[dave]

whatever girlfriend.

[Will Hunt]

i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.

Daaaaaaaamn straight!

Stand on tippy toes and get the gaston and lower crimp.
Take the big foothold low down for the right and pull on.
Left toe up and out to a dish thing.
Right foot up onto the massive diagonal ledge thing.
Undercut the block with left.
Span up and right to the rail.
Jug on the top.

Pish.

[robertostallioni]

i hope you didn't pull on with the high gaston on NJ or you've missed 50% of the moves.

Daaaaaaaamn straight!

Stand on tippy toes and get the gaston and Jug on the top.

Pish.

[Stubbs]

Well done for doing a 6A and two moves of 7A, imagine what a YYFY moment it will be when you complete the problem...

[Jaspersharpe]

As I have neither 8a.spray scorecard nor blog to boast on I shall utilise this thread to shout about the fact that yesterday afternoon I crushed The Pinch at Crag X. Having got close on my third attempt a couple of weeks ago, I had been thwarted by the fact that the whole place was a minging wet mess when I'd been since then. Went for a speculative look yesterday and despite there being wet streaks all over the place, miraculously all the holds were dry. Managed to dry off some of the rest of the rock (so I didn't get my left hand covered in slime) and fourth go my foot stayed in the slot for the first move, I pulled like a bastard and destroyed the fucking thing. Yes yes fucking yes, it's 16 years since I did this problem and it was always one of my favourites. Like Nik says I didn't really think I'd get anywhere near 7C when I started climbing again so getting two proper ones in the bag so far this year is most pleasing. It's RAD, I'm SYKED and I don't care who punters me! 

Incidentally, I've read that this used to get 7C+ for using an "approved sequence" (which certainly isn't what I did). It sort of rings a bell but what's the "approved sequence"? Oh and does the sit start get 7C+ as it doesn't look like it'd add that much (I could be wrong!)?

[Kingy]

Nice one Jasper!! I have tried this once or twice, although am saving it until I have done Moffatrocity so have not really put much effort into it. I am mightily surprised you got lucky with the dampness although having said that its seems to be always worth a look - I know Tyler did the Thing last summer in the monsoon when the crag was piss wet but there were some random dry streaks where the holds were.

I am afraid I know nothing about the sit start as am not really a regular of the crag that doth not speak its name. Hopefully some locals will shed some light on it...

[Jaspersharpe]

Cheers Ted. Yeah there were rivers running down parts of the crag and The Pinch was basically the only problem with no wet holds. Seans was ok apart from the RH finishing edge which I dried out with a towel and chalk only to see it get dripped on almost immediately.  The Hulk was workable but the finish was soaked and The Thing looked ok. As you say, always worth a look!

[dobbin]

well done beast - I was at rubbercon and wondered about popping in before coming home - kinda figured it would probably be wet. I thought the pinch was 7c+, first I've heard that its 7c tbh. Nice work whatever it is.

[Paul B]

The Thing looked ok. As you say, always worth a look!

No doubt the juggy hold was full of slime though. Good effort Jasper.

[travs]

Nice one Jasper, I think 7c is spot on the money for The Pinch especially if you're going to give Hulk 7c+ and this is definitely a good grade harder. My understanding was that The Pinch sitter was 7c+ it certainly feels it. I know it looks like it doesn't add a lot but its something about being hugged into the rock at the start rather than swinging up off a big thick mat. Is this next on your ever decreasing tick list?

[Jaspersharpe]

Thinking about it I can see what you mean Neil. I did have to try quite hard so adding moves in is going to make the sitter trickier! I'll certainly have a bash. The ticklist never decreases by the way. 

The way I did it was pull on with the two crimps RF on edge below the big ledges LF in the slot, sort of pulling sideways. LH to the pinch, RH to the pinchy ear thing. Move RF up to good ledge, RH to higher pinchy thing LF up on something good, LH to the jug etc. To me this was ok for 7C. As I say, if there's an approved sequence that's harder then maybe that's where 7C+ comes in?

[travs]

I'm pretty cetain that's the way everyone does it except for Ben who showed me his sequence which involved right hand on crimp, right foot on said blocky edge. Then jump from the ground straight to the pinch with left hand. I tried this and even though it seems crazy to start with it does actually work, but still 7c.

[nik at work]

Nice one Jaspeer.
Another oldie comes good (or least slightly above average, well OK pretty average but these youngsters have the advantage of modern training walls etc etc etc ).
Keep the crush going. My new focus is an 8a in Font on my trip there next Easter (although I'd like to do an 8a over here before going). There I've said it out loud....

[GCW]

You've gone and done it now.  You have targets to meet.

[i.munro]

Can I add my congratulations to the chorus (from between gritted teeth)

[r-man]

Good stuff! This thread makes me want to climb NOW!

[Jaspersharpe]

Keep the crush going. My new focus is an 8a in Font on my trip there next Easter (although I'd like to do an 8a over here before going). There I've said it out loud....

Neck well and truly stuck out! Best of luck with that.

For me 8A in Font is the Holy Grail. I'm sure I can get there if I could just commit myself to actually doing some proper training (and drink a little less booze perhaps). However having done neither so far I'm not putting a time goal on it as two hours of bumbling about twice a week is not going to get me to 8A strength.

[i.munro]

two hours of bumbling about twice a week is not going to get me to 8A strength.

It seems to have got you to 7c strength. (even more tightly gritted teeth)

[slackline]

Yeah, whats your usual tipple Jasper?  Might try some and see if it improves my grade (unlikely, but you never know) 

[Jaspersharpe]

Cristal, what else?

[Will Hunt]

Did Archangel yesterday.
Incredibly YYFY when I reached the break. It just felt so full on, the boldest, wildest, most uncompromising thing I've ever done. The moves may only be 5b and on a top rope would be simple but its sustained I think and the way you're in a layback position above a bad landing means falling is unthinkable. I needed to chalk my right hand but couldn't get it off the rock long enough. Every move was just desperately small, I wanted to get to the gear as fast as possible but the longer you make the moves the less in balance it feels so I had to keep inching up agonisingly slowly. And as for comparing it to Crescent Arete - its so different. The arete on Archangel is a much better hold but unlike Crescent there is NOTHING else but the arete. And none of the foot movements were in control. It was just a series of small stabs onto the arete. Foot slipped and skidded near the top and I nearly shat but when I got to the break and put in the Friend I broke down into uncontrollable laughter. It was so at my limit and I didnt know I was going to make it until I finally did.

Sorry for the self indulgent post but I had to share it. Although it can't have taken me more than one or two minutes to reach the break I can definitely say that that brief time was the most intense of my life.

Cheers
 

[andy popp]

Good effort Will. No need to apologise, I think doing Archangel for the first time is almost always a pretty unique, full-on experience.

[Houdini]

I'm sure I can get there ... (and drink a little less booze perhaps)

You think drinking less ever helped Chris Davies?

You need some meat on your bones 

[Falling Down]

Did Archangel yesterday.

Sorry for the self indulgent post but I had to share it. Although it can't have taken me more than one or two minutes to reach the break I can definitely say that that brief time was the most intense of my life.

Cheers
 

Nice one Will. Was that yesterday afternoon about 1:00pm?. Did you have a black/red fleece and grey helmet on? I was watching you with some mates and gave you a round of applause when you got the break.

nice one!

[Johnny Brown]

That's a red letter day for anyone. Good effort.