[AJM]

Andy or I will put together a few photos and notes on climbing at Wendenstock when we get back. It's a challenging place to go rock climbing but the routes look amazing.

I wrote some nonsense for Duncan to correct.......... 

http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/wendenstock.html

[Fiend]

A month ago I was struggling on E2s. Managed to get my act together for last week on Lundy, (or possibly holiday grades) and had probably the best week of my trad climbing life gradewise - plus got drunk every night. Amazing.

Nice one JB, welcome back to tradding.

[Johnny Brown]

You done much on Lundy Matt? You'd be crushing on your current form. Lots of off-vertical stuff and soft grades.

[SA Chris]

Did you do the Diamond in a day?

(Spurious objective I made up while there, no hope of achieving, but one of your team could have done it)

[Johnny Brown]

I guess it took about three hours all told.

[Teaboy]

soft grades.

I thought the total opposite when I went but I was climbing badly anyway and my experience was limited to nothing above E2

[Johnny Brown]

Someone else has said the same today. Either I'm even better than I thought or things are different above E4. On the first day we did Supercharged and Cullinan, both E5, which would get E3 and E4 on grit. I guess conditions can be all over the place on Lundy though, we were lucky in that respect with dry, overcast skies and a cool northwesterly so no condensation.

[Wood FT]

Glad you had a good trip. Obviously limestone is your preferred medium but you're not too shabby on the grit so maybe you're climbing well in that style. Did anyone else say it's soft? I've never heard that on the grapevine like I have with Pabbay

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah the rock definitely suited me - friction, 3 dimensions, jams, wedgey rests. Doing Supercharged first was a great reminder not to be intimidated by the grade too. So often you're battling your own assumptions not the physical reality.

[andy popp]

Widespread Ocean of Fear was definitely no soft touch - did I hear it got upgraded? Cullinan did feel pretty steady though.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah the rock definitely suited me - friction, 3 dimensions, jams, wedgey rests. Doing Supercharged first was a great reminder not to be intimidated by the grade too. So often you're battling your own assumptions not the physical reality.

*Snort*

[a dense loner]

Either I'm even better than I thought

Not possible

[Johnny Brown]

Either I'm even better than I thought

Not possible

I'm only as good as your fingers are strong Lee.

Widespread Ocean of Fear was definitely no soft touch - did I hear it got upgraded?

Was it E4? Felt like the biggest E5 pitch of the week for me, but then I did it first so got the full experience. Dirtiest route we did despite it's fame, I guess it must be the aspect. Antiworlds p1 was defo dirtier but we were third team up, and it was one season's nests not lichen. Whilst on the subject, why isn't Antiworlds the most famous route on the island? I guess only cos you can't see it. It's AMAZING.

[a dense loner]

That's very very good, said big nutbrown hare

[Fiend]

You done much on Lundy Matt? You'd be crushing on your current form. Lots of off-vertical stuff and soft grades.

Ughhhhhh. I did a couple of decades ago when I just started climbing.....did some nice VSes n stuff.

I don't tend to get on so well with granite - hard, conditionsy, big polished grains that disagree with my soft damp paws. Sounds like you got the conditions spot on. I'll remain skeptical of soft grades, my only recent experience has been in Cornwall, generally nails and chuffed to get up E2/3s clean.

Give us a route / beta list or something...

[SA Chris]

I guess it took about three hours all told.

I meant all the routes on the Diamond??

[fatneck]

I think my new job is going to be ace! Only one week in but I'm busier than I've been for a while (in a good way) and fully psyched on the opportunity to get good outcomes for young people in a well organised setting! 

[Grubes]

Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't know

[Mike Tyson]

Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.

Couldn't agree more, I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.

I wouldn't know

Chin up! Consolation wad point matey 

[Oldmanmatt]

Doing a job you like is probably one of the best YYFY you can get.

Couldn't agree more, I went from a job that made me miserable and ill, but paid well, to a job that makes me bounce out of bed in the morning, but lesser pay means I lead a more frugle existence. Work life balance, very hard to find.

I wouldn't know

Chin up! Consolation wad point matey 

+1

The frugal bit can be damn stressful too, mind.



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[spid3rz]

fairly small YYFS, but on Thursday evening I managed to get Timmy Tip Toes at Shaftoe! Got to the crag at 730pm as the sun was setting and managed a dark top out of the climb with bats flying around me. Had a bit of a moment at the top when I couldn't find the holds...

[andy popp]

Nice. Sounds very atmospheric.

[Fiend]

Sounds good! Cool looking problem that.

[spid3rz]

Sounds good! Cool looking problem that.

Its a great problem, I found it quite tough (typical Northumberland sandbag). Walking out of Shaftoe in the Dark with no torch is scary though HAHA!!