[AndiT]

Katzs' The Young Pretender has been climbed.  V8.

Whodunnit?

[Houdini]

Grimer mentioned it had been climbed, here, different thread, some time ago.  Great line - fucking atrocious name, even by Marks' standards.

[grimer]

No. What I heard was what Nik had said, that Tom dG was about to do it when Dan cracked himself on llel Lines. But Tom has seen all this, can't remember what he said.

And years ago before I met Mark, one of the Staffs crew was dissing The Young Pretender by saying Mark hadn't actually climbed it, and I thought, Hmmm, I wonder is that what the name means, whereby Gary was the Old Pretender?

[Houdini]

One of the Staffs crew is a fool.  Can you seriously imagine katz even needing to lie about what he's scratched up? 


Glitter?

[Pantontino]

Katz may have stood on the odd milk crate in his time, but he is no bullshitter. Who was doing the bitching?

[grimer]

Oh, that's obvious, I know that. And this was absolutely years ago. I can't remember, I think it was Dougie. It wasn't intended to besmirch his reputation, just the funny thought I had whan I thought about his name for the route.

[Neil F]

I remember walking up for a look at YP after Mark sent me the description with it's big (for the time, and for Mark) numbers.

I hadn't been to that buttress before, and frankly I was a bit underwhelmed by the line, because it was so small and I had imagined when I first read Mark's letter that he had dispatched the arete of the huge slipped buttress up above.  (I now realise this will be much harder than E8!!).

But the YP was certainly clean, and chalked, and when I tried (failed) to pull on, it was also quite obviously nails.

I had, and have, no reason whatsoever to doubt that Mark did this.

Neil

[grimer]

oh dear. I just want to point out that in no way was I trying to suggest he hadn't. I think, as Neil mentions, there was confusion over which overhanging arete it was. My post was probably ill-considered as it could be seen like that, and I apologise if that's how it came across. The point of the post was my amusement at the name and reading too much into it.

[AndiT]

Oh dear, what a pickle.

One of the Staffs crew is a fool.  Can you seriously imagine katz even needing to lie about what he's scratched up? 

Katzs' The Young Pretender has been climbed.  V8.

An unrepeated E8 downgraded to V8? That's a foolish thing to say, when you haven't done it or indeed appear to know anyone who's done it.

There was confusion for a long time over which arete had been climbed. Critchlow, not renowned for his memory, had said that Mark Katz had explained to him that his route was the one on the fallen block, some time later it appeared that the story had changed and the route was indeed on the lower section up a much smaller prow. Indeed if you check the Grit List, to this day the mistaken identity is still outlined. I always doubted the fallen block claim, I have no reason to doubt the real line, although it is desperate, indeed from an ab, I couldn't hold a position on the arete, let alone make movement up it.

[Houdini]

Yeah I'm confused too.  It's gone all "Katz hasn't done this or that" which is rubbish.  I thought it had been bouldered-out @ V8.  If it hasn't - fuck it.
 

[a dense loner]

ha ha look what you've done grimer

if it's only a small E8 with a bad landing it could most certainly get done at 7b+ with enough pads and spotters. thinking of the screaming dream type stuff here. if any of you think that's nonsense i suggest you go to rocher greau, and climb on the old stuff

[grimer]

No it hasn't, Houdini. I explained that, one, that the error came from confusion over where the line was, and two, that I had made the post based on my amusement at the name of the line, not to have a go at Mark, and three, that it had been an error on my behalf for posting what could have been interpited that way. So, if you want to make out that it's something that it's not, then, in your own words, fuck it.

[cowboyhat]

I always thought that the arete on the fallen block by the wall had been claimed. This is confusing.

[Paul B]

If it's only a small E8 with a bad landing it could most certainly get done at 7b+ with enough pads and spotters. thinking of the screaming dream type stuff here. if any of you think that's nonsense i suggest you go to rocher greau, and climb on the old stuff

  (Shit maybe we ARE in some kind of clique)

[unclesomebody]

I always thought that the arete on the fallen block by the wall had been claimed. This is confusing.

me too. In fact, I seem to recall I was up there James, AndiT and Mark to try that overhanging arete. I was amazed it had been done actually...

[AndiT]

I always thought that the arete on the fallen block by the wall had been claimed. This is confusing.

That's because for a long time 'The Young Pretender' was that fallen block, even on the grit list, everyone believed it to be the one! E8 - 6c - Overhanging Arete - Hen Cloud - Must be! We were then un-awed when the word on the street changed and it was now that little arete, down in the bracken. Still absolutley nails though.

The big steep unclimbed arete has apparently been top roped by Ollie Ryal, but this is down the grape vine stuff, it is very steep, holdless and blunt.

[grimer]

And the worry about grapevine stuff is that Justin might have been involved at some point along the line 

[Idol eyes]

You can not even Ab down the hanging arete on the fallen block, an try the moves...

[AndiT]

And the worry about grapevine stuff is that Justin might have been involved at some point along the line 

Worry, you mean beauty! 

Pat, you need to fix a rope down the line and then use this to hold you in place, it's then possible to try it, good luck!

[grimer]

Pat you could work it from the bottom, attached to some sort of chimney-sweep's-brushshaft style system pushing you rigidly upwards.

Ah yes, I do love the Chritchlow Information Scrambler

"The sit start to that is awesome, 7a i reckon, about V9."

Guide gets published.

"When did you do that sit start Justin."

"Eee, I aven't, but I were up there wi'th dog the other day and I reckon it'll go that."

[AndiT]

Or even more typically "Eeeh, what problem is that then? Sounds good!"

[Jim]

How about Westie's appointment with death?
Worm reminded me about this today as the reason hes not thrown away his sam-me-down chalk bag

[cofe]

mother of pearl

[a dense loner]

mother of fucking pearl. let's have dr. doowank while we're at it then

[Sloper]

In sloper world this whole lot makes not sense whatsoever.

PS I did all the projects at cru bourgeois