YYFY!!! (Read 2294440 times)

chris05 · May 05, 2011, 11:21:41 am

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Nice one Pyrosis

Hoping for a similar breakthrough myself!

SA Chris · May 05, 2011, 11:45:44 am

Nice one, some good ticks there. Would love to do SSA especially.

AndyR · May 05, 2011, 05:10:51 pm

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?

Good work!

Was out at the Buttermilks yesterday morning and finally managed Green Wall Centre - old school V6 crimping - YYFY!

pyrosis · May 05, 2011, 07:38:49 pm

Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you!

-Tavis

AndyR · May 06, 2011, 05:43:54 am

Quote from: pyrosis on May 05, 2011, 07:38:49 pm

Good Job on the Green Wall! I can't figure that thing out! You up there today? Maybe I will run into you!

-Tavis

Just been up there this evening and did Seven Spanish Angels - nice problem!
Enjoy the sun and low humidity - I'm heading back to Vegas and then home to Vancouver.

pyrosis · May 06, 2011, 06:01:02 am

Safe travels! Another beautiful day in the Buttermilk today. Flowers and snakes everywhere

Nibile · May 07, 2011, 09:14:54 am

I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?

Baldy · May 07, 2011, 11:04:35 am

pull out the guns and go for it.

tomtom · May 07, 2011, 11:08:50 am

Quote from: Nibile on May 07, 2011, 09:14:54 am

I'm here under the roof extension project. Will it go?

YES! GO Lore!

andy popp · May 07, 2011, 11:42:00 am

We need a live news feed.

fatdoc · May 07, 2011, 02:43:01 pm

nothing harder than 6b in font for me this year... climbed 6 days in a row, with the assistance of ibuprofen and antihydral.

brilliant gite

brilliant food

brilliant family holiday

finally done a whole blue circuit in it,s entirity... Guichot... got truly beasted by the red circuit there... it was rather hot I have to say...and was really scared on the 6s to the right of the 8a.... pulled over a 6b with 4 spotters whimpering!!

Ackbar · May 08, 2011, 10:36:12 am

YYFY - The other week I visited for the first time a really great bouldering spot near to my home
NNFN - Then the next time I went, the farmer had smeared all the holds in cow shit (it happens in Austria)
YYFY - Dejected from this, I then found another boulder problem which I decided was going to become a long term project
NNFN - As it is about 3 font grades above my current standard I quickly screwed my fingers up
YYFY - The a friend took me to a place where there are hundreds of nice boulders scattered through the forest
NNFN - But I couldn't climb anything as my fingers were still screwed
YYFY - But we then met some guys who had been climbing in England and said they had gone to have a look at Hubble
NNFN - Then they said, "you know, Hubble, the Jerry Moffatt route"

:-D

Fiend · May 09, 2011, 10:19:23 am

There's winter climbing in camel-land?? :O

AndyR · May 11, 2011, 10:59:19 pm

Quote from: thesiger on May 09, 2011, 07:11:24 am

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...

Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!

butterworthtom · May 11, 2011, 11:54:35 pm

Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby?

AndyR · May 12, 2011, 06:26:45 am

Quote from: butterworthtom on May 11, 2011, 11:54:35 pm

Does that mean no Squamish this Summer then Toby?

You coming out this summer Tom? Drop me a line if you want a spot...

AndyR · May 12, 2011, 06:32:27 am

Quote from: thesiger on May 12, 2011, 05:25:52 am

Quote from: AndyR on May 11, 2011, 10:59:19 pm
Quote from: thesiger on May 09, 2011, 07:11:24 am

(On the NNFN side, this has come at the expense of quitting work this summer and moving full-time to Squamish but that is definite for next year, in fact the wife is now saying that we can leave as early as next spring...
Yeah yeah - I'll believe it when I see it!

It will happen, really, honest. The wife is now on board and making various bourgeois/ elitist Vancouver schooling plans for Thesiger Jr from 2012 which should be irrreversible.

Baldy · May 14, 2011, 01:57:03 am

managed to get up after 4 hours sleep and sneak in a short sharp session in UCR while the centre was empty - it is actually quite pleasant when no one is around...
Finger protested but still did a (ucr) 6c lead!
Hoorah!

Then went home, slept, had a shower and went to the library for more work!

robertostallioni · May 14, 2011, 07:18:40 am

Back to the library?

Thast more FB than YYFY.

Maybe YYFFS?

tomtom · May 14, 2011, 10:18:52 am

Quote from: robertostallioni on May 14, 2011, 07:18:40 am

Back to the library?

Thast more FB than YYFY.

Maybe YYFFS?

p0rn library?

Baldy · May 15, 2011, 02:22:39 pm

sorry, was meant to be an expression of my pleasure at having snuck in a cheeky climb between revision sessions.
I'll go back to my pr0n library now.

Yoof · May 17, 2011, 08:25:28 pm

I've just fought my way to the top of the motherboard at the works.

- I'm on the way to being strong!

chris j · May 18, 2011, 08:42:25 am

Finally ended my siege on Empire of the Sun at Ansteys last night. 20-odd days of effort over three years (6 week breaks from climbing due to work every time you get close can be a real downer). Probably 10 falls from the traverse before the final bolt, one 'jammed gri-gri' incident when trying to pull slack to clip the last bolt, one leg behind the rope upside down rib-cracking smack into the rock and now I have an empty void in my life until I come up with the next project.

For anyone interested I reckon the deciding factor was shedding 3/4 stone through half-marathon training in March and April as I didn't climb between the end of November and start of May so I'm not strong right now...

Doylo · May 18, 2011, 11:40:29 am

Nice one, definitely a worthy seige!

Monolith · May 18, 2011, 09:39:21 pm

Though not my ideal YYFY, I've nearly managed to finish rewriting my 3000 word technical specification report that perished in the Great Hard Drive Debacle of '11 with two days of focussed effort and nasal breathing. And it is true, things are better the second time around. Slowly, steadily, breathing, centering, emerging from the catacombs of a mental void. Powered by Jelly Dinosaurs and ambient music.