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YYFY!!! (Read 2294434 times)

Grubes

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#3575 Re: YYFY!!!
February 15, 2013, 11:55:22 am
Nice one jasper!
You going to the climbing works or the broadfield to celebrate?

Jaspersharpe

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#3576 Re: YYFY!!!
February 15, 2013, 12:49:57 pm
Unfortunately I'm celebrating by doing some urgent work. A few celebratory pull ups and then the pub in a bit though.......  ;D

Ally Smith

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#3577 Re: YYFY!!!
February 15, 2013, 01:10:00 pm
Surgeon doesn't want to touch my ankle until May. Glad i didn't have to explain that although it's fecked, i can still ski and climb on it, and please could you schedule op after i've done a week of both....

tomtom

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#3578 Re: YYFY!!!
February 15, 2013, 04:17:20 pm
Excellent news Jasper! Still a couple of months of scrittle season left ;)

cheque

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#3579 Re: YYFY!!!
February 17, 2013, 09:56:39 pm
Did Gorilla Warfare today- my first 7A.  :dance1:

boulderingbacon

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#3580 Re: YYFY!!!
February 17, 2013, 10:42:09 pm
think i may have spotted you. was a good effort, done in fine style. i had a good moment later in the day flashing ultimate grit experience which although not hard in grade im so bad at flashing things i was well chuffed.

a dense loner

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#3581 Re: YYFY!!!
February 17, 2013, 11:50:54 pm
Is ultimate grit experience the huggy prow thing or next to it? If so good effort on finding it I looked for an hr n found nothing

Fiend

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#3582 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 12:21:18 pm
Gorilla is a very fun problem, proper indoor wall climbing style for grit.

Dragging t'bird into t'bog should have been a YYFY too??


Dense, UGE is up in the woods near the edge, just above a slanting track, HTH.

tomtom

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#3583 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 01:07:48 pm
Is ultimate grit experience the huggy prow thing or next to it? If so good effort on finding it I looked for an hr n found nothing

Keep on walking along the path that goes past trackside for about 1/2 or 3/4 of a mile and its next to the path as it rises up through woodland. A good block, and UGE is a great problem!

Richie Crouch

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#3584 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 01:48:38 pm
UGE was a proper walk in and a bit of a dissapointment from what I remember.

Plattsy

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#3585 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 02:13:52 pm
At least you found it. Hope you had a map and compass for your expedition.

I really liked UGE and recommend people hunt it out when talking about Curbar.

slackline

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#3586 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 02:19:35 pm
UGE was a proper walk in and a bit of a dissapointment from what I remember.

 :lol: You could walk from Curbar Gap to The Grouse and it would just about register as a proper walk!

erm, sam

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#3587 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 02:54:05 pm
It is a little bit of a walk, but after you have ticked UGE if you carry on onto the edge and head back towards the main crag proper you can do a nice main crag far end 6c circuit including Cloud Cuckoo Land, Art of Japan, Last light etc.

Richie Crouch

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#3588 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 03:39:51 pm
:lol: You could walk from Curbar Gap to The Grouse and it would just about register as a proper walk!

I'm more used to the Parisellas and Bowderstone approaches, so it came as a bit of a shock to the system!

Dolly

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#3589 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 03:52:19 pm
I think UGE is great - its well worth the 12 minutes walk from Trackside

a dense loner

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#3590 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 04:45:35 pm
Must have walked straight past it, after all some of the probs on that block are Percy's

boulderingbacon

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#3591 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 06:25:45 pm
was easy to find following the guidebook discription and well worth it if you like fridge hugging. also did art of japan on way back along the top which was good but made all the better by the exposed feeling you get being next to a big drop.

SA Chris

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#3592 Re: YYFY!!!
February 18, 2013, 09:55:38 pm
12 minute walk?? Roadside then.

Fiend

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#3593 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 09:27:27 am
They have paths n all down there  :lol:

moose

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#3594 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 09:37:50 am
Just back from a holiday in Antalya; had a great time and now proper chuffed (pun intended... sorry) for the coming season.   Terrible start: snow-pocalypse led to missed flight, so had to pay for a extra one-way trip the next day (still, you can't take it with you).  Then, when we got there, it was unseasonably cold and rained eight days out of ten.  Frequent power cuts and freezing nights spent trying to burn damp wood on a log stove (all my "holiday" clothing went unused: spent the entire holiday wearing the warm-weather clothes I had worn in the UK!).

Still, we managed to climb every day and I amassed a pretty healthy ticklist: 36 routes, 23 of which in the 7s.  Mostly on-sight, including on-sights of four 7b's and eight 7a+'s. Before this, I had previously only managed the very occasional 7a/+ on-sight (including last year at the same crags - so not a "holiday grades" effect).  Circumstances generally precluded more than a go or two at any route but I was satisfied to bag three 7b+s too (one of which is now 7c locally), including Black Moon, my nemesis from last year. 

Just so very happy that last year, my first ever proper spell of route climbing, seems to have had a tangible effect (despite not having roped up for almost four months - not even indoors).  Odd to think I am improving at my ripe old age - the benefits of starting late and being shit! Now I am raring to get into the Yorkshire lime; although fully prepared for a spanking from the minging crimps of my comparatively slabby and polished home turf.  Just hope the weather is a bit less wet this year...

a dense loner

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#3595 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 09:43:16 am
Good trip that moose  :strongbench:

tomtom

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#3596 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 10:01:12 am
Nice one Moose..

SA Chris

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#3597 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 10:46:07 am
So Turkey has loads of soft touch graded routes then ! :)

Nice one sounds like a top trip.

moose

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#3598 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 11:22:22 am
If it has, I must have avoided them on my trip last year!  What I would say is that, after a year of Malham and Kilnsey, the routes in the F7s all seemed pretty basic and uncomplicated.  Very on-sightable; if the on-sight was blown, a quick fiddle whilst getting in the remaining quick-draws usually found a good enough sequence for RPing next go.

Also it played to my limited skill set: I am weak and slow but pretty good at recovering at semi-rests on steep ground.  I took 50 minutes to on-sight a long, steep F7b called Homme a l'envers at Mevlana - extended shake outs between each panic-stricken section of tufa wrestling - more to clear my senses than anything! 

As a side note for potential visitors, whilst Turkey is good place to accumulate F7 on-sights, the climbs in the low/mid F6 range often seemed hard for the grade.  A lot of F6a+ to 6b+s involved burly tufa wrestling or steep crimping that made them feel far more physical and sustained than the average UK comparator -  more reminiscent of a F6c+ up a big indoor lead wall than the slabby nastiness more common in the low F6s.  Certainly made the "warm-up" interesting.

nik at work

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#3599 Re: YYFY!!!
February 19, 2013, 12:20:09 pm
Nice one Moose.  :thumbsup:

 

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