[Monolith]

I've rested mine since tuesday last week and feeling no real improvement just yet despite icing and what not. Also a bit worryingly is that if I 'test crimp' I can feel like a sort of electric sensation through my finger radiating from the injured area. Is that a common sensation with a partial tear or strain?

[a dense loner]

finger injuries are a common sensation with newly built boards. take heed jim

[unclesomebody]

are there any holds small enough to cause "finger" injuries?

[Jim]

There are holds so small it would blow your mind if only there was a microscope powerfull enough for you to see them.

Image an electron orbiting around a nucleus that was only there for 1/16 of a second - That would be a jug in comparison

[Nibile]

bloody bivi ledge!

[jimacp]

Paul,  i had an injury with similar symptoms, i.e. ache after climbing on the side of my finger roughly in the position of the A2 pulley. I realise you have a diagnosis now but might be useful for other to share my experience.

I felt a dull ache and stiffness in my finger after climbing, particularly when trying to close the finger.  No significant pain when hanging on the finger in either crimp or open handed.  Presumed it was an A2 tear at first but later physio diagnosed as a strain of the collateral ligament.  Generally this can be differentiated from an A2 as a pulley injury will hurt while crimping but a collateral will instead hurt when the finger is flexed out of plane, especially when flexed with the knuckles slightly bent.

Physio recommended that i continue climbing, though sticking to more juggy routes.  After some time i realised this was preventing recovery and since stopping climbing i have felt a steady (but slow) improvement.  Buddy taping two fingers together was effective at first to bring the swelling down but has offered no benefit when climbing.

Unfortunately because the finger doesn't hurt while climbing it is easy to go overboard when returning. It's taken me a while to accept that i need to take a few weeks off to properly deal with the problem,.

Hope yours heals up swiftly, let us know when you are able to get back.

[Paul B]

thanks for the input and sorry to hear about your injury.

Thankfully mine seems to be improving, as I was told the deep friction massage has got less and less painful each time i've done it. Tonight I had a board session (not an easy one either), and my finger feels fine, no swelling at all. I was taped (I had to re-tighten mid session) and it will remain taped for a while to come. Things are going in the right direction and it doesn't seem to be holding me back, fingers crossed for further improvement.

[GCW]

and it will remain taped for a while to come.

Another issue.  How long to continue with taping post injury?  There is evidence that would suggest over 6 weeks makes no difference.  I used to inhabit the "protect it" school of thought, but now I think after healing the fingers should be left untaped*.
I am concerned about putting stress through a digit that is no longer used to taking stress without tape.

*  Unless for a very specific reason.

Thoughts?
P.S.  Glad it's getting better Paul.

[Paul B]

I've never really been a fan of tape because with the A2 injuries that i've had taping seemed to be a way of ignoring what I really needed to do: e.g. rest a bit then take it really easy, on the easy comebacks tape would just lead me to falsely push too early so I stopped using it.
In answer to your question I havent a clue, at a guess i'd say the injury would need to be almost totally recovered. Surely if after 6 weeks it makes no difference, 6 weeks cant do any harm (or am I missing the point?).

[GCW]

I think my point was that we tend to tape to hide a problem, so (in general) we sould rest instead.  Although, some people become addicts.  Paying 25 quid for 6" of Strappal on some street corner is no good.  Especially when you realise it's only Sellotape painted with Tippex.   

I can't see an advantage in taping past 6 weeks though.