[Idol eyes]

Nah, I just did a variation on top rope,,, C.R. is fucking orrible, JD had a straw bed as an improvement to the landing, not often you end up straightening out an 80's Dawes route that he had worried about the landing! The lower ramp is fantastic 5C climbing.

[Idol eyes]

Plus, it is totally Desmond...

[Jim]

I think the real question is how badly do you want the history or guide books to reflect the truth?
I'm with Pat on this one

[dave]

I thought Pat had done Charlotte Rampling? Leo's Belayer and the Show Pony tried it last year/season but I think all backed off.

aye, and zaf(f). it fucking needs some direct finish or other, that would be monster.

[andy popp]

I believe Toby benham did Grey Area, not sure about Drummond Base.  He possibly did this as well.  Nige'l know.

Back on Curbar, I'd completely forgotten a route I did left of Avalanche Wall (shown as line of Portrait of Legend in the last guide but this is actually further left) Anyone done this, its a good route. Messrs Craine and Grimes were the back up. In the vicinity, Slab and Crack has obviously been repeated, but does it get done much traffic nowadays, back in the 90s it was notably neglected compared to Gaia, EOTA etc., considering its brilliant.

[grimer]

Yes, but isn't Slab and Crack hard?

I remember watching you do that route, Andy. I was with my mate Richard Harland. He was one of those sort of people who would bring a Trangia and tea bags to the crag. And that's exactly what he did. He and I were underneath Avalanche Wall making cups of tea, that lovely warm meths smell and steam filling the cold morning air.

[andy popp]

I remember the day well too: beautiful and very cold with the crag deserted. You and Noel did Moonshine. Yes, Slab and Crack is hard.

[a dense loner]

ah, halcyon days

[andy popp]

Yeah, apologies for the nostalgia overdose there. It comes with the territory when you're my age.

[Jaspersharpe]

Surprised you can remember anything what with grimer putting meths in your tea.

[andy popp]

Luckily I don't drink tea. However my memory may have been affected by other things ingested.

[soapy]

d'you remember gary gibson doing any new routes..?

[andy popp]

In fact, yes. I even followed a few.

[Houdini]

Gibson is obviously a geezer:  The Stranglers are his fave band.  Obviously.

[Joe Brown]

Andy, did Arlie do that thing of yours next to Avalanche Wall? I can kind of remember talking to her about it years ago. Is the gear any good? Safe and hard?

[andy popp]

Andy, did Arlie do that thing of yours next to Avalanche Wall? I can kind of remember talking to her about it years ago. Is the gear any good? Safe and hard?

That's right, it was Airlie's project but I nicked it, without permission I'm afraid. Don't think she ever did it subsequently. There's an easy start up a thin crack to a strange wavy shaped break - good gear here if a bit awkward cause of the unusual formation of the break (this is the last gear). Then hard crimpy moves up the wall to a bit of a run out up a thin left-facing flake to a slightly Gogarth top out over the biscuity capping block. Million Dollar Bash, E6 6b and prob **

[Idol eyes]

 

aye, and zaf(f). it fucking needs some direct finish or other, that would be monster.
[/quote]

Top Rope 7A ***

[Joe Brown]

Sounds good, might sandbag Tetler in to soloing it on-sight first for the knowledge. Incidentally, it being a Friday afternoon, and with the weekend coming up and all that, I would just like to say that, Andy Popp, you are mighty in my book. There, some love spread. I feel wonderful now. C'mon Dense, give us a kiss x

[Idol eyes]

There is also the little wall at the 2 Pny loaf or whatever it is. Wonder if that has seen a repeat? I gave it ard 6C, even though it looks only 5C, the guide book writers gave it "V5 for pat, V9 for anyone else", took it as a compliment.... I think!

[luckyjez]

I had the pleasure of holding Andy's rope on Slab and Crack which included the wonderful moment when he fully barndoored on the last move and just held it (it was probably deliberate!). I also toproped it when he was tying it and can confirm that the 'crack' bit is very hard; a great sequence that requires both finesse and power.

[andy popp]

Aw, shucks Joe (and Jez).

[Houdini]

I had the pleasure of holding Andy's rope on Slab and Crack...    ...a great sequence that requires both finesse and power.

See!  A beast in disguise!

[Jaspersharpe]

This surely proves that Heason is full of shit (allegedly). He's claimed an onsight of Paralogism 13 years in the future! Finally the "evidence" everyone was looking for.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=20106

[El Mocho]

Or similar,,,
Warm Love?
Dana Awen???
There was a similar thread, ages ago... it was really good and we tryed to keep it to the Grit, this one should be more open to other routes, globaly.
Indian Face O,S? If non head point  ethic were inforced, lets say after the first 3 ascents, would this get repeated, or would there be an extra carrige on the Snowndon Express for victims!!!

Hey Idol,

Did Warm Love on mon (not ground up though absailed it first); conditions were mint on the block and I managed to static the 'dyno to a toe hook on a pebble' move.

Now just got Happy Amongst Friends to do, has this been repeated? I have had quite a few sessions trying - had both hands in the top break but there are no holds!

[Houdini]

Any photies , Elmo?