YYFY!!! (Read 2294433 times)

GCW · April 21, 2011, 02:43:43 pm

Give it a few years and your house is full of pink and Troy/Gabriella, you won't be saying that!!

SA Chris · April 21, 2011, 02:49:47 pm

Off to cottage at Rhue near Ullapool for the week as of Saturday, boulders in walking distance of cottage, and forecast as good as you could hope for in Scotland;

http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Ullapool/long.html

and nae midges yet.

rginns · April 21, 2011, 03:28:25 pm

bit of a non climbing YYFY.

Finally moved house last week, now living where we want to live and closer to the quarries..

Fiend · April 21, 2011, 03:35:00 pm

http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/

vs

http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/Scotland/Lochaline/

$:-\$ $:-\$ $:-\$

Might see you up there next weekend or even this one, Chris. You never know.

SA Chris · April 21, 2011, 03:39:56 pm

You got my number mate, you are welcome. We might even have a spare bed, or comfy camper van if you want to avoid the wee man's 6:30 wake up call. We will be there early afternoon 23rd and will be away late morning on 30th though.

nik at work · April 25, 2011, 07:27:11 pm

Well I've been home from Font since lunchtime and have managed to resist the temptation to post on this thread for a few hours but...

On what has certainly been the hottest Font trip I've ever been on I managed to get out for an early session on Tuesday and managed to shaz-waz a flash of this:
http://bleau.info/guichot/895.html
Jasper will be disgusted by the complete lack of bikes and Spaniards in this ascent, I replaced them with a wife and a four year old.

Thanks to Neil for suggesting it as something worth looking at.

andy popp · April 25, 2011, 07:39:40 pm

SKILLS!!!!

account_inactive · April 25, 2011, 10:25:15 pm

http://vimeo.com/groups/67003/videos/21430060

robertostallioni · April 25, 2011, 10:55:13 pm

So, fresh on the heels of the old 8a/8A/E8 first ascent shizzle, I guess there's no pressure at all to flash an 8a now.

rginns · April 25, 2011, 11:21:57 pm

Good. Work. That. Man.

GCW · April 26, 2011, 08:45:58 am

Easier for the short.

Fiend · April 26, 2011, 09:26:38 am

Quote from: robertostallioni on April 25, 2011, 10:55:13 pm

So, fresh on the heels of the old 8a/8A/E8 first ascent shizzle, I guess there's no pressure at all to flash an 8a now.

Hehe spot on! Nice one nik.

account_inactive · April 26, 2011, 04:52:39 pm

Everyone is on crack this week

nik at work · April 26, 2011, 10:53:51 pm

Given my performance at Kilnsey today I'm a waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy off an 8a flash...

I'm not sure why everyone is on crack?? but that's the badger in the video Dylan linked to.

KH · April 27, 2011, 03:31:11 pm

Had a massive YYFY moment last night when I climbed my long term project, The Riot at Dinas Rock.

I've been working this for two years and had fallen off the the last move over 60 times! It has been a hard earned YYFY!

Jaspersharpe · April 27, 2011, 03:39:52 pm

Quote from: KH on April 27, 2011, 03:31:11 pm

I've been working this for two years and had fallen off the the last move over 60 times!

"What would Sharma do?"

Nice one!

Muenchener · April 29, 2011, 01:12:32 pm

Quote from: Muenchener on November 22, 2010, 07:00:27 am

MTG: 6b os in Arco at Easter

Phillip Flann at Regina del Lago - sadly very much not to be confused with the similarly-named legendary Dolomites classic, but good climbing nevertheless.

My third go at a 6b this week, confirming what I already knew about my relative strengths & weaknesses. Philip Flann has a short crux section over a bulge, with a comfy rest beforehand to look at and plan the moves. The other two I tried were steeper and more sustained, with more straightforward moves, but I lack the experience/confidence to see the sequences and go at them quickly enough.

New MTG: overhanging pumpy 6b onsight.

Also ticked a 6B yesterday on the campsite boulders at Prabi.

Duma · May 01, 2011, 01:28:31 am

I went to Hartland Quay for the first time last week. It was brilliant.
Esp. Clinical Edge.
YYFY.

mark s · May 01, 2011, 04:27:02 pm

Quote from: rginns on April 21, 2011, 02:38:20 pm

Quote from: Yossarian on April 20, 2011, 08:02:00 pm
I have a baby daughter!
Nice one!
Daughters are great.

2nd that

slackline · May 03, 2011, 11:34:21 am

Brilliant five days in Font, nothing of note ('cause I'm shit) but got a circuit done four out of five days (one day only had half a day due to morning rain). Highlights were blues at Istatis (n = 49) and Roche aux Sablons (n = 46).

Won't be leaving it four years between visits next time.

Rocksteady · May 03, 2011, 11:55:16 am

Redpointed Rubicon on Sunday - really enjoyed the moves and line of the climb, great tick for me. Very happy

Baldy · May 03, 2011, 03:06:24 pm

After busting my finger a month before font I went with very little in mind,

but I came back with 3 'project' ticks
(read unfinished business from other trips)

Jet Set - went on our final morning session before driving home

Graviton - Attempted after Jet Set. First attempt of the trip too

Holey Moley - 3 years coming for this one, eventually pissed it first attempt of a morning session. YYFY!!!

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.

Well Chuffed

Unfortunately I also managed to do literally no uni work while I was out there.
Back to Supramolecular chemistry now...

Yoof · May 03, 2011, 08:44:49 pm

In one day: first F7b, flashed F7b+ :D

mr__j5 · May 04, 2011, 10:34:39 am

Quote from: Baldy on May 03, 2011, 03:06:24 pm

...

Also did a whole load of other things I didnt intend to try, including a flash of lapin ou canard (really easy for 7a?)
Only done a few 7a's in the forest prior to this trip so something must be going well with training for this.

After doing nothing more than a few 6b+ in Font last week, I pulled on to lapin ou canard on the last morning because others wanted to go back to it for a second go at it.

I topped it within about an hour, making it my second ever 7a after Trackside. So really pleased.

It felt harder than Trackside to me, but definitely at the easy end of 7a.

pyrosis · May 05, 2011, 11:17:58 am

My goal this spring had been 2x7A, one on granite on which I'm weak, and one on tuff on which I am strong. In feb I had managed to send Karma (7A, tuff), my first and only 7A for the year.

Untill last week

Last two weeks I've managed...

Seven Spanish Angels 7A (granite)
Bowling Pin Sit 7A (granite)
The Orgasm 7A (tuff)
The Hulk 7A (tuff)
and DIsco Diva 7B (tuff) YYFY!!!

I'd say I passed the goal!! Feels so good to finally break through a plateau. I feel as strong as I ever have. Will be interesting to see how tomorrows Buttermilking will go.... Looking for 7A+ now, High Plains Drifter?