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YYFY!!! (Read 2294433 times)

Nibile

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#5650 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 01:44:52 pm
Ahhahahahahah!!!
That's surprisingly close to reality indeed! Thanks guys.
Ten years, yes, but the truth is different from what it may seem. I'll try to cut a long story short.
I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.
Realized that the original line (just the roof) was beyond my wildest dreams and left it for a while. But the bottom part is really cool. So I went back to it and decided to climb it - sadly - as an eliminate, choosing one single foohold of the nearby rock on the right. And that's how I climbed it yesterday.
It's cool because you have to spin 180° from releasing the toehook to lunge for the foothold, that I aptly chose to be the hardest one to use, that is quite higher than the right hand, at chest level more or less. Then it's doable.
Still better this way than chipping something.
Basically, you can climb the thing at any grade from probably 6b to probably >8b depending on what you choose to use for your feet.
So, a kind of Phyrric victory (that would have been a cool name).
There you go, this is the harsh truth about the sad reality. But you can all keep congratulating me because I like it.

SA Chris

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#5651 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 02:45:32 pm

I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.

This is the downside of getting ridiculously strong; you end up snapping everything.

Nibile

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#5652 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 03:09:32 pm

I did the top out many years ago, when there were still fooholds and the left hand crimp was much bigger. Then I spent a few years trying to find out other holds and in the process I started accidentally breaking the existing handholds and footholds so that the topout became mega hard per se.
Then I took a few years to finally identify which holds were actually useful and I came out with a sequence. Broke some more stuff in the process.

This is the downside of getting ON ridiculously strong SHITTY ROCK; you end up snapping everything.
Fixed that for you. But thank you nonetheless.
 ;D
« Last Edit: October 01, 2015, 03:21:49 pm by Nibile »

tomtom

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#5653 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 04:32:42 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..

nai

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#5654 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 04:58:14 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..

I'll raise you..... Oaktober

Hello?

Hello?


 :tumble: :tumble: :tumble: :tumble:

tomtom

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#5655 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 05:06:08 pm
Effort Beast \o/

Sendtember moves onto Rocktober.. (Groan)..

I'll raise you..... Oaktober

Hello?

Hello?


 :tumble: :tumble: :tumble: :tumble:

:D we possibly both need puntering :)

Nibile

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#5656 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 05:16:13 pm
 ;D
Hadn't noticed it...

Nibile

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#5657 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 07:10:39 pm
Ahahahahahahahahahahahah I just climbed a project on my board! It was a mix of surprise and nonchalance, like "Oh fuck I've done it!" and "Oh yeah I've done it, so what?"
I love this shit goddammit.
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Name suggestions?

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#5658 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 07:24:32 pm
Ahahahahahahahahahahahah I just climbed a project on my board! It was a mix of surprise and nonchalance, like "Oh fuck I've done it!" and "Oh yeah I've done it, so what?"
I love this shit goddammit.
 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Name suggestions?

What about 'so what'?

Nibile

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#5659 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 07:27:04 pm
Sold. Have a point.

andy_e

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#5660 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 07:43:02 pm
Unprecedented psyche levels floating around UKB at the moment! Strong!

Nibile

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#5661 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 08:19:31 pm
Unprecedented psyche levels floating around UKB at the moment! Strong!
Wait for a feroucious predator to get up a tree and then we'll see true psyche!

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#5662 Re: YYFY!!!
October 01, 2015, 08:38:30 pm
Tiger willow?

mark s

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#5663 Re: YYFY!!!
October 03, 2015, 08:33:07 pm
a none climbing yyyfy
spent all week on a course as large animal rescue specialist in hampshire. started work at 0800 today and at 0801 a call came through for a horse had kicked its foot out through its horse box and was now stuck. successful rescue and a horse saved.   

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#5664 Re: YYFY!!!
October 04, 2015, 04:35:10 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday and today had a few hours at Hepburn and managed to drag myself up A Northern Soul and Titanic Arete! Pretty good weekend!!

36chambers

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#5665 Re: YYFY!!!
October 04, 2015, 07:07:42 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday and today had a few hours at Hepburn and managed to drag myself up A Northern Soul and Titanic Arete! Pretty good weekend!!

  :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: I remember being so happy relieved when I successfully flopped my body onto the top of the grouch. Good work.

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#5666 Re: YYFY!!!
October 09, 2015, 02:18:33 pm
Had a YES, YES, FUCKING YES!!! training session this afternoon. Screw all of that incremental progress shit on the fingerboard, somehow managed to set PR's in 4 grips on my second fingerboard session of the training cycle, essentially 'skipping' 2 or 3 sessions to get to where I am. Looking forward to the winter! : ) (the top purple point was today)


Fultonius

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#5667 Re: YYFY!!!
October 09, 2015, 03:19:08 pm
Anyone want run a book on time to first injury? £5 on 6 weeks for me...  (i.e. Listen to your body,  don't just push on because it looks nice on your chart)

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#5668 Re: YYFY!!!
October 09, 2015, 03:48:23 pm
A climbing YYFY, Got the Grouch at Brimham yesteday

The Grouch is excellent...... and frustrating.

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#5669 Re: YYFY!!!
October 13, 2015, 12:47:09 pm
I have my psyche back ;D

After about 18 months of not been all that arsed about climbing.
I had 4 session in a week last week and I am gutted that I have plans tonight and cant meet some mates at the wall.
 :dance1:

Now I just need the grit to be called

nik at work

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#5670 Re: YYFY!!!
October 13, 2015, 04:54:44 pm
At fuckin last  ;D

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#5671 Re: YYFY!!!
October 14, 2015, 10:05:31 am
At fuckin last  ;D
tell me about it and just in time for spain.
Simon moved out though so lacking a lead belayer.

SA Chris

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#5672 Re: YYFY!!!
October 15, 2015, 12:56:40 pm
Painful on tops of forearms yesterday (possibly from shoddy technique on campus board on Monday) but had a hearty cup of MTFU and went to wall last night anyway. Had a reasonably good session (2 1/2 hours or so) and arms actually feel better today than yesterday.

Mike Tyson

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#5673 Re: YYFY!!!
October 15, 2015, 06:52:44 pm
My Mrs got a permanent teaching job in Newtown Aycliffe today! So I'm on the move again, time to build a nest (and a board hopefully!) in County Durham!  :icon_beerchug:

kelvin

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#5674 Re: YYFY!!!
October 15, 2015, 07:10:24 pm
Nice one!

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