[Duma]

10 days off now until we have a day in Font and then move down to Margalef!

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up

[teestub]

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up

Just to co-sign on this, save the 10 days off for the end of the trip! 

[James Malloch]

What size edge did you go for, and how long do you tend to hang for your max hang tests? Great effort BTW very strong

That was 7 seconds on a 23-25mm as I did my original testing on something similar.

Though I’ve been doing my weekly sessions with 6 reps 10 second hangs on a 20mm edge.

Those are including BW by the way. So hanging +70%, not +170%

[James Malloch]

10 days off is going to ruin your skin, I'd keep doing something in the run up

Just to co-sign on this, save the 10 days off for the end of the trip!

It’s more enforced, though we did managed a board session at a friends yesterday and might squeeze something in enroute to Dover tomorrow.

But then we’re visiting family. But it’s looking more like 5-6 off now. Good news is the tweak I got has gone 

[Andy F]

First 8a in my 50's and first 8a at the Tor. Psyched.

[Ru]

Well done Andy!

[andy popp]

Fine effort!

[Carliios]

8 sessions later and I was finally able to finish Electrical Storm. Not a path for anyone my height (5’6) 

[Andy F]

A minor YYFY possibly, but our youngest (11) after years of showing no interest in climbing had been to the wall with me on Tuesday and Thursday and we've sorted him a membership as he's super psyched to keep going.

[seankenny]

I’ve been really incapacitated all year with long covid. The only thing I can do that is remotely applicable to climbing is stretching, so I’m very pleased that I have managed a stretching session every day this month. Minimum five minutes to count as a “session” but mostly longer than that.

I’ve also managed to do 20% more walking according to my phone, but I’ve had a couple of runs of bad days in the last few weeks so might have slightly overdone it and maybe a 10% increase would have been better. Still, I’m spending less time in bed and according to my partner I’m looking less ill.

Great to have some small wins in what is otherwise quite a thankless experience.

[Paul B]

That's really good to read.

[Duma]

Good news Sean, really sorry covid has hit you and yours so hard. Easy to forget sometimes how bad it can be, especially from the perspective of someone who's been much luckier with the whole thing.

[mrjonathanr]

Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.

[seankenny]

Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.

I can't tell you how encouraging it is to hear of someone with a very similar disease getting better and returning to climbing. Makes me feel much better and more hopeful.

[andy popp]

Glad to hear you're beginning to see some signs of progress Sean, and really hope it continues. Best wishes to you and everyone suffering similarly.

[mrjonathanr]

Glad to hear you are making some progress Sean. The difference between no progress and some progress is massive. Obviously post Covid conditions are novel, but post viral conditions generally are not new. Having had ME which lasted for a number of years, you have my deepest sympathy. It’s awful. I got better eventually and it sounds like you are inching your way towards recovery. I hope that arrives soon.

I can't tell you how encouraging it is to hear of someone with a very similar disease getting better and returning to climbing. Makes me feel much better and more hopeful.

You might not say that if you saw me climb!     Progressively, I found the ratio of activity vs payback/ recuperation grew in my favour. It took time to get there, but life did return to normal. No special formula, just (enforced) patience. You may get back on your feet quicker than I did of course, and an extended period experiencing post exercise malaise is pretty common in post viral conditions. Hang in there.

[Wellsy]

Today for the first time in a few months I did some slightly harder problems to the top of the climbing wall, and jumped from the top with a perfectly safe and fine landing. No knee issues or anything. Feels like a great milestone for recovery

[Hoseyb]

Nice one!

[MischaHY]

Just boarded a ferry in Dunkirk bound for Dover. First time home in 3 years and first time for more than a few days in 5. Feeling surprisingly emotional!

[Wood FT]

Welcome back, have a good one.

[Wellsy]

Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing

[CapitalistPunter]

Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing

Effort wad

[Carliios]

Did Beretta 7A+ today

7A+ is my highest grade and following injury to return to some kind of form feels amazing

Effort! They always say you come back from an injury stronger!

[PeteHukb]

I always enjoy reading everyone's minor victories on here so thought I'd finally share one of my own. These generally work better with context so please forgive the lengthy preamble.

I climbed one 8a on sport back in 2014, and then since then I've had two children (via the wife, wisely) and a succession of pretty significant wrist, finger and elbow injuries have that interfered with consistent training and climbing. Obviously at various points I've considered sacking off training/projecting in favour of pootling up E1s at the weekend, as that would definitely still be a worthwhile and happy climbing existence; but I do love the grind of training and the feeling of trying hard.

This last winter I finally had an entire winter of strength training without an injury (other than the standard longstanding medial epicondylitis) and came into spring actually feeling strong (for me). Time is still limited for climbing and training though, and I'm only getting out on the lime once every 2-3 weeks, so it was far from a given that I'd actually climb anything much. But I made a plan, stuck to it, and yesterday climbed Henry's Route (a 7c/+ under-rated burlfest at Malham) on my second session this year, it having eluded me several times over the last four years. It's the first 7c I've climbed since 2018 (or, less convincingly, the first 7c+ since 2016), so maybe proper 7c+ (MFA or Dreamtime) even 8a are realistic objectives for later in the year. Even if not, it's great to tick a bit of a nemesis route!

Keep at it, everyone - or sack it off and settle for pootling, it's all climbing.

[Wood FT]

Great post. Well done!