[teestub]

How come you kept on falling off the easy bit? 

[measles23]

Next time you might listen when I try to save you 2 years of your life

Very well done dude now you can finally allow yourself to get on some hard stuff...  ffs you were close to flashing the crux, you and your “weak” shoulders

[Kingy]

  Nice one Murph, that's a tricky start! glad to hear you got it bagged

[Murph]

Thanks Ted - your vid of it last year helped keep the psyche fuelled!

Matt - that flash attempt was on what turned out to be the greatest day of my climbing life. Swing time in two goes and Man of Steel in four including a static (and unrepeated!) flash of the top move. I swear if I had had the AT numbers on that day I would have done it. 

I’ll get back in shape now (fingers still way down - hence why even the crux was a problem) and join you on something that’s actually hard soon!

Teestub - I am a full weight punter, that’s why!!! 😄

Anyone know if there’s footage of Mike’s Problem, just to the right of AT?

[tomtom]

Nice one Murph!

[Yossarian]

Bravo! Quite syked by this video. I know nothing about this venue other than the info on UKC. Is there anything that an optimistic southern punter should aim at in the 6C-7A range? And which guidebook, etc? Might be passing by in a couple of weeks time.

[Murph]

Hi Yossarian, glad you liked.

There’s very little at beginners wall at that grade. There’s a 7A called Short Problem or something else (also put a vid of that on Vimeo) but it really isn’t 7A or and good. Though there are a couple of other 7As at beginners ive never tried them despite having been there dozens of times. Nothing worth doing below that. Swing Time 7A+ and Man of Steel 7B are really good problems though and soft I reckon so might be worth trying.

Over the road at Griffs there are a few things below 6C but they aren’t quality. Everything else there is 7B and upwards.

Up the road at Sean’s Roof area there’s nothing below 7A+ that’s worth doing. There’s the odd stand finish to what is really a sit start problem (eg Red or Dead) but the easiest decent problem, going by grade, is Jerrys Traverse which I reckon is brick hard and I couldn’t work out that time I tried.

You’re not far from Raven Tor though and there’s loads in that range and lots of it good. The warm ups on Pinches Wall are tough as nails after 6B, though there are quite a few 7As some more doable and worthwhile than others. Wild in Me Start is overgraded at 6C and not great, but Too Hard For Mark Leach at the same grade is good fun. Bashers Problem 7A is good fun as is Saline Drip (easier for the tall) and you really ought to do the sit when you tick the stand. Watch a video first though cos it’s not in any guidebook. Little Extra Direct Start is a gift at 7A so you should get that while you are there.

I’d i was in the area though at that grade I would go to Rubicon. There’s loads of good problems in the mid 6s range around the three tiers, Miller’s Tale stand is as classic as lime 6B can get and the sit is worthwhile. A Bigger Tail gets 7A I think and is as good as any problem anywhere. Two mats and/or a spot for that one tho. It’s high but the last hold is a jug.

The best guidebook is the one by Ru and co, cos it’s got the Pinches and Minus 10 problems, but it doesn’t have Griffs or Conies (not that we need that any more).

Hope this is of some use. Enjoy.

[tomtom]

Had a play on advanced training today Murph - inspired by your film

Managed to get up to where the high right foot (about 3 moves?) then ran out of ideas - felt hard to press off the LH and move up with the RH..

Also completely forgot and couldn’t work out how to sort out my hands on on swing time or MOS. you know the hold you mess about on with the left heel just after the start - Just couldn’t get a sweet/right spot on the hold

[Bradders]

Get in Murph, really inspiring 

[Murph]

Thanks Bradders!

Tom - glad to hear it’s inspired man. That next move is the crux. I think the way I do it is easier than any of the other ways I’ve hear (and there some really weird ways it used to be done when it was 8A). Just give it hell and practice the top. Lots. 

Good luck!

[highrepute]

Advanced Training. Finally. 

I fell off the last move 6 times or so back in 2016. Didn't get on it at all last year not that I didn't want to. This year's attempts were barely getting off the ground until Si showed me the secret foot beta that Matt had already shown me back in the day

I know its only a bit of rock but fuck me I felt quite emotional at the end. Cool problem I reckon. Should get more attention.

Actual send is at 1:40. Apols for the potty language.

Nice one. Good effort sticking at it.  Move on to the next or retire happy.

[Yossarian]

Hope this is of some use. Enjoy.

Wow - that’s brilliant! Thanks

[Sasquatch]

So stoked - knocked out a new 8b/+ route FA.  My big goal this year was to put up 5 new 8th grade routes here in Alaska, and I've now done three -  an 8b, 8a, and 8b/+.  Two to go and currently 5 potential projects.  One should go pretty quickly(8a/+ish), but the others are all pretty desperate with two in the 8b+/8c range, and two in the 8c+/9a range.

[36chambers]

So stoked - knocked out a new 8b/+ route FA.  My big goal this year was to put up 5 new 8th grade routes here in Alaska, and I've now done three -  an 8b, 8a, and 8b/+.  Two to go and currently 5 potential projects.  One should go pretty quickly(8a/+ish), but the others are all pretty desperate with two in the 8b+/8c range, and two in the 8c+/9a range.

Good work

[duncan]

I went climbing! After more than three months off it was well overdue.

Naga (Dragon), generously given 6b+, 8 pitches, is a recent addition to the south Dragon’s Horn on Tioman Island. You get 250m of off-vertical face climbing on solid, knobbly, and mostly clean granite. Exceptions were the first and last pitches which were more in keeping with the jungle setting. It would be a five star classic 5.10 with queues if it was at Red Rocks.

Wouldn’t want to do the two hour (taken slowly) trek to the base of the routes too often. Loved the jungle flora,  fauna and ambience.

Would have liked to do the Petit route Damai Sentosa, but run-out 6c+ (good E4 according to the very able  Patrick Hill) with no mountain rescue felt a bit of an ask.

I’ll do a Tioman Dragon’s Horns rough guide at some point.

[Wood FT]

I went climbing! After more than three months off it was well overdue.

Naga (Dragon), generously given 6b+, 8 pitches, is a recent addition to the south Dragon’s Horn on Tioman Island. You get 250m of off-vertical face climbing on solid, knobbly, and mostly clean granite. Exceptions were the first and last pitches which were more in keeping with the jungle setting. It would be a five star classic 5.10 with queues if it was at Red Rocks.

Wouldn’t want to do the two hour (taken slowly) trek to the base of the routes too often. Loved the jungle flora,  fauna and ambience.

Would have liked to do the Petit route Damai Sentosa, but run-out 6c+ (good E4 according to the very able  Patrick Hill) with no mountain rescue felt a bit of an ask.

I’ll do a Tioman Dragon’s Horns rough guide at some point.

I really wanted to climb here after the Hill brothers infected the psyche and sent details when I said we'd be travelling nearby. Glad it's as good as it sounds. What a way to return to climbing, Duncan.

[Fiend]

Psyched for you duncan, glad you got something cool done

[James Malloch]

After injuring my knee about 3 years ago I've taken my Physio my seriously this year. I managed to complete my longest run since injuring it on Tuesday.

Nothing amazing at 4.5 miles @ 8m 30s per mile pace, which is at least a minute or so off my old pace, but I'm well chuffed right now!

Also managed a 21:39 Park Run last week which really surprised me given the lack of cardio exercise I've done.

Now I need to think about how I can balance my desire to do more with not overdoing it as I've still got some niggles going on. Would be amazing to get back up to my old fitness level!

[SA Chris]

Good work. Build up slowly, keep up the strengthening exercises and concentrate on good technique. I'd recommend getting running analysis done, to see if you are doing anything wrong which may have caused it in the first place.

[duncan]

What a way to return to climbing, Duncan.

Thanks both. Shoulder is still 30 degrees short of full range and a little painful, so out of the jungle but not out of the woods. Easy Trad.^TM like this is my best physical and mental rehab. Need to do more.

[tomtom]

Finally got Griffs into Bovine done today



 & Nearly dropped the last move.... sometimes they're the best ones #skinofmyteeth

Thanks for help/encouragement/beta from those at Griffs over the past few weeks..

[andy popp]

Nice one Tom!

[Oldmanmatt]

Seriously Tom, you’re pissing me right off now.
You seem to improve on a weekly basis, whilst I slide into “Trad Dad”...

Congratulations, you utter, utter Bar-steward. 😜

[tomtom]

Glacial progress..... with the odd retreat

[Oldmanmatt]

Glacial progress..... with the odd retreat

Oh yeah.
Just like the Quarternary...