[Doylo]

Shit, I'll never manage that in 3 weeks

Yeh font grades for you too Jim!

[Will Hunt]

Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with. Good conditions on Sunday. Went after a few goes with the final method.

[tomtom]

Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with. Good conditions on Sunday. Went after a few goes with the final method.

Good effort Will  (it was my nemesis of 2009!) how did it finally go?

[Stubbs]

Demon Wall Roof laid to rest. A long time to figure out the method that I could do it with.

What did you just do a new problem and not immediately declare it easy?!  

Congratulations, a good tick at the crag that just keeps giving, and harder then Juju club and Blockbuster, according to one frustrated boulderer from the wrong side of the Pennines who was there yesterday!

[Will Hunt]

RH to jug in roof. LF to lip. LF on small polished smeary thing on starting block (the higher of the two footholds). RF toe in the big pocket thing at the back. Scissor them legs (ta, TommyTwoTone  ). RH to lip. LH to high crimp. RH to high crimp. Sort foot out into the jug in roof (found this to be the hardest bit. Got a bit of an inflexible leg since last December). Up to the jug in the break cutting loose with everything else on the way. Finish.

Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I tried every other way than this extensivley and this is the only way I could get to work for me. Seriously. EVERY other way.



Benchmark 6b? 

[nai]

Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I was one of the guys on Si's Arete when you slipped, looked like it was going to be nasty for a moment.  Good effort, you looked pretty pleased.

I had my own YYFY moment too, flashed 7a for the first time.  I knew Patta's Arete would suit a stumpy with a crimp fetish when I saw it and after staring it down for a while managed to get it first go.

[robertostallioni]

Skills, Ian. Thats a fine progression.

[Will Hunt]

Good effort. We had a quick look at Patta's but couldn't really suss it. Handholds all look fine but the footholds cause serious issue.

High heel on the starting holds as soon as you can?

[andy popp]

Good effort Will.

[Jim]

you don't need footholds, pattas is easy, just watch the block underneath if you fall, it looks like you could easily tool yourself on it

[Will Hunt]

They looked strong on that. I'll give it a go like that, ta.

[Stubbs]

I always thought you were meant to start with your hands on the slab to the right, as well as your feet?  Makes it a bit harder to campus

[nai]

Good effort. We had a quick look at Patta's but couldn't really suss it. Handholds all look fine but the footholds cause serious issue.

High heel on the starting holds as soon as you can?

From the crimp I snatched up to the lowest holds on the arete, feet not doing much, then put a heel on the crimp.  But I'm short and it suited me that way, my taller friends were a bit bunched trying it that way.

Met moose there too yesterday and he warned about that block too.

[Jim]

I think in the guide it says start from the crimps although peoples views are mixed, I don't think it adds anything to the climbing starting from the slab, both ways felt just as easy

[tomtom]

Will, thats exactly the way I did it (fellow lankster) matching the crimp on the face was the part that made it much easier for me..

I've tried Patta's 3 or 4 times and never get off the deck. Its possibly because I'm shit at campus moves and those long legs just seem to get in the way. I've tried throwing a heel up and that all felt wrong - so decided to give it up until I'm stronger!

[Stubbs]

The excellent blunt arete, start from the crimps on the lip or (better) from the slab down on the right.

both ways felt just as easy

Because you're a beast!

I use my heel on the first crimps until I've got the good holds about half way up the arete then swing my left foot onto the hold down and left that Jim uses to reach the slopey break.

[a dense loner]

thats a boulder problem? i thought it was just jims way of easily walking round the side

[GCW]

If you start where Jim does it's piss.
If you start down right on the slab you are forced to use the heel, and it's 7a.  And not very pleasant.

[Fiend]

YYFY, finally got away for some nice Scottish trad climbing in great winter sun conditions. Really chuffed to do some good chuffing after a good few months choading around. Hope to have a few more weekends like that this winter 

[SA Chris]

Welcome to a new world. There is so much great rock in the Gairloch area. Check out the stuff around Gruinard bay too, and the Stone Valley crags. And Loch Tollaidh. etc

[butters]

Welcome to a new world. There is so much great rock in the Gairloch area. Check out the stuff around Gruinard bay too, and the Stone Valley crags. And Loch Tollaidh. etc

Your recommendation for Gruinard Bay is about 5 days too late Chris...

[SA Chris]

There's more than just one crag there. Around a couple of dozen I think.

[willackers]

YYFY!

Just been out for a lamp session and crushed King Kong at Dumby, abseiling down and taking the ladders to give it a clean finally paid off!, GET IN!!

[tommytwotone]

RH to jug in roof. LF to lip. LF on small polished smeary thing on starting block (the higher of the two footholds). RF toe in the big pocket thing at the back. Scissor them legs (ta, TommyTwoTone  ). RH to lip. LH to high crimp. RH to high crimp. Sort foot out into the jug in roof (found this to be the hardest bit. Got a bit of an inflexible leg since last December). Up to the jug in the break cutting loose with everything else on the way. Finish.

Then raz up 3 chockstones chimney. Sqeal with excitement on the way down, trip over and look a dick in front of all the other climbers.

I tried every other way than this extensivley and this is the only way I could get to work for me. Seriously. EVERY other way.



Benchmark 6b? 

Sorry Will, only just seen this - nice work!

You were bloomin' close the other week, wondered how long it'd be before you got it....

[Jim]

very brave going down dumby after dark