YYFY!!! (Read 2294434 times)

Monolith · May 13, 2012, 10:05:08 am

Quote from: Nick B on May 12, 2012, 09:32:58 pm

Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.

Oldmanmatt · May 13, 2012, 10:16:53 am

Quote from: Monolith on May 13, 2012, 10:05:08 am

Quote from: Nick B on May 12, 2012, 09:32:58 pm
Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

This better not be some cruel hoax! Move over Stephen Fry.

More the bastard child of Simon Cowell / Victor Meldrew and Anne Robinson...
But Educated by a Stephen Fry, who's not been taking his meds...

SA Chris · May 13, 2012, 10:34:58 am

#everythingsshit is already trending

clm · May 13, 2012, 06:32:49 pm

The obvious

Gritlad · May 14, 2012, 11:07:52 am

Highballed Entropys Jaw yesterday, have been waiting to do for so long now and just had a fantastic day yesterday made all the better by this route, good times

Johnny Brown · May 14, 2012, 12:02:08 pm

Nice work, classic green door move that one...

erm, sam · May 14, 2012, 12:20:43 pm

Nice one, highballing Entropys Jaw is on my 'one day' list.. How many pads/spotters did you have? I assume the crux is pretty much as the top?

Gritlad · May 14, 2012, 12:29:48 pm

cheers. Erm, Sam, I had 4 pads and one spot, dont know about the crux, can imagine differant people thinking the crux is in differant places on it depending on how you climb it, looks like some people climb the crack pretty face on while I just used the crack for my right hand and right foot. perfectly fine with 4 pads, took a fall when my fingers were about 5mm from the top and slid down but the pads sort of slip a little and you land on your arse before you feel anything.
Hope this helps

Johnny Brown · May 14, 2012, 01:01:26 pm

Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

leeroy · May 14, 2012, 01:26:51 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2012, 01:01:26 pm

(thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

yeh thats how i remember it, marginal...

Gritlad · May 14, 2012, 01:35:58 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2012, 01:01:26 pm

Never seen anyone do it like that, did you not feel a bit close to wild thing? Usual way is a step through off the little ramp, leading to a good foothold out on the right, this then sets you up face-on for the top bit (thumb-down sprags!) which is intimidating but usually okay...

this contains beta, bad beta but still beta

yeah thats what I did but instead of thumb down sprags e.t.c i used a gaston in the crack to get stood up on the sort of good foothold/ nipple type thing, left on smeary/edge then my left hand was just pasted holding nothing on the left while i moved my right hand up to a sort of crimp/pinch up in the crack then up. So for the most part your left hand is just there for balance

seen in this video from 3mins onwards

fried · May 14, 2012, 05:36:33 pm

Brilliant spotting at 1.40

Wood FT · May 14, 2012, 07:46:54 pm

Quote from: fried on May 14, 2012, 05:36:33 pm

Brilliant spotting at 1.40

mark s · May 14, 2012, 08:57:09 pm

Quote from: Nick B on May 12, 2012, 09:32:58 pm

Lee Anderson is now on twitter: www.twitter.com/adenseloner

i was following him,but got bored so ive unfollowed him now

Slide · May 14, 2012, 11:12:04 pm

Great spotting indeed

a dense loner · May 15, 2012, 02:31:41 pm

Thank fuck for that, I can start again

SA Chris · May 16, 2012, 10:07:24 am

Did project line in Muchalls Cave yesterday night. Could only do first move 1 in 5 attempts and then kept dropping last move, but finally nailed it as it was getting colder, but before moisture started condensing on the rock. No idea of grade though, as although it's not my style (steep) it definitely plays to my strengths - reachy!

SA Chris · May 16, 2012, 10:32:50 am

No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!

Fultonius · May 16, 2012, 11:33:16 am

Quote from: SA Chris on May 16, 2012, 10:32:50 am

No. See the DSLR Video post!!!! Cut out mid crux!

No video, no send. Back around.

Just kidding! Nice one Chris, might be up your way the the other half this weekend. May try and sneak out for a couple hours of bouldering.

SA Chris · May 16, 2012, 01:09:00 pm

Holler! You know where we are. I'm busy early Sat morning and lunchtime (I think) , but other than DIY and gardening, mostly free. The new bouldering cave is a lovely spot, even a non-boulderer would love chilling there. And can do the recording!

erm, sam · May 17, 2012, 01:12:37 pm

yahoo! If the "bastards" do give you an amazing can't refuse offer, refuse it! The Chief beckons...

lukeh · May 20, 2012, 12:56:17 pm

Finally made it to France for my first Font trip and bagged six 7's despite dodgy elbows, can't wait for more!

erm, sam · May 20, 2012, 06:16:07 pm

Good trip!

b3n99 · May 20, 2012, 06:57:54 pm

First 8a sport route today, H1N1 at Dinas. Went pretty quick too, second go from bottom second session this year and a play for one session last year. Uper happy, good to be back on a rope.

YYFY!

lukeyboy · May 20, 2012, 07:54:24 pm

Nice work ben!!