[Andy F]

Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas

[kingholmesy]

First ever Grit 7b+ today. Nice way to end the year 

Geddin. 

[Fultonius]

Does this problem have a name?

Not one I'm telling you about... 

nice one! One of these years I'll make it down to the peak for some bouldering....maybe this winter when things open up again!

[tomtom]

Well done Andy.

[Wood FT]

First ever Grit 7b+ today. Nice way to end the year 

Nice one Andy

[nik at work]

Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.

[tomtom]

Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.

That’s great news Nik.

[Andy F]

That's great news Nick 

[Will Hunt]

Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas

Boss moves.

[Andy F]

Does this problem have a name?

To everyone else, it's Zaff Skoczylas

Boss moves.

Are you drunk? I (along with the rest of the planet) was expecting "Piss, 7a at most" 
But, yeah, great moves.

[Duma]

Nice Andy 👍

Got an email from the Manx government today giving me permission to go and collect my boys at the end of December so they can spend January with me. Not seen them since summer, a pretty decent Christmas present.

Fantastic! Really pleased for you.

[nik at work]

Thanks guys, feels slightly double edged what with the variant kicking off and such like...
But booked all the travel yesterday so it should go ahead.

Will probably be another long wait to see them again after this trip though by the look of things.

[sdm]

Not sure if this belongs in YYFY or NNFN but I finally did the first ever problem that I set on my board!

I set it back in 2018, expecting to get it done in a session or two and gave it a provisional grade of 7A.

After 2 years of trying it, I had never been able to stick either of the top two crux moves in isolation: a pull through on a mono to a two finger pocket, and then a big roll-over throw to the top. I slowly bumped the provisional grade up to 7C+ (I daren't suggest a grade harder than that for anything on my board in case someone ever repeats it and declares it to be piss).

Today, I tried it for the first time since having a few sessions trying it in November (where I got totally shutdown on it as usual). I had barely touched a pocket in the last month but I tried some slightly different beta today and did both of the crux moves second go. Then I rested for a while and did the full problem first attempt, and repeated it twice more to confirm it wasn't a fluke. 

Now I'm not sure if it was ever really hard. It didn't feel much harder than my original guess of 7A. 

I still couldn't do it with the original beta so I've still got that to work on. If covid ever blows over, I'll have to get a second opinion to find out whether it was even hard.

[tomtom]

Nice one! I often wonder what grade things on my board are! And it’ll be fun post lockdown to get someone else on it and find out whether I’m any good or a total punter !!

[Bradders]

That's awesome, good work!

[csl]

Just done the first ascent of my new home board, no idea how I got my wife to agree to me building it in the garden but psyched all the same!

[cheque]

Just dug out my pre-accident training diaries (rarely a morale boost) and compared yesterday’s fingerboard session with my previous best.

I am now stronger at fingerboarding than ever before.

[Oldmanmatt]

I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

On the other hand, one of the boys has peed on the seat, there is some suspicion that it was him and No.2 daughter (4 of 4) just sat in it. World War 3 is now underway.
Ho hum.

[lagerstarfish]

That's brilliant Matt (apart from pee war)

I'm sure parenting skills will have contributed.

 

[Nibile]

Managed to sneak out for a few laps of my own private road racing circuit on a sunny afternoon!!!
 

[MischaHY]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

[SA Chris]

I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.

[Oldmanmatt]

I have mentioned that my son (3 of 4) was on the spectrum. He has been variously assessed for Dyspraxia and Autism etc. His difficulties put him under the care the school Councilor, on the SENS Regester and he struggled through Primary. Turned 12 in November.
I was really quite worried about the start of Secondary. He passed his 11+ so followed his sister into the Grammar stream (which I was hoping might be better for him than having to deal with the general population).
Anyway, despite this being one seriously screwed up year and missing the last 3rd of year 6, he’s really thrived.
He even asked for a skateboard for his birthday. If you’ve experienced a child who might be Dyspraxic then you’ll know why that scared me shitless, but this is his fist attempt:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHTPs6JDlAm/?igshid=iwcgkze15ium

Dude has just plain changed. Still overly obsessed with Greek mythology and history and tends to get into verbal loops or verbal diarrhoea, but definitely a different kid.

I got a phone call yesterday. He’s doing so well, has a large social group and several friends etc, that he’s been taken off the SENS regester. Excellent report, even in PE.

I missed this, it's great news and gives me a bit of hope. Kyle has Asperger's / ASC and is moving to Academy in the summer. We had considered Grammar route, but finances and logistics prohibit it (only nearby one is Aberdeen City Centre, and he'd not cope with public transport). Added to which he's the youngest in his year (Christmas Birthday, with age cutoff in Scotland the end of the year). We're concerned to say the least, hopefully the change will do him good too.

My eldest beat the cut off for her year group by three days. Always the smallest in her year and basically as much as a year behind her peers. Fortunately, she’s probably the strongest member of our little tribe, but it worried me for the first few years of school and again at the start of Comp.
Again now, to be honest. Now she’s a 15 yr old, who’s friends are all 16 or 17, some even starting to drive...

My first cousin, has Aspergers, but managed well through the Grammar system here in the Bay, he’s a language wizz, but even now, takes upwards of a hour to clean his teeth (more should he lose count of strokes) and never let him pack his own bag if you need to catch a flight at some point upto a month away. He’s going to turn 60 soon, lives in France and teaches languages. We, though, as a consequence, grew up with it. Reasonably close knit family (that’s the Italian side).

For several years, we employed a young man, who though never formally diagnosed, was quite probably on there somewhere and not at a particularly shallow point, either.
He got himself into trouble at his College and did quite a bit of damage to our business. Simply because he lacked filters and basically went off without fully processing things and wasn’t receptive to outside intervention. The college gave up and expelled him.
We took him on as an apprentice.
Amazing the difference that a more one to one approach had.
He left us after six years, just before Xmas, to move to Chamonix. His ambition is to be a guide and I reckon he’ll do it.
The wall turned out to be a brilliant environment for him to, unconsciously, develop his social skills. He’ll hate me for writing that, but I’m not sure he ever grasped how difficult he was as a teen. Still a great bloke, now.

[Nibile]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

I take it that your project is on ze rockz, so fair dos.
Apart from that, I can't possibly imagine how you can resist the need to climb it with the old, harder sequence.

[tomtom]

Having finally managed to do the stopper move on my long-term boulder project a couple of sessions ago, I discovered yesterday that I don't even need to do the bastard - I can skip it by simply going long to the next hold which is easier and more reliable (the move was right hand up, then then again with right but much wider). Immediately started doing longer links into it after several sessions of glacial progress  Felt a little surreal.

I love stuff like this. I am such an 'incremental' climber that everything happens in tiny steps... funny how projecting stuff can yield real satisfaction even with small gains (though this sounds like a bigger one...).