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YYFY!!! (Read 2088345 times)

Wood FT

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#7775 Re: YYFY!!!
May 14, 2022, 08:13:30 pm
Welcome back, have a good one.

Wellsy

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#7776 Re: YYFY!!!
May 15, 2022, 01:09:11 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)

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#7777 Re: YYFY!!!
May 15, 2022, 03:45:02 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)

Effort wad

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#7778 Re: YYFY!!!
May 15, 2022, 04:33:06 pm
Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing :)

Effort! They always say you come back from an injury stronger!

PeteHukb

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#7779 Re: YYFY!!!
May 21, 2022, 04:14:24 pm
I always enjoy reading everyone's minor victories on here so thought I'd finally share one of my own. These generally work better with context so please forgive the lengthy preamble.

I climbed one 8a on sport back in 2014, and then since then I've had two children (via the wife, wisely) and a succession of pretty significant wrist, finger and elbow injuries have that interfered with consistent training and climbing. Obviously at various points I've considered sacking off training/projecting in favour of pootling up E1s at the weekend, as that would definitely still be a worthwhile and happy climbing existence; but I do love the grind of training and the feeling of trying hard.

This last winter I finally had an entire winter of strength training without an injury (other than the standard longstanding medial epicondylitis) and came into spring actually feeling strong (for me). Time is still limited for climbing and training though, and I'm only getting out on the lime once every 2-3 weeks, so it was far from a given that I'd actually climb anything much. But I made a plan, stuck to it, and yesterday climbed Henry's Route (a 7c/+ under-rated burlfest at Malham) on my second session this year, it having eluded me several times over the last four years. It's the first 7c I've climbed since 2018 (or, less convincingly, the first 7c+ since 2016), so maybe proper 7c+ (MFA or Dreamtime) even 8a are realistic objectives for later in the year. Even if not, it's great to tick a bit of a nemesis route!

Keep at it, everyone - or sack it off and settle for pootling, it's all climbing.

Wood FT

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#7780 Re: YYFY!!!
May 21, 2022, 04:45:46 pm
Great post. Well done!

Footwork

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#7781 Re: YYFY!!!
May 21, 2022, 09:23:25 pm
Nice one Pete!

Andy F

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#7782 Re: YYFY!!!
May 21, 2022, 09:24:40 pm
Excellent work Pete. Great to hear about strong comebacks. 8a is well within reach.

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#7783 Re: YYFY!!!
May 21, 2022, 10:24:46 pm
Yes, a reassuring tale, well done.

cheque

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#7784 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 12:49:09 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

Although I was ticking them off as late as that December, it was being thoroughly spanked by Flash Wall at Nether Tor on Kinder (after more than an hour of attempting the crux on lead I found that I couldn’t even do it on a top rope…) that made me realise I wouldn’t do them all and I finished the year with six still remaining  :'(

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:. Leading a sandbaggy moorland VS  isn’t a big deal for me any more but it’s so satisfying to close that little chapter, reminding myself not just of how much I’ve progressed in my climbing abilities since 2019 but also how much I still love climbing in the same way I did then, when it felt like such a privilege to still be able to do it  ;D.

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#7785 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 12:53:24 pm
A good reminder that its important to get back on things and finish them off.

Neil F

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#7786 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 03:32:49 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

I'm afraid I don't remember that, but what a brilliant project!  And a fantastic way to motivate you on the path back from serious injury.

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:.

Congratulations, not only on Flash Wall, but the whole set.  How many are there?

I've not led Flash Wall.  I did it with my partner Clare and Martin Boysen in 2016, and we put Clare in to bat  ;D  I thought it was a fantastic pitch, with a big feel.  Finished that day off by following Clare up Moneylender's Crack, which felt even bigger!  Great days...

Neil

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#7787 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 04:26:50 pm
If any of you remember my Power Club entries from 2019 (or indeed went climbing with me at that time) when I was really at the sharp end of recovering from my accident you might recall that I was focused on my quest to lead every three-star VS in the Peak.

Although I was ticking them off as late as that December, it was being thoroughly spanked by Flash Wall at Nether Tor on Kinder (after more than an hour of attempting the crux on lead I found that I couldn’t even do it on a top rope…) that made me realise I wouldn’t do them all and I finished the year with six still remaining  :'(

It hasn’t exactly been the focus of my climbing since then but I’ve still been doing them when the opportunity presents itself and this Saturday I led Flash Wall, completing the set :dance1:. Leading a sandbaggy moorland VS  isn’t a big deal for me any more but it’s so satisfying to close that little chapter, reminding myself not just of how much I’ve progressed in my climbing abilities since 2019 but also how much I still love climbing in the same way I did then, when it felt like such a privilege to still be able to do it  ;D.

WOOHOOO! Congratulations!

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#7788 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 04:40:04 pm
There are 52 of ‘em Neil. Here’s the full list-



My experience of telling people about it is that they assume they’ll have done most of them until they see that! I had 21 I hadn’t led or soloed (some of which I’d seconded) at the start of 2019 so to end the year with only 6 left wasn’t bad, looking back. In terms of capability: difficulty ratio I did some of my hardest leads that year. I was, as a number of this forum’s members will attest, a really slow and cautious leader at the time and would be wobbling up them, cramming in gear in a state of absolute terror  :lol: .

Flash Wall’s a truly great route. Really sustained and with a huge feel as you say. Moneylender’s Crack was also in the plan for Saturday but a kestrel flew out of it as I set off so that will have to wait for another visit.

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#7789 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 06:23:42 pm
Big ups to the YYFYers.

Since I've packed in Power Club I have nowhere else to warble on about how great rock climbing is, so here it is.

On Saturday, my friend Penny and I made pilgrimage to the Sacred Place. We warmed up downstairs then ascended to the Hallowed Hall. I went up Free and Easy to put the clips in and the connies were feeling goooooood - complete cloud cover and a breeze. It came time to redpoint and I stepped out over the void. I dispatched the crux and worked my way up the next few moves but found my fingers completely numbed out. I was staring at the two-finger crimp I was pulling on and could see that my fingers were there, just as they should be, but there was no sensation at all. I had to pause and alternate hands to coax some life back into each of them. On I carried, getting rather pumped now, until I managed to scrape through to the good flake-crack that marks the end of the difficult climbing. I rested here, shaking out the pump to make sure I didn't drop the last few easy moves. What a place! 40, 50, 100m off the ground? Slap bang in the middle of the upper reaches of the Cove, the whole of Airedale at your feet, the river bubbling from the rock and running away in search of the mighty Humber. Then, a break in the cloud cover, because God does exist and he lives at Malham, and I basked in glorious sunshine. Absolute nectar, that moment.

Then I was treated to holding the ropes for Penny as she went up Duck Dive, her first of the grade. As is Penny's wont, she forgot almost all of what she'd figured out on her dogging go. She threw between the holds, each move clearly close to the limit of her power. She did this again and again and, somehow, she just didn't fall off. What a fight! What a gutsy effort! My hero.

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#7790 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 06:55:22 pm
Lovely Will.

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#7791 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 06:59:21 pm
Top effort Cheque. I guess you secretly bagged Puttrell's Cleft on Minge Wall when we weren't looking....

Duma

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#7792 Re: YYFY!!!
May 23, 2022, 11:38:11 pm
And nice one Mike, I really enjoyed following your VS quest (despite knowing none of the routes), and more generally found your attitude towards your accident, injury, and rehab; and then how you found such enjoyment in climbing through your recovery, really inspiring.

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#7793 Re: YYFY!!!
May 24, 2022, 06:15:16 am
I certainly remember the original Flash Wall post Mike. Great to see this coming full circle.

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#7794 Re: YYFY!!!
May 24, 2022, 10:26:44 am
Ticklists sometimes get grief for encouraging 'consuming' but they can be such brilliant motivational tools when used to record progress from one place to another. Nice one cheque.

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#7795 Re: YYFY!!!
June 19, 2022, 10:42:27 pm
So grateful for the people offered to belay me today. Went to do some routes on a shunt. But these kind people gave me a belay as I was on my own.
Totally made my day.  Thank goodness there’s people like that in climbing.

andy popp

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#7796 Re: YYFY!!!
July 04, 2022, 02:23:03 pm
Yay! I don't have breast cancer - got the results of a biopsy from last week back earlier today (charming consultant rang me directly. The whole process has been very smooth and efficient).

NNFN - horrible events here in Copenhagen yesterday evening, only the second (non-terrorist) mass-shooting in the country's history.

Will Hunt

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#7797 Re: YYFY!!!
July 04, 2022, 02:38:42 pm
Phew! Great news, Andy. Not so much the other stuff but no reason you shouldn't enjoy the relief.

steveri

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#7798 Re: YYFY!!!
July 04, 2022, 02:57:39 pm
Happy for that Andy!
Denmark put on a beautiful show for the Tour ...and then this. At least these things are incredibly rare and 'thoughts and prayers' don't need to be reeled out every other week.

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#7799 Re: YYFY!!!
July 05, 2022, 08:05:43 pm
Today I have done 100 days of stretching in a row despite being sick with long covid. Minimum session is 5 mins to get the tick, but I usually do nearer 10, maximum seems to be 30 mins. There were definitely times that I'd happily have given up, bearing in mind that some days I am too sick to leave the house, but I just about managed to get it done. This seems to be just the right amount of exercise that I can cope with and it actually has some use for climbing, double win!

I can now put my whole palm flat on the floor from a front fold, can sometimes get my calves to touch the floor in a butterfly stretch and have added 30cms to my side splits. Well chuffed.

 

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