[Baldy]

Finally did a 7B+ that wont be downgraded or taken away from me any time soon!

Carnage in 1 session,
just planning my second trip for a few days time too.
Psyched to get on arabesque and the sit of carnage YYFY if the weather and my muscles are amenable.

[Paul B]

Good effort, but the sit? There's far too much quality only minutes away...

[dave]

Carnage assis is an eliminate too, a fact often overlooked.

[Baldy]

eliminate how?

I confess, I only want to do the sit for my first 7C, I already did the sequence for the top so I figure it might be the best shot I have.

[dave]

I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?

[Paul B]

Walk on up the path and try Noir Desir or Tristesse.

[Baldy]

I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...
Maybe next year, or with a troop of psyched beta bunnies it might feel a little less implausible.

Tristesse looks scary, but it might be worth a go.

Bleau suggests that the eliminate is largely ignored now at roughly the same grade...

[Paul B]

I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...

Funny, I just got a lesson (or five) in body position.

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

any advice for interviewing for an RA position? Its slightly awkward as two of the appointing lecturers were both RAs in my office for the past 4 or so years and hence know me on a personal level. I think I'm going to find it pretty difficult to handle that correctly. I'm currently seeking out all the papers they've published in the research field over the past few years and reading the background papers cited in these too. I guess I'll likely be asked to summarise my thesis and talk about that as well.

[rodma]

I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?

I think you're bang on the money there.

For the sit, as you said it goes chipped crimp for rh, then lh to the lh of the two crimps and then flick/jump/whatever the rh directly through to the boss.

I confess, I only want to do the sit for my first 7C, I already did the sequence for the top so I figure it might be the best shot I have.

It's a problem (the sitter) that I have not done, for the reasons set out by Paul, but I can kinda see why you would be excited if it becomes your first at the grade

[Duma]

I had a go at noir desir and got a lesson in just how weak I am...

Funny, I just got a lesson (or five) in body position.

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

Took me a while to work out you weren't still talking about Noir Desir then! 

[andy popp]

It can be very uncertain getting established, and of course for too many it remains very insecure, but when I works its a brilliant career - I love it, feel privileged and wouldn't change it for anything.

any advice for interviewing for an RA position? Its slightly awkward as two of the appointing lecturers were both RAs in my office for the past 4 or so years and hence know me on a personal level. I think I'm going to find it pretty difficult to handle that correctly. I'm currently seeking out all the papers they've published in the research field over the past few years and reading the background papers cited in these too. I guess I'll likely be asked to summarise my thesis and talk about that as well.

The situation of being interviewed by people you know is very common in academia - we all work in relatively small fields and get to know everyone. People get quite good at separating work and the personal - it can be total gloves off stuff in a seminar and then all fine and happy in the bar afterwards. Good academics are interested in good work above all else. You sound like you're doing the right things. I presume its for an already specified project? - work out a story about why you're the best person to carry it out. My first post doc was along way outside my real interest but I got it through an argument about what my perspective would bring to it (which they hadn't thought about).

[Nibile]

Finally the quest is over. I am officially mental. Ready for the asylum and the straightjacket. I am on the bus, as high as if'd snorted a meter of cocaine, after one of the best fingerboarding sessions of my life.
The walls were trembling from The Who, and I felt bolted to the holds. Managed to hang the monos with ring fingers with 6 kg on.
Now give me my pills nurse.

[Ru]

I think you're not meant to match on the holds after the chipped crimp and before the big high boss. Check on bleau.info. Its totally bullshit and makes no sense but thats what its graded for. I presume they do it like this so that the sitter is a 7c instead of just a harder 7b+ maybe?

Think it's given 7c these days however you do it. The eliminate was graded 7c before the start hold was chipped off.

[Will Hunt]

Not a very big YYFY but I will be signing for a house tomorrow that is t-minus 1 mile's walk from Shipley Glen 

[tregiffian]

Can you get a season ticket on the tramway???

[ben]

First 7B yesterday  4 sessions and some quality French beta got me up it in the end.. l'oeuf at Petit Bois

[a dense loner]

l'oeuf is quality.

carnage assis is a piece of shit that has never seen 7c. if carnage was your first 7b+ and you was to do the sitter nx go you would ave done 2 7b+'s. don't shoot the messenger i didn't invent maths

[Grubes]

Climbed my first Font 6C yesterday after encouragement and better beta from tomtom and Falling Down

[SA Chris]

Unexpected, but not unwelcome, payrise. Which was nice, especially as last one was 1st Jan.

[lagerstarfish]

Yesterday I took my first unaided steps since busting my ankle on 28th January

Today the ankle feels OK and I have done some more

YYFY

[GCW]

Good news, big man.   

[SA Chris]

Nice one, just don't overdo it!

[lagerstarfish]

don't overdo it!

the Black Walker is back on

[GCW]

I thought I recognised you!

[Jaspersharpe]

Good stuff.