UKBouldering.com

YYFY!!! (Read 2294452 times)

butterworthtom

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 269
  • Karma: +17/-2
    • Incoherent Rambling's of a Lakes Boulderer
#1425 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2010, 05:33:30 pm
Not really climbing related. Although it does mean I will have time to go climbing again:

YYFY!
I finished my dissertation.  :beer2: 15,000 words and 57 pages.
It's probably all shit though.

and also a NNFN!
I have lectures again on Monday and my first one is Nuclear reactor engineering at 9:00. Heavy.

chillax

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 664
  • Karma: +28/-1
#1426 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2010, 07:49:32 pm
Took a monster lob off a boulder problem at fair head today, missed the pads, landed on a pile of big pointy rocks and didn't break my legs! In fact not so much as a scratch! Major YYFY that I still have unrestricted walking privileges  :dance1:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29594
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1427 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2010, 07:57:42 pm
one of the 9 lives cashed in

chillax

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 664
  • Karma: +28/-1
#1428 Re: YYFY!!!
February 07, 2010, 08:02:11 pm
Indeed, don't think i've ever fallen that far on a route before! Had to have a little talk to myself afterwards. Do not intend to repeat.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3628
  • Karma: +317/-2
#1429 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 02:56:07 pm
I totally ticked one of my project lines today in the mintiest minty mint conditions.

Starting jug, big easy move to pants sloper, good heel hook for right foot, marginal toe hook for left foot, match sloper, shuffle hands sideways on shit slopers for a couple of moves, take off toe hook and at the same time dyno up and left pushing off the heel hook for a good but hard to catch/hold flake hold (very cool move), all other limbs flailing wildly, match hands get feet on then finish as for an existing 7A+. Name and grade currently undecided.

Amazing, thought it was going to be a season or two's worth of siegeing but no, cold crispiness coupled with a really big pooh this morning was the recipe for crush.

And it's my birthday.

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#1430 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 02:58:25 pm
How many chimp years equate one human year?

PS Happy Birthday and good effort.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#1431 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 03:01:00 pm
Happy Birthday Nik

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#1432 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 03:27:20 pm
Good effort Nik, happy veterancy too.
I told you they feel easy in the end.
 :thumbsup:

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#1433 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 03:32:27 pm
Good effort Nik, happy veterancy too.
I told you they feel easy in the end.
 :thumbsup:

Is Nik only 40, my god he must have had a hard paper round.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29594
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#1434 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 03:50:38 pm
Nice one loon. Happy Birthday.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3628
  • Karma: +317/-2
#1435 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 04:04:52 pm
Cheers peeps.

I have now got a name:
Titus Gaukroger

A (shit) photo showing the line:


And a grade:
I'm going to stick my neck out and say 8A+ (but still easier than Niks Wall :))

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#1436 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 04:13:54 pm
And a less shit photo showing the slopers at the start  :)


Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5962
  • Karma: +244/-5
#1437 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 04:23:15 pm
I have now got a name:
Titus Gaukroger
Why?
and where?
effort.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3628
  • Karma: +317/-2
#1438 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 04:34:47 pm
Titus Gaukroger is the name of a gentleman who (at some point in history) rented the vicarage of the church at the bottom of the road leading to the crag, and I just liked the name.
The crag is Mytholm Steeps, which is across the valley from Heptonstall.
It has several good problems now and a couple of (very hard) obvious projects to go. Unfortunately it gets very green very quickly so whilst the problems are good (and they really are very good) it has fickle conditions. Today I was lucky to catch a breeze coming up the valley onto the rock so things felt dry and grippy. But it quite often feels a bit damp underhand even when clean.

Oh and the big obvious rock scar was there when I started trying the line, wasn't me guv.

Slackers I think that photo is a bit deceptive, I'd say the wall overhangs more than the photo suggests and the slopers are hence worse (although it is a beautiful line of slopers).

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5723
  • Karma: +362/-5
#1439 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 04:56:38 pm
Excellent! Those slopers look both lovely and horrible at the same time.

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#1440 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 05:27:06 pm
 Nice one Nik - those slopers do look rather gorgeous  :agree:

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1936
  • Karma: +120/-0
#1441 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 07:31:59 pm
Effort Nik, I was going to ask on here if anyone knew anymore about this. I've only been once, in the drizzle, and spied this line but haven't been back since. I'd be keen to go back. This is pretty near where you live I'm guessing? Well done again.

 

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3628
  • Karma: +317/-2
#1442 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 08:16:56 pm
Yes it's only a five minute drive so worth a punt for me whatever the weather. I wouldn't want to be driving for an hour to try a specific problem here though, not because the problems aren't worth it (they are generally very high quality) but rather because of the fickle nature of the conditions and the speed with which the greenery reclaims the rock. But it's worth a call in now as the problems on those first two butresses are all pretty clean. I have also left a (very shit wobbly) ladder there to aid cleaning. It's worth having a rope for cleaning also as even after brushing various bit of detritus will fall from the plantlife above in a short time.

There is a very obvious project with the same start but heading off right along the slopey shelf which will be nails. Sadly the left to right traverse of the whole shelf is not really do-able as the start would be silly and contrived.

I've taken some pics with a view to putting together a bit of a topo so I'll make all aware if/when I do that.

Ru (or indeed anybody else) if you are keen to get up there give me a shout and I'll meet up with you if I can.

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#1443 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 08:55:06 pm
Good effort nik!

On a slightly less impressive note I've just had my first pain free session since December..........only 18 training days to font  :dance1:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5806
  • Karma: +187/-5
#1444 Re: YYFY!!!
February 08, 2010, 09:55:22 pm
What's a pain free session?

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8863
  • Karma: +275/-42
#1445 Re: YYFY!!!
February 09, 2010, 01:37:21 am
one where you're not trying hard enough...

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8045
  • Karma: +745/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#1446 Re: YYFY!!!
February 09, 2010, 10:07:54 am
i am proud, very proud to report that yesterday, during a monster session, i nailed 158 with brit spacings.
it's a big big YYFY for me.
so, doing 159 is something really unbelievable!!! i got to 8 so fucking stretched, thinking about getting to 9 is absurd.
big big waddage to all 159 crushers, that's real power.

Nizza

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 128
  • Karma: +22/-0
    • Increasing The Calibre
#1447 Re: YYFY!!!
February 09, 2010, 10:42:29 am
Good effort Nibs, it gets easier with time! Done old school 1-5-9 ie 1-5-8.5 but not new school 1-5-9. That is damn hard. Got a mate who has done new school 1-5-9 up and down and up again. Proper waddage!

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#1448 Re: YYFY!!!
February 09, 2010, 10:09:03 pm
Beast Lore! I have only managed 1-5-8 once on the large rungs left arm leading, can't get close right arm leading  :spank: Need to put more than 2 weeks of campus effort in every year (usually stop after 4 sessions in 2 weeks as my inner elbows get sharp pains  :thumbsdown:)

Had a minor yyfy today finally climbing Texas Hold Em an old nemesis at trowbarrow as well as that 6c groove, then the sitter to the left of vitruvian (pretty full on for your 5 V points  :-\)

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8175
  • Karma: +368/-38
#1449 Re: YYFY!!!
February 09, 2010, 10:10:58 pm
That groove sitter is worthy of 7b IMHO.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal