[account_inactive]

Went to look at this yesterday and was a bit confused at where the line went.  Does the guide have this and the 7a the wrong was again? Shirley not!

Does anyone also have any beta apart from not turning up when there are 1 million midges

[dave]

we're talking gardoms right? i understand judge philip banks has done either or fewer of these problems, he'll probably see this thread.

[Nigel]

I did both of these ages ago so apologies if my info is sketchy......I don't have a copy of the guide so I can't tell you if they're labelled wrong, but the 7a is on the left and goes direct-ish up. Good problem and good value, 7a seems right.

Heartland starts on the right on some big flake or something under the roof, from here you lean back to holds on the lip then slap along the arete trending a bit left to finish. You can tell the lip holds you're aiming for because there's some kind of seam running down here with ever such a slight dish in it. I coincidentally saw Klemmow at the crag the day I did it, he said he used this dish and pulled through. As I recall I skipped it to get a big fat handful of slopey nothing above. Either way an ankle wierdness heel-toe in the start hold will be your friend. As will snow on't moors! Its a decent problem, though not as good as Mark's Roof Direct if you like this sort of thing.

Incidentally, I just remembered I did a fun eliminate problem, which I suppose you could think of as a "Direct Mark's Roof". Basically you start on a slopey shelf just right of Mark's Left Hand start, then use crimps in the roof (not the sidepulls on MLH though) to a blind jump and wild swing onto the jug on the lip, then finish as for Mark's Roof. The aforementioned Judge was in attendance. Not really worth recording but good sport.

[Andy B]

I haven't done or tried either Heartland or the left hand line but I do know that they have their left and right mixed up in the guide. this is obvious when you look at their descriptions which fit. The Heartland description mentions the flared finerlock thing, and this is obvious on the right hand line.

I have a vague memory of the middle thing Nige mentions, although I thought that I did it, did I just do the move rather than the full problem Nige?

[Nigel]

You didn't do it although you had a few good goes. If I remember correctly you didn't try it that much cos you were battling with Mark's Direct and its cheeky ssschlopes.

[account_inactive]

Cool.  I wasn't sure as I was being bitten to death and my mondo pad nearly dragged me into the quarry 

I also realised that Mark's Direct is not the same as the problem that I claimed (sorry Ru).  My problem climbs the right hand edge of the roof to the rail and then uses a hold just above the fallen boulder and then straight up.  Much easier than 7c but worth a gander if you are in the area

[Jim]

Is this the boulder past soft on t'G and before you go into poggles wood?
had a look at this last year and was as green as mary jane.
I seem to remember it looking hard and not too obvious which line goes where

[ferret]

my sequence differs slightly

start flakey thing, LF heel/toe,   LH poor sloper (barely visible without chalk) holding it slightly sideways, Rh to seam (went kinda static wen i did it) so yor in a 2 sidepull compression position (no suprises there hey nigel), slap RH again to shelf, trend leftwards up shelf to top etc. pls remember i hav stumps for arms so this may not be the easiest way!!

[account_inactive]

That sounds more like my type of sequence!  The sloper had chalk on it, but did look shit.  I assume you can get a fair amount out of the heel/toe to go static

[ferret]

yeah its totally locked in, i remember wen i hit the shelf it came out and i had to pick feat up pretty sharpish.

was RF in heeltoe not left btw oops

[Dolly]

Sorry if I'm being dim here but I don't understand all that young people's language about 2 sidepull compression position.
A few of us tried it last night but got nowhere.

As I understand it.
RH in the big pocket thing, RF heel further down the flake.
LH on sloper.
RH over to pinch the hold above the sloper
Fall off as all the other holds seem too far away and you can't get take your RF off the flake

Any help appreciated

Has anyone else done it by throwing wildly out left - seems to be a lot of chalk on those holds ?

[Simon W]

Had a go on this yesterday, the left hand problem now know as Kidneystone that is.  I used a left toe hook by my right heel toe to stop the swing after gaining the crimps, with that tucked in I could take my heel toe out and reach the decent hold out left, only 5,8 myself so might work for you.  Then put a right toe hook into the starting jug to hold the swing when releasing the left toe.  Was too knackered by this point to mount the bulge but cool problem!  Reckon Heartland needs a bit of snow on the ground to go down!

[Dolly]

Cheers for that.
Will give it a go like that next time Im there