[Jaspersharpe]

Good stuff Neil. Sometimes it's all the sweeter when you've had to put the hours (and hour and hours) in!

[neil h]

Nice one Neil.

For me it will have to be next year (or later this year if I'm very lucky)...

found a good way to do the end, dont know why i didnt thnk of it months ago, so easy, you remember how we were trying it, check this

Good stuff Neil. Sometimes it's all the sweeter when you've had to put the hours (and hour and hours) in!

cheers jasper. hours and hours for sure, and lots and lots of blood, the way I do the drop into the pocket and jump slices the back of my leg to peices

[Paul B]

Where the f*ck is the lank sequence smiley? 

Nice one neil, I reckon the key to hitting the pocket is to totally ignore the handy thumb catch next to it and hit it like a three fingered hook!

[neil h]

dont know why i struggled on the end when yes indeed i did lank it, but god its so easy like that..

I have never had a problem going into the pocket, its the jump from the heel hook that wa the crux for me,

[slackline]

YYFY!!!

Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Its been on my ticklist for some time, and what an amazingly good and varied route. :D

[Fiend]

Hurrah for trad!

I backed off Moyers Buttress years ago. I also more recently fell off trying to reverse to a rest beneath the roof of Stormbringer.

Incidentally if you're ever driving on the A66 with a couple of hours to spare, divert off to Pallet Crag and do Kermit, it's the Moyer's Buttress of Pallet Crag - a smaller easier version but a cool wee route 

[tommytwotone]

YYFY!!!

Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Its been on my ticklist for some time, and what an amazingly good and varied route. :D

Great work - did it myself the other week, had been a glaring omission from my climbing CV for a while. Thought the slab was a touch more though-provoking that I would have liked!

[slackline]

Cheers guys.

Great work - did it myself the other week, had been a glaring omission from my climbing CV for a while. Thought the slab was a touch more though-provoking that I would have liked!

Good skills too.  Main problem with the upper slab was that protecting it seemed to use the best hand holds up!

[andybfreeman]

small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

[dave]

I'd give you 7a easily for toit de cul de chien!

[Oli]

I reckon Cul de Chien is fair at 7A. Did it both with and without the chip, and it didn't seem to make much difference.

[Andy B]

le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

That's ridiculous, of course it's 7a.

[Clart]

I reckon Cul de Chien is fair at 7A. Did it both with and without the chip, and it didn't seem to make much difference.

Are you on about the seriously improved right foot smear (now a good positive edge) in the middle of the bottom face? I thought it was loads better than I remembered. Agree that it doesn't make much difference to the grade though, 7A.

[dave]

I think a lot of the grade bullshit on TDCDC comes from fact that it used to be done just hanging the roof pocket with feet in front of you and pulling for the lip pocket, in the days before mats since A, putting heel above your head in the back of the roof would have been potentially terminal, and B as paulB will attest to, the rear end of the human foot is a recent innovation.

so when mats come in and the heel beta gets found the old guard probably felt hard done to that people no longer han to essentially do a font 7b mono pull to tick a 7a, plus it made it easier for the tall, and downgraded that method in the guides (hence it always used to get a split 6c/7a grade. the fact of the matter is that the heel way was really fair 7a, and the non-heel beta is probably 7a+/b or harder though less scary. then that big foothold got chipped in recent years. to be honest given this is one of the most famous problem in font I've no idea why locals/cosiroc didn't just cement up the chip and look after it a bit. people probably should avoid this chip just on principle, if you can do it with the chip then i recon you can do it without.

[moose]

YYFY!!!
Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Good work fella.... I remember procrastinating for ages over that move back onto the front face - getting incredibly pumped hanging from the break before going for it in rather frantic style.  I hope you celebrated with some cakes from the cafe on the green in Baslow!

Had a YYFY of my own from the weekend: finally climbed at Malham.  It had been a shameful omission given that I'm a limestone loving Yorkshireman - especially considering the amount of climbing I've done at the likes of Stoney and various Peak quarries.  After Wombat and Crossbones the rest of the trad season has a lot to live up to.

[tomtom]

YYFY!!!
Minor in the grand scheme of things, but I on-sighted Moyers Buttress this afternoon.

Good work fella.... I remember procrastinating for ages over that move back onto the front face - getting incredibly pumped hanging from the break before going for it in rather frantic style.  I hope you celebrated with some cakes from the cafe on the green in Baslow!

Had a YYFY of my own from the weekend: finally climbed at Malham.  It had been a shameful omission given that I'm a limestone loving Yorkshireman - especially considering the amount of climbing I've done at the likes of Stoney and various Peak quarries.  After Wombat and Crossbones the rest of the trad season has a lot to live up to.

Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?

[moose]

Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?

Aye - did Underhand a couple of months back.  It's been a pretty good spring - lots of good things ticked-off from the list (Two Squirrels, The Grouch, Crimpy Roof etc).  Expect to see me back under that roof though - I've designs on the extension (and the Keel.. and Fieldside.... and Streaky's.... Almscliff: It's just one bloody thing after another).

[tomtom]

Did you get Underhand done Moose? Not seen you under there for a while..?

Aye - did Underhand a couple of months back.  It's been a pretty good spring - lots of good things ticked-off from the list (Two Squirrels, The Grouch, Crimpy Roof etc).  Expect to see me back under that roof though - I've designs on the extension (and the Keel.. and Fieldside.... and Streaky's.... Almscliff: It's just one bloody thing after another).

Good effort sir - I've been eyeing up underhand (though not played on it yet) so may well pester you for some beta when I pluck up the courage get round to it! T

[chappers]

small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

id give you more 7a for le toit than l'oblique!

good effort.

[andybfreeman]

small beer by comparison to most posts on here but I've just got back from font and am chuffed to bits with my first consensus 7a tick - l'oblique at Roche Aux Sabots.   

It more than makes up for my disappointment to find that my previous first 7a, le toit du cul de chien, only gets 6c in the 7 and 8 guide!

id give you more 7a for le toit than l'oblique!

good effort.

cheers guys.

i'd used the smear on tdcdc when i did it last august and i remember it being harder than i found l'oblique last week, but i'd put that down to a decent winter of training at the academy! i'm now trying to get some more time off work to head back before the end of may to finish some problems that i tried but failed due to lack of time (or strength/technique!). i am officially addicted to the forest!

[TobyD]

YYFY!!! best gogarth weekend ever: The Cow, Dogs of War, on yellow wall,  Penny / Katana on holyhead mt, South Sea Bubble, Blue Peter, the Cad on north stack wall and Metal Guru / Golden Bough finish in wen zawn..... not too upset with Monday's appalling weather after that lot!

[Tommy]

Nice one Southerner! Now that's what I call a good solid Gogarth weekend - fucking ace tick list that. Good to see you got the Cad done - I'm sure you cruised it in your usual nonchalant style.... 

Tom

[SA Chris]

That's some serious gogarth ticking.

[Johnny Brown]

Props to that. Two routes a day is usually plenty for me.

[Teaboy]

YYFY!!! best gogarth weekend ever: The Cow, Dogs of War, on yellow wall,  Penny / Katana on holyhead mt, South Sea Bubble, Blue Peter, the Cad on north stack wall and Metal Guru / Golden Bough finish in wen zawn..... not too upset with Monday's appalling weather after that lot!

Nice one. What was the second pitch of The Cow like as I hear differing views?