, entering some weird catatonic state that had lasting physiological effects. It was an entertaining read if anyone can track it down.

Appropriately called Blackout. It’s in the “In The Media” section of his website.

https://www.geoffweigand.com/

[Johnny Brown]

I remember El Mocho doing something similar after flashing Thormen's Moth. There were tourists stepping over him while he dry retched in a heap on the cave floor.

[36chambers]

I dry fired at Almscliff on Saturday, removing skin off 4 knuckles, and the resulting hot aches were so bad my vision started to fade and I genuinely thought I was going to blackout and/or puke. It was quite the experience.

Thankfully, after forcing down a lot of dried mango, de-layering and lying down for 15 minutes, I started to feel half decent again. Desperate times.

[teestub]

I dry fired at Almscliff on Saturday, removing skin off 4 knuckles, and the resulting hot aches were so bad my vision started to fade and I genuinely thought I was going to blackout and/or puke. It was quite the experience.

Next level Nathanieling

[duncan]

Congratulations to jwi and thanks to Andy and Stabbsy for the Geoff Weigand article which is an entertaining read. Trying hard really is the superpower.

(I wish I could remember Weigand's notably unflattering nickname bestowed by other Australian climbers in the 80s. It is inexplicably missing from his self-penned résumé wikipedia page.) 

[spidermonkey09]

Wait til you see his website!

https://www.geoffweigand.com/

Some great shots of Serpentine though.

[SA Chris]

I dry fired at Almscliff on Saturday, removing skin off 4 knuckles, and the resulting hot aches were so bad my vision started to fade and I genuinely thought I was going to blackout and/or puke.

Americans call hot aches the screaming barfies for a reason.

[Duma]

Onsighted (as far as you can given the chalk) the glorious La Muerte del Sponsor today. Have wanted to do this forever, so psyched that not only was my dodgy finger ok, but also felt like I climbed it really well throughout.

[lukeyboy]

Onsighted (as far as you can given the chalk) the glorious La Muerte del Sponsor today. Have wanted to do this forever, so psyched that not only was my dodgy finger ok, but also felt like I climbed it really well throughout.

Nice one Duma 

[jwi]

Nice! Mythique !

[jwi]

You still in Siurana tomorrow btw? Wer'e going down there over the day, to El Pati

[Duma]

Ah sorry, we leave tomorrow morning so will miss you

[Fiend]

I have no idea what the route is but well done you dodgy fingered bugger!